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  1. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Keokuk, IA
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    5,520
    Quote Originally Posted by jtrammel View Post
    If the duct was sized for 1200 cfm and now you have 800cfm the velocity is lower so the cooled air stays in the ducts longer and gains more heat from the attic, this could be the reason for the 14f drop vs 18f drop.

    Very good point. Plus you still have the larger surface areas of the slightly oversized ducts. On the flip side, if well sealed and instulated, the reduced static pressure can spot you as much even 0.5 SEER over a restrictive system with a VS blower.

    My ductwork for example is fairly oversized now that I went from 3.5 to 2 tons and the blower isn't far from minimum RPM on low speed fan (50% of heating airflow). But if my attic wasn't conditioned, I suspect I'd see a large amount of heat gain and loss from the ductwork.


    This brings up a good point. On attic installations, it even more improtant to minimize total length of ductwork, the number of supplies and returns, and using proper sizing to meet those objectives. Even better reason for attic installation in vented unconditioned attics to be banned. Just spend the money, give up 3' of closet space and stick ductwork in the floor and walls. But I suspect I'm preaching to the choir here.

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Galloway, Ohio
    Posts
    62
    I would have liked to know what your Total enthalpy was (supply and return) on the old system, compared to the new system. If you have a accurate way of calculating your air flow, you can tell exactly what BTU's your system is putting out.

  3. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Moore, Oklahoma, United States
    Posts
    4,513
    I've considered getting the ductwork out of the attic, or least reducing the amount of surface area. I've already made significant reductions in surface area buy combining ducts and using y connectors at the end instead of every register having it's own duct from the trunk. To further reduce surface area would mean moving registers and patching drywall, I could move the vents closer to the air handler instead of having the ductwork go to the perimeter of the house. I have 10' ceiling in the living room, kitchen and master bedroom. 8' ceilings in the hallway, could do sidewall registers. Not sure how much I'd gain or if it's even worth the effort.

    Another consideration is replacing the 1/3HP blower motor that draws 350W on low speed with a 1/5HP motor that would draw 200W on high speed. Saving 150W would improve the system EER about 1 point. It would take 1,000KWH of power savings to pay for the motor. I figure a 3 year payback time on the new motor, on the fence if it's worth the effort. I suppose if I got the motor for the right price it could be worth it.

  4. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    68,802
    The 1/5 HP motor probably wouldn't be strong enough to give you the same air flow.

    Take an accurate temp (not an IR thermometer) reading of the temp in the plenum, and then one at a couple of the supply registers. So you know how much temp delta your duct system really has, before you change things that won't help.

    You might be surprised how much difference that 6 ounces you didn't add for the 10 foot line set length over 15 foot can make.
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  5. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Anderson, South Carolina, United States
    Posts
    7,778
    Quote Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
    The 1/5 HP motor probably wouldn't be strong enough to give you the same air flow.

    Take an accurate temp (not an IR thermometer) reading of the temp in the plenum, and then one at a couple of the supply registers. So you know how much temp delta your duct system really has, before you change things that won't help.

    You might be surprised how much difference that 6 ounces you didn't add for the 10 foot line set length over 15 foot can make.
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  6. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Moore, Oklahoma, United States
    Posts
    4,513
    Would you weigh in 6 oz or charge by subcooling?

  7. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Palmyra, Missouri, United States
    Posts
    224
    should tell you manufacturers requirement for subcooling on data plate on outdoor unit. obviously you would charge it per subcooling. who knows what the actually put in at the factory......

  8. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Columbia, MD
    Posts
    4,488
    i would do both. just to see if the factory is right. i always verify my subcooling.

  9. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Columbia, MD
    Posts
    4,488
    this is also a good thread. thanks for taking the time to do this

  10. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atlanta GA area
    Posts
    21,768
    Quote Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
    Recheck your SC on the next 95 degree you get a chance to.
    Agree with this! Assuming ductwork is not too restrictive (high static pressure), TXV coils seem to work better if one sets the SC right up to factory specs, rather than pressure charts.
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  11. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Anderson, South Carolina, United States
    Posts
    7,778
    I always weigh in and verify with subcooling

  12. #38
    Join Date
    Nov 2000
    Location
    Eastern PA
    Posts
    68,981
    Most likely too much air and/or duct infiltration not dehumidifying as well as is possible. The low delta-t is a direct indicator of too much air.

    Possible cures; VS blower set for 600-700 cfm of air and programmed for dehumidification, an enthalpy controlled evap coil by-pass or a volume damper in the main supply trunk closed to create enough SP to drop air volume to below 800 cfm.
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  13. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    6,051
    How is it doing now that its heating?

    Pull the specs on that compressor and id bet its a 19000kbtu.

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