Help-Health Issues When AC Is Running

[precision hvac]

Since OP is having symptoms w/ a/c too- I'm leaning towards them having a reaction to chemicals, sealants, glues used in the duct system or installation.

[mark beiser]

I have run a Hepa air cleaner in the living area and do not have symptoms. It blows air out like a fan.

I mean something that moves enough air to significantly affect the air movement in a whole room.

[Heather432]

Again, thank you all for helping me troubleshoot.

To Mark,
I will try with a large fan and see if that induces symtoms and let you know.

Precision,
Everything I have seen regarding indoor air quality leads me to agree with you. I believe it is a chemical or VOC that is causing this, but how the heck do I find out what? I am at the point of calling an Environmental Investigation company to come in and test the air. I have lived in several "new construction" homes and have never had symptoms. Thus why I am so perplexed.

[jtrammel]

Try turning the nat gas off to your house then run the ac to see if you have any symptoms, if you do then it's probably not caused by co from a back drafting water heater

[teddy bear]

You are living a new home without any fresh air ventilation. Of course you have a more serious problem, short term.
Long term, all experts on indoor air quality suggest that you need a minimum of an fresh air change in in 4-5 hours. I suggest a box fan in the window with +100 cfm of fresh air blowing into the home 24/7 with the air handler in the "on" mode for a couple days. Then do the occupancy thing to see if anyone is sensitive to the air in the home that has proper fresh air and circulation.
If that works, install a small ventilating whole house dehumidifier( Like the Ultra-Aire) with 100 cfm of fresh make-up air.
If the 24/7 fresh air does not improve the indoor air quality, start digging into the a/c system until you identify the offending material. It should be easy to identify. Remove it and procede with the fresh air ventilation for long term indoor air quality.
All quality homes need mechanical fresh air venitlaing during calm weather and occupancy to purge the normal indoor air pollutants and renew oxygen.
In climates where the outdoor dew points are +55^F with low cooling loads need supplemental to maintain <50%RH. Green grass climates are like this during the spring/fall. Humidity control is critical to avoid mold and dust mites in the home.
I have been through this before. Keep digging, you will find the problem.
Regards TB

[Heather432]

You are living a new home without any fresh air ventilation. Of course you have a more serious problem, short term.
Long term, all experts on indoor air quality suggest that you need a minimum of an fresh air change in in 4-5 hours. I suggest a box fan in the window with +100 cfm of fresh air blowing into the home 24/7 with the air handler in the "on" mode for a couple days. Then do the occupancy thing to see if anyone is sensitive to the air in the home that has proper fresh air and circulation.
If that works, install a small ventilating whole house dehumidifier( Like the Ultra-Aire) with 100 cfm of fresh make-up air.
If the 24/7 fresh air does not improve the indoor air quality, start digging into the a/c system until you identify the offending material. It should be easy to identify. Remove it and procede with the fresh air ventilation for long term indoor air quality.
All quality homes need mechanical fresh air venitlaing during calm weather and occupancy to purge the normal indoor air pollutants and renew oxygen.
In climates where the outdoor dew points are +55^F with low cooling loads need supplemental to maintain <50%RH. Green grass climates are like this during the spring/fall. Humidity control is critical to avoid mold and dust mites in the home.
I have been through this before. Keep digging, you will find the problem.
Regards TB

Thanks so much TB. I will do as you suggest and try the fan with the air handler on and then see if we continue to react. I have a "Home air test" coming today, that allegedly measures the VOCs, mold and formaldehyde. We will see what that shows. I am going to relay this to the HVAC tech who is returning today, maybe that will spur him on to investigate more thoroughly. BTW, we are not far from you. We are in Lake Co. Illinois. Thanks again.

[Mr Bill]

You are living a new home without any fresh air ventilation. Of course you have a more serious problem, short term.
Long term, all experts on indoor air quality suggest that you need a minimum of an fresh air change in in 4-5 hours..

Is there any useful amount of fresh air drawn in from vent hoods and bath vents. I mean a 6" vent from the hood to outside during off times, has to draw in a respectful amount of fresh air, or do we just not consider these appliances sometimes as the best of both worlds? just wondering.

[jtrammel]

Is there any useful amount of fresh air drawn in from vent hoods and bath vents. I mean a 6" vent from the hood to outside during off times, has to draw in a respectful amount of fresh air, or do we just not consider these appliances sometimes as the best of both worlds? just wondering.

They should have backdraft dampers on them

[Mr Bill]

They should have backdraft dampers on them

Key word "should" In 32 years I have never seen one in Houston yet that does.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.

[energy_rater_La]

the things I've learned about backdraft dampers:
on bath fans half the time that they are even present..
they are installed upside down so that they are open all the time.
when they are installed correctly they aren't always firmly attached
to the housing and come lose and allow insulation particles to be
drawn into the house.
as does the oversized cut around the housing where it is installed
that is covered by the cover of the bathfan inside the bathroom.

stove dampers..if there is a dent/buckle in the sheetmetal it will cause the
damper to stay open or stay closed. dents & buckles usually occur
when install is being done.

OP please share with us what the findings today were.
what type of insulation did you use in attic?

best of luck & hope you have a speedy resolution.

[Heather432]

Energyrater,

The findings were basically nill. My HVAC tech thinks the units themselves are fine and the fact that we get symptoms by just running the air handler/fan, he believes it is something in the air in the house. He also showed me the crap job that the guy did that cleaned my ducts on Tuesday. The blower was so dusty as were the inside of both units. He (the air duct cleaner,) also did not take off the cool air returns, as he said some were painted. Most were not. My husband and I took them off last night, and the construction dust fell out of them. I have attached a couple of pics, including one of my HVAC guy's hand. He was mad to say the least. I called the air cleaning company and they are returning with a supervisor to reclean the units.

Also, I just checked in the attic. There is pink Owens Corning R-38 and the rest is a thick yellow insulation, which I could not find any backing stating what it is. (No signs of mold.) I am currently running an air test for VOCs, mold and formaldehyde. We shall see what comes of it.

[energy_rater_La]

no pics attached.
you should give teddy bear a call.
unreal that you have to clean new ductwork..twice. hope it isn't flex duct.

not only should ducts be clean..but they should also be mastic sealed.
even where supply boxes enter conditioned space..behind the supply grills.
if areas where attic air & insulation particles are not sealed they will
circulate the air & particles through the house. if you have recessed lights
that are not air tight & sealed where they penetrate the sheetrock ceiling
(insulation contact air tight not just IC) these also allow insulation particles
into the house.

to me..the things you describe sound like adhesives & caulks used to assemble
hvac system (which is why I use mastics) or voc's from other sources.
(ductwork supply boxes return air recessed lights oversized cuts in sheetrock
ceilings not sealed to name a few)
these have been my experiences with the situation you describe from homeowners
in my area.

if it is not the hvac system itself, then sealing the leakage sites and keeping the
house under a positive pressure (see teddy bear's posting #33) is what is usually needed.

while it will be interesting to see what is found out, I am sorry to know that
this is your experience in your new home.

best of luck.

[Heather432]

Energy_Rater_La,

Sorry I forgot to attach the photos last night. (A symptom of my ongoing stress!) I know that while up in the attic, I can easily see light around the can/recessed lights. I plan on mentioning TB's suggestions, however, I think it will fall on deaf ears. Thanks again for the help.

Heather