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Thread: I Had Contractor Visit Today
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10-08-2012, 08:45 PM #53
You have two manual J's done. One is for a 2-Ton & the other for 2.2 Ton. The 2.2 bumped it up to 2.5. What is the temp (high) that this MJ was based on? How many days out of the year will you hit that temp? How many coolings days/hours do you have where your home is?
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10-08-2012, 11:19 PM #54
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10-08-2012, 11:33 PM #55
Are you sure the stat is accurate? I find 78 at 40 rh is comfortable if I'm inactive, and I need 75 if rh goes above 45%. Above 50% rh, pretty hard to get comfortable without feeling clammy. You definitely want to build an understanding of how RH factors into your comfort requirements.
I've found weight can impact tstat settings. As peoples % body fat levels increase their comfortable temperatures decreases, so things start to get delicate here, but you don't want to dismiss someone's stated setting without being cognizant of this important variable.Which makes more sense to you?
CONSERVATION - turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10%
ENERGY EFFICIENCY - leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%
DO THE NUMBERS! Step on a HOMESCALE.
What is comfort? Well, it AIN'T just TEMPERATURE!
Energy Obese? An audit is the next step - go to BPI.org, or RESNET, and find an auditor near you.
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10-09-2012, 05:16 AM #56
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Designer Dan
It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with "Some Art".

Define the Building Envelope and Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows and Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities
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10-09-2012, 05:44 AM #57
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Dry Bulb 68'F
Wet Bulb 58'F
Dew Point 51'F
Humidity 55%
which is good performance from DX system in most of the U.S. at less than 3,000 foot elevation
would probbly be considered clammy by most people.
I would Not refer to this condition (> 42%) as Low Humidity.
I don't know of any normally used residential equipment that actually achieves <43% at 68'F.Last edited by dan sw fl; 10-09-2012 at 06:07 AM.
Designer Dan
It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with "Some Art".

Define the Building Envelope and Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows and Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities
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10-09-2012, 09:02 AM #58
+1. At our house, dewpoints are under 50F all summer, so 73-75 iis very comfortable. Downstairs dewpoints are in the low 40's so 77F feels comfortable. However, when I go to my parents house wiht their oversized AC (2.5tons on a 1400sqft 2 story townshouse with 2 shared walls in Michigan (probably needs 1.5 tons based on run times alone) the humidity is over 55% and it needs ot be 69-70F ot be comfortable.
Sorry, but 68F is either clammy if RH is over 50%, or cool if it's <50%. 68F is my winter setting in my home.
WHat I find funny, is that some people will keep it 69F in summer and 71F in winter. Now there is a clear sign that humidity is not being managed. Heck, I had a roomate that wanted 70F in summer but I came home ot hte huse at 76F in winter.... and the dumba** is in shorts and a T-shirt.
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10-09-2012, 09:17 AM #59
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10-09-2012, 09:24 PM #60
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10-10-2012, 11:28 PM #61
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Hey guys, if I decide to go with the Trane XR15 and the Trane XV95 - Is there a certain Trane thermostat I should make sure they install?
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10-11-2012, 10:20 AM #62
Acculink.
Which makes more sense to you?
CONSERVATION - turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10%
ENERGY EFFICIENCY - leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%
DO THE NUMBERS! Step on a HOMESCALE.
What is comfort? Well, it AIN'T just TEMPERATURE!
Energy Obese? An audit is the next step - go to BPI.org, or RESNET, and find an auditor near you.


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