Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,179

    Exhaust fan hood for kitchen stove

    Just replaced a dayton 1725 rpm , 1hp , 220 v , 56 frame ...... with the same motor (grainger was only place in town with one )

    The only difference is this new one has a manual reset button for OL , old one has internal self resetting one.

    2 hours after install , they call said it stopped.

    I go up there , remove motor , its hot as the devil ofcourse being its on top of a STOVE , let it cool off 15 min , hit the reset , and its fine.

    OK I see , this thing wants to play games with me .

    I take the internal OL self resetting switch out of the old motor, and install it into this new one.

    24 hours later its still running fine.

    I told them to call me right away if they notice it turning off and resetting. No calls yet.

    Anyone ever ran into this ????

    Im assuming theres probly a special motor just for hoods with alot of heat ??

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Chicagoland Area
    Posts
    4,626
    You can order motors without overloads. We have a local motor distributor that will remove the overloads, if need be, for hood exhausts for us before we pick them up
    And Grainger is good for...
    Officially, Down for the count

    YOU HAVE TO GET OFF YOUR ASS TO GET ON YOUR FEET

    I know enough to know, I don't know enough
    Liberalism-Ideas so good they mandate them

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    25
    Quote Originally Posted by Snapperhead View Post
    Just replaced a dayton 1725 rpm , 1hp , 220 v , 56 frame ...... with the same motor (grainger was only place in town with one )

    The only difference is this new one has a manual reset button for OL , old one has internal self resetting one.

    2 hours after install , they call said it stopped.

    I go up there , remove motor , its hot as the devil ofcourse being its on top of a STOVE , let it cool off 15 min , hit the reset , and its fine.

    OK I see , this thing wants to play games with me .

    I take the internal OL self resetting switch out of the old motor, and install it into this new one.

    24 hours later its still running fine.

    I told them to call me right away if they notice it turning off and resetting. No calls yet.

    Anyone ever ran into this ????

    Im assuming theres probly a special motor just for hoods with alot of heat ??
    I am pretty sure kitchen exhaust fans are not to have overloads in the motor.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,179
    ok so if the problem comes again i can just remove it entirely ?

    Fine by me

    All it does is sit between incomming L1 and the field wire , klixon type

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    25
    Quote Originally Posted by Snapperhead View Post
    ok so if the problem comes again i can just remove it entirely ?

    Fine by me

    All it does is sit between incomming L1 and the field wire , klixon type
    Is the motor on the roof inside of an upblast vent system with a domed lid over the motor? Is it a belt drive system? The units I see without overloads in the motors are belt driven with a ducted vent to cool the motor. I have seen downblast vents installed in place of commercial kitchen upblast with poor results. Another thing is some motors have a bogus HP rating on them. Amp draw works the best to make sure the new motor is as big or bigger than the old one.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,179
    Quote Originally Posted by Kenscom View Post
    Is the motor on the roof inside of an upblast vent system with a domed lid over the motor? Is it a belt drive system?
    yes and yes ..... but the motor isnt in the air stream . Air blows up outside of where its mounted. Im surprised the motors dont self destruct.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    25

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by Snapperhead View Post
    yes and yes ..... but the motor isnt in the air stream . Air blows up outside of where its mounted. Im surprised the motors dont self destruct.
    Usually an air duct is on the side directing cooling air over the motor. About half of the ones I have seen the electrician ran the service through this air duct. If the duct is blocked or the lid is not making a good seal the motor is likely to overheat. The shaft hole under the motor is in a low pressure under running conditions that creates flow from the cooling duct through the shaft hole then into the air stream. I hope this helps.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,179
    I will have to look next time im over there

    I figured that shaft hole would pull negative air , but didnt pay attention where the inlet was

    Maybe like u said , someone ran elec thru it

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Albany, Georgia
    Posts
    38
    I don't recall seeing any motors with resets. A lot of bigger restaurants have exhaust fans that are controlled by motor controllers with overload protection. We also have a customer that has multiple fans - each with it's own VFD. The VFD's are networked to a master controller that has a modem that will dial out to the manufacturer if there is a problem detected. The hoods have smoke and heat detectors that connect into the controller and it increases or decreases the speed of the motors to compensate for the amout of heat/smoke. If you ever encounter one of these CALL THE MANUFACTURER of the controller. It will same some time and heartache.

    We have been doing these for about 2 years and it has been an experience. I have seen exhaust fans do weird things.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event