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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    6

    Curious about new Trane system

    I have had a new system installed and just got curious about model numbers, compatibility and exactly what the numbers mean. For instance I know the 36 in the compressor indicates it is a 3 ton unit. I have two matching systems for my house.

    We live in TX and have propane for heat.

    I have a TUD2C080A9V4VBA (XV-80) furnace with 4TTR5036E100AC (XR-15) compressor and a 4TXCC060BC3HCBA Coil.

    Did the contractor match up appropriate units? I guess I expected the coil to have a 36 in the code somewhere to go with the 3 ton compressor.

    The systems are in the attic - horizontal flow. I think they may have bent one of the units. It is nearly impossible to put the door that opens to show the dip switches and circuit board back on (I'm talking a major struggle). Like the unit is sagging/bent in the middle. What would most of you say if a customer pointed that out and insisted it be fixed?

    Thank you for any inputs/feedback...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Upper Michigan
    Posts
    3,588
    They may not have hung it right but some of the train doors are crap. When we became a train dealer the first few I installed I was not impressed with the doors, one I had a hell of a time with.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    4,665
    I would fix it .most gas furnaces if you drop them on the corner it racks them out of square and they can be a pain to get the door on, also they need supported in the middle
    We really need change now

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    67
    .

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    67
    TU = Trane up flow
    D = induced draft
    2 = two stage
    C = 21" cabinet width
    080 = 80,000 btu
    A = design
    9 = 115 volts/ 60 hertz / natural gas
    V4= 4ton variable speed motor
    V= variable speed inducer
    B= minor design change
    A= service digit-not orderable

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    4,665
    Being on propane they should have offered a duel fuel heat pump,other than that it should work fine as for the coil as long as they have the airflow set properly its all ok
    We really need change now

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by catmanacman View Post
    Being on propane they should have offered a duel fuel heat pump,other than that it should work fine as for the coil as long as they have the airflow set properly its all ok
    What would you consider the correct airflow setting? Looks like the dip switches set for low airflow.

    Thank you for the responses!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    North Richland Hills, Texas
    Posts
    14,914
    Quote Originally Posted by rdbfmtx View Post
    I have a TUD2C080A9V4VBA (XV-80) furnace with 4TTR5036E100AC (XR-15) compressor and a 4TXCC060BC3HCBA Coil.

    Did the contractor match up appropriate units? I guess I expected the coil to have a 36 in the code somewhere to go with the 3 ton compressor
    Yes, it is a valid equipment match, the larger coil was used to get the full 15 SEER rating.

    The systems are in the attic - horizontal flow. I think they may have bent one of the units. It is nearly impossible to put the door that opens to show the dip switches and circuit board back on (I'm talking a major struggle). Like the unit is sagging/bent in the middle. What would most of you say if a customer pointed that out and insisted it be fixed?
    If the blower access is difficult to get off and on, the furnace was likely either not installed correctly, or damaged.
    If the furnace is hung with 4 straps, one screwed to each corner of the furnace, it is not installed correctly. That hanging method requires a 5th strap in the middle, towards the front of the furnace. The installation instructions are specific about it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Joehvac25 View Post
    They may not have hung it right but some of the train doors are crap. When we became a train dealer the first few I installed I was not impressed with the doors, one I had a hell of a time with.
    You're doing it wrong.
    If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Upper Michigan
    Posts
    3,588
    Mark we don't hang them things in Michigan lol. I was talking in general, downflow was the one I really had a hard time with.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    North Richland Hills, Texas
    Posts
    14,914
    Quote Originally Posted by Joehvac25 View Post
    downflow was the one I really had a hard time with.
    All counterflow furnaces suck to work on, without even one exception.
    If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    4,665
    I would set it for 3 ton with comfort r turned on and 400 cfm per ton and hopefully they have wired correct for comfort r to work
    We really need change now

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by mark beiser View Post
    Yes, it is a valid equipment match, the larger coil was used to get the full 15 SEER rating.



    If the blower access is difficult to get off and on, the furnace was likely either not installed correctly, or damaged.
    If the furnace is hung with 4 straps, one screwed to each corner of the furnace, it is not installed correctly. That hanging method requires a 5th strap in the middle, towards the front of the furnace. The installation instructions are specific about it.
    I see that the instructions are specific about a strap at the front center of the furnace. I will be calling the company that sold and installed the system tomorrow.
    I also noticed that the Coil installation instructions call for a trap on the condensate drain. There is no trap and there is no cap on the top of the opening for blowing out the line (cold air is rushing out). Installer said something about not covering that because it wont drain properly if it is covered. Should I push for the trap in the condensate drain? Can I cap it?
    Additionally, both air handlers seem to hit a harmonic or hum when running. It is faint but annoying - especially at night. Ideas what that might be and should I push the installers to fix it?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    North Richland Hills, Texas
    Posts
    14,914
    Quote Originally Posted by rdbfmtx View Post
    I also noticed that the Coil installation instructions call for a trap on the condensate drain. There is no trap and there is no cap on the top of the opening for blowing out the line (cold air is rushing out). Installer said something about not covering that because it wont drain properly if it is covered. Should I push for the trap in the condensate drain? Can I cap it?
    The decision to trap or not is a choice between 2 evils.
    With the trap, the chances of having a drain clog go up exponentially.
    Without the trap, you have a 20-30 CFM air leak of freshly cooled or heated air.

    I've gone back and forth on it myself, but have decided the small air leak is less of an evil than the exponentially greater probability of a clogged drain.
    The vent in the drain needs to stay uncapped, but if the volume of air coming out of it bothers you, a hole can be drilled in a slip on cap.

    Additionally, both air handlers seem to hit a harmonic or hum when running. It is faint but annoying - especially at night. Ideas what that might be and should I push the installers to fix it?
    Is the noise coming from the units, or from the return grills? Do the systems go to centrally located returns, or are they ducted out to multiple returns?
    It isn't uncommon to get a harmonic set up in the grill on a large central return. Usually they get under sized a bit, so the air velocity through the grill is higher than it is rated for.
    Preferably there should be returns to each area that can be closed off from the rest of the house by a door, except bathrooms, laundry, kitchen, etc..
    Cheaper and easier, if the return duct sizes are adequate, and there are not room to room pressure imbalances, is to get a fixed bar aluminum return grill, they can handle higher velocities without making noise.
    If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.

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