I mostly fit danfoss valves, often find it easier to put some stubs on the valve before fitting where access isn't good in its correct position.
i just soldered a txv into a new evaporator, theres a ton of room in the evaporator
but the txv seem to have as short a connection as they can make...
I mostly fit danfoss valves, often find it easier to put some stubs on the valve before fitting where access isn't good in its correct position.
i installed a danfoss the other day, i went to set the superheat and was suprised the adjustment was on the side...do u use regular silver solder on those??
I find using flux and a little 15% does wonders on those. I don't like how they are so close to to the body makes me nervous installing them. doing all that work just to find that you burned it up installing it..
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LOL.. Yep don't ever try to unscrew the bottom to adjust it you'll be in for a surprise.
As far as short connections on the valves, I'm guess its a cost thing. I just try to burn it in real quick with little 1/2" or so strip of wet rag wrapped around it. With the danfoss valves you heat the pipe mostly then just touch the fitting when the pipe is hot enough.
I get more pissed at the short connections on filter driers then txvs. Got to love the smell of burning paint.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DJisZBjRt5M
Danfoss brazing video.
These are the sort of valves we get here, (this is on a bulk milk cooler)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5C4LqDADNA
I wrap the valve in a wet rag and have a pepper pot burner on the oxy acetylene torch. I use 15% silver rods and no flux as the rods are self fluxing on copper and copper plated fitting.
I'd want to see that Danfoss valve in use after that. Not just pipes in a lab.
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2 Tim 3:16-17
RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist
Member, IAEI
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The more we burn up the more they sell us.
changed a lot of danfosses on Manitowoc ice machines, put a wet rag on them and they're fine, those are all Danfoss TUC series valves
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