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Thread: Trying to figure out if the repair guy is right in his assessment

  1. #1
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    Trying to figure out if the repair guy is right in his assessment

    Hi all,

    First post in the forums...

    I live in Phoenix, where it has been a bit humid and very hot recently. I have a 5-ton outside ground mounted compressor and the air handler and furnace are in the attic, about 60 feet away from the compressor.

    we noticed a wet spot on the ceiling just below the air handler a few weeks ago, and called our home warranty company. they sent out a contractor, who determined water was coming out of the opening where the refrigerant tube enters. he thought the cold tube was sweating and insulated about 6" of it and taped it up. Didn't stop leaking

    Next guy came out and decided to putty the hole closed all around the refrigerant tubes. that didn't work either.

    third guy came out today and decided that the fan is blowing the condensation hard enough for it to go into the air duct, where it settles and flows back toward the air handler, and leaks out the bottom. he says the tray is fine, and he even poured a gallon of water in to make sure it drained properly. He feels a sort of baffle is needed to prevent the air from blowing the water into the duct. His solution today was to cut the fan speed to 1/2 or so, and he claimed a baffle wouldn't be covered under our home warranty, and that it would cost $ dollars or so.

    Now, the airflow is lower, and quieter, and I don't know if it will be able to cool the house, which is about 2000 sq. ft. It has trouble keeping it cool when the temp gets up to about 108 to 110 here. Otherwise nice and cold. Compressor was recently replaced with a new one, by the way.

    Do you think I should leave the fan speed set low? He said he can easily put it back to normal. Is it bad for anything? Will the air be colder, and effectively just as effective?

    Thanks a lot!
    Last edited by beenthere; 08-29-2012 at 05:36 AM. Reason: price

  2. #2
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    The air will be colder and will remove humidity better but could cause the coil to freeze over if the fan speed is too low. No offense to the contractor, he could be a great tech but home warranty companies are notorious for using the cheapest unskilled hvac contractors to do work for them. Most contractors refuse to work for them.

  3. #3
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    This is a GREAT example of why consumers should not deal with home warranty companies!

    What a joke.

    How long have you lived in the home? Do you do regular maintenance? How old is the system?
    Make your expertise uniquely valuable.

    Make your influence uniquely far-reaching.

  4. #4
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    And yes the air will be colder, for a time! At least until you wipe out the valves in your new compressor!
    Make your expertise uniquely valuable.

    Make your influence uniquely far-reaching.

  5. #5
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    We just moved into the house. The outside unit is probably 10 years old, maybe 15. Soon after we moved in (and after we thankfully got the warranty, called OneGuard), the control board went out (we didn't know that was the problem but the fan would go on and off, and there were times when the compressor would be running with the fan off), then the compressor went out. The warranty company took care of the problem and provided good service. The tech, from a company called Removed Company Name, ordered a new board and compressor, replaced both, and we had to pay for refrigerant only, plus the 55 dollar call. They offered to pay me 900 dollars toward the cost of a new system if I wanted it, which I found for about $ (5 ton 13 seer American Std). I decided that that was a lot to invest in a house I may not stay in, and my summer electric bills have been about $250, which is good for this city, and took the new compressor.

    The tech that came today says the furnace (gas) is old but he said the coil is new, probably 2005. I am not sure how he knows that. He is the same tech that came last time and tried sealing up the unit. He seems convinced the water is being blown around. He also showed us how to revert to the higher fan speed, which we feel we can do easily if recommended. But I also have to be able to negotiate with the warranty co.

    Update: I just went into the attic and found that there was water in the baking pan I placed under the unit. It could be water that the tech didn't empty out when he came this am, but i am not sure. the bottom of the unit was dry. I will check again later or tomorrow.
    Last edited by beenthere; 08-29-2012 at 05:38 AM. Reason: price

  6. #6
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    A dirty evap coil can cause this.

  7. #7
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    Prices are not allowed.

  8. #8
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    Oops...didn't realize prices were not ok. just wanted to explain the decision process.

    So, do you guys think I am putting my system at risk by leaving the fan at this lower speed (seems like 1/2 of normal speed)? Would you recommend that I get them back out to do further work on the system?

  9. #9
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    This is the Ask Our Pro's forum. In order to post a response here, you must have verified qualifications and have been approved by the AOP Committee. You may ask a question by starting a new thread.

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    Last edited by beenthere; 08-29-2012 at 06:57 PM. Reason: Non Pro * Member

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by sshanky View Post
    Oops...didn't realize prices were not ok. just wanted to explain the decision process.

    So, do you guys think I am putting my system at risk by leaving the fan at this lower speed (seems like 1/2 of normal speed)? Would you recommend that I get them back out to do further work on the system?
    Fan speed isn't as important actual airflow and system operation.

    With a very large fan compared to system size, low speed might be OK. With a smaller fan, then maybe not. And that doesn't account for duct work and its affects on airflow.

    A couple of simple system tests would tell the tale. Particularly checking airflow and compressor superheat and subcooling.



  11. #11
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    This is the Ask Our Pro's forum. In order to post a response here, you must have verified qualifications and have been approved by the AOP Committee. You may ask a question by starting a new thread.

    You can find the rules for posting and qualifications here.

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    Last edited by jpsmith1cm; 08-29-2012 at 02:19 PM. Reason: non AOP member

  12. #12
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    AYservicetech


    This is the Ask Our Pro's forum. In order to post a response here, you must have verified qualifications and have been approved by the AOP Committee. You may ask a question by starting a new thread.

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  13. #13
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    More info, in case it helps. I have a Goodman chpf60d2c, as shown on work order. I saw a label inside the unit that says 1993, so it's not new, even though he thought the coil was newer than that.

    His description: "no secondary pan; drain is clear & trapped. system can be pumped down. homeowner's 1st season. reduced air speed from high to m-hi. drain is clear and trapped. filled pan w/ water. does not appear to have cracks. air flow on surface of pan water pushing some water into supply plenum. a baffle could be tried to stop this condition. coil would need to be pulled. no kit from goodman available."

  14. #14
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    Also, he told us that we could remove the cover, unplug the air handler, and reverse the black and blue wires to up the speed back to full. I opened the cover and reversed the two wires, but one was called M1 or M2 and the other one was attached to a small fan that looked like an exhaust fan, leading to a rooftop exit. So I put them back to the way they had been. Plus, I didn't hear any increase in air velocity.

  15. #15
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    think you got the wrong wire.

  16. #16
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    Please be careful moving wires around!

    Without knowing external static pressure, no one can tell you yes/no about the fan speed.

    It is possible the blower is pushing water off the coil and into the plennum if its a gas fired furnace. Simple to fix but rules do not allow us to post DIY info.

    Did the tech measure air flow before and after moving the fan speed? Did he blow out the drain before pouring water into it? Did he check the drain where it connects to the plumbing? Did he pour water into the trap or the pan?

    If not, find a qualified tech in your area to come out. If your plan doesn't cover the service call, pay out of pocket. A collapsed ceiling is no joke and will cost a lot more.

    Please be careful about moving wires around!


    Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

  17. #17
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    can you give general guidelines on what the proper solution is? If it's simple, shouldn't the tech have figured out what to do? I still am not sure if I should leave the fan at 1/2 speed or if I should want it to be blowing full speed. Thanks.

  18. #18
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    In Phoenix you want all the airflow you can get

  19. #19
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    the fan is not at 1/2 speed, it's only reduced by 1/3 or 1/4th.
    I would call the tech/home warranty company and ask if cleaning the coil/blower was done? a partially obstructed coil will cause air to be forced through the coil at a higher pressure, and this can blow water into your ductwork.
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