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Thread: pulling a vacuum
10-20-2006, 02:37 PM #14Professional Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2004
(tongue in cheek). I don't know why you guys watch the gauge for pulling a vacuum. You know you should be watching the time instead, you know it takes about 30 min to an hour for a good vacuum.... Now how bout that for hackery. LOL. I worked for a shop once when I told a few guys I had purchased a new micron gauge I was laughed at and told why would you need that. I was speechless.Saddle Up!
10-20-2006, 03:52 PM #15
i got that from the last company i worked for both bosses (father and son) said i was wasting my money and they dont help one little bit
once i used one i have never gone back
i also have a competitor i help out from time to time that thinks they are a waste of time and money
10-20-2006, 06:02 PM #16Originally posted by -80guru
(tongue in cheek). I don't know why you guys watch the gauge for pulling a vacuum. You know you should be watching the time instead, you know it takes about 30 min to an hour for a good vacuum.... Now how bout that for hackery. LOL. I worked for a shop once when I told a few guys I had purchased a new micron gauge I was laughed at and told why would you need that. I was speechless."If you can't fix it, don't break it."
10-20-2006, 10:20 PM #17
My evac rig with a Yellow Jacket 69075 micron gauge.
The picture is old, I use C&D core removers now because I had problems with the seals in the Yellow Jacket ones.
I also have a ball valve to blank off the sensor now.
That 296 micron vacuum is on a system that was badly contaminated with moisture and non condensables. It took about 15 minutes to get that after sweeping the system with nitrogen.
I routinly get down to around 100 microns on new systems where I am evacuating just the coil and new refrigerant lines that don't have any oil in them.
[Edited by mark beiser on 10-20-2006 at 10:24 PM]If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.
10-21-2006, 08:37 PM #18
Many times I have to leave my vac and gauges on overnight to get a wet system down.
Since the hacks like the 15 or 30 minute rule or when it says 29", here how I explain to them or anybody else.
If you have a 1 quart pan of water on the stove and you "can't see" the water inside, but you can see that it is boiling how do you know how full it still is?
Then I see the light bulb click on and the start to understand why to use a micron gauge.
10-21-2006, 08:41 PM #19
looking to buy a micron gauge. seen this one on this website. It's from TPI 605 digital micron gauge. Has anybody heard anything good or bad about this product, it cost is $90. This is the web address, hope it works.
10-22-2006, 11:59 AM #20Professional Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2003
- Western, NY
I always use a micron gauge, down to 500 microns or less. It's just the way I was taught, and it's good service practice I believe.
10-24-2006, 09:28 PM #21
I couldn't agree more alpha."If you can't fix it, don't break it."
10-24-2006, 09:59 PM #22Professional Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2006
- Middle Tennessee
I've only used the Yellow Jacket SuperEvacIII and it worked flawlessly.
After following several threads here it was aparent that nobody upgrades to something better after they use the 60975, although some have had trouble with the core removing valves.
02-21-2007, 12:09 PM #23Professional Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2004
- Nova Scotia, Canada
02-21-2007, 08:44 PM #24Professional Member
Originally Posted by ;1256224
- Join Date
- Jan 2005
- Veterans Home Yaphank, NY
Open high side handle on gauge manifold, vacuum pump handle, start pump.
Observe low side gauge to see if it goes into vacuum, if it does continue to pull down to 15" hg, then open high side handwheel. If you do not see low side going into vacuum, then you have a restriction. Continue evacuation to 500 microns(250 on Manitowac Ice machines),close hand wheels on manifold and observe micron gauge. Rapid rise=leak, slow rise=moisture. No rise after 15 minutes= URgoodRAM Teaching Tomorrows Technicians Today.
02-21-2007, 08:56 PM #25Originally Posted by ;1256302
And I will have to say has made me a ton of money
I find more leaky evaps this way then any other.
If I cant get 500 there is a leak and I find itI remember my first day,It was fun!
02-22-2007, 08:30 PM #26
I use the same setup that Mark does. With the ball valve at the sensor and stainless hoses.
Mark, without the ball valve between the sensor (in the picture), did you still open the valves or add refrigerant to the system with the sensor on the port?
I also have the same problem with the o-ring in one of their core tools. Looks like it's been chewed. I'll have to replace it before I use it again. Have you had better luck with C&D?Get back to work.™