Looks like a cheesy zoning attempt. The money is much better spent fixing the ductwork.
http://www.theactivent.com/save.html
The above product claims "up to" 30% energy savings per year. Their test data is based on ONE home. Does any professional have any real world experience with this product? Do you recommend it?
My home has ONE big central air supply and one return, that cools the central great room very well, but the 3 peripheral bedrooms tend to be a little warmer. I probably need to undercut the doors to get some more cooling. My home has 10 vents. At fifty bucks a vent, it adds up. But theoretically I'd only need vents in the Great Room. Once that reaches say 75 degrees F, then the activents would close and then the peripheral rooms would be cooled more.
Here's why I dont' believe the hype. My thermostat is in the Great Room. Right now it cuts OFF early because the Great room cools down quickly while other rooms remain warmer. If I install the activent, wouldn't it make the HVAC system run longer since the peripheral rooms would receive the balanced of the air, thus making it run a bit longer?
Looks like a cheesy zoning attempt. The money is much better spent fixing the ductwork.
nope.....
it was working.... played with it.... now its broke.... whats the going hourly rate for HVAC repair
From the sizes, and type of throw, of the ones for sale in their store, it looks like they are only for floor vents.
I'd anticipate upto about 6% savings.
Designer Dan __ It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with Some Art. _ _ KEEP IT SIMPLE & SINCERE ___ __ www.mysimplifiedhvac.com ___ __ Define the Building Envelope & Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows & Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities
Last edited by dan sw fl; 08-29-2012 at 06:09 AM.
Designer Dan __ It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with Some Art. _ _ KEEP IT SIMPLE & SINCERE ___ __ www.mysimplifiedhvac.com ___ __ Define the Building Envelope & Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows & Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities
I'd under cut the doors first.
You would probably need some of those vents in the other rooms that cool ok now. Since the air that wouldn't be going to the great room anymore will come out the next easiest path, which may not be to those bedrooms.
This is a product specifically designed and marketed to people who think there's a free lunch. For starters, a properly designed and installed system doesn't have the wide temperature variations this products needs to have any affect. Second to that issue is that the current system will perform based on the thermostat location and the resulting air delivered to each room during the heating or cooling cycle. When the room with the t-stat is satisfied, the system shuts down. As a final note, if you have cool rooms relative to other rooms in the house, this is an indication that insufficient Btu's are being introduced to those rooms during each heat cycle. So installing any device to ADD Btu's to the room will increase the fuel consumption/energy bill, not lower it. Thus, energy savings of any type would only be accomplished in rooms that are currently over heating. I will say that I've solved more than one problem using a similar method of a 'non-voting' zone damper installed in a single supply outlet and controlled by a t-stat that can ONLY stop the flow of air at set point but cannot bring on the equipment. In that respect, it does the job of improving comfort but I've never had anyone ever tell me they saved any money/energy with such a set up.
If YOU want change, YOU have to first change.
If you are waiting for the 'other guy' to change first, just remember, you're the 'other guy's' other guy. To continue to expect real change when you keep acting the same way as always, is folly. Won't happen. Real change will only happen when a majority of the people change the way they vote!
I suppose thsi could help if you have massive imbalance issues and are overconditioning one part of the home to get the other to a comfortable temrpature. You nca also just balancea system with zone dampers.
A properly size, installed, and balanced systme will have all room within 0.5F other than large swings in solar heat gain if there are a lot of south facing windows or a room with appliances or high occupancy (kitchen, dining room, family room)
Is there a system out there that would close vents to large rooms at night like the living rooms and thus redirect heat/cool to bedrooms? I guess the trick is somehow having a second thermostat in the bedrooms, otherwise the bedrooms would get too hot.
It's a poor man's VAV!
Your time is better spent evaluating the uncomfortable rooms to find out why they are not receiving or relieving enough air to keep the rooms comfortable.
Psychrometrics: the very foundation of HVAC. A comfort troubleshooter's best friend.
OK I agree. Let's assume all rooms are fixed so they are always comfortable. Would having someone install some HVAC zone dampers in the living room ducts connected to a programmable timer so they close only at night time only help me save energy? I'd live to have the living room not heated/cooled from 10pm to 6am every night.
Not enough where you'd recover the $$$ invested within even 10 years. Lets say you use 20% less energy (very optimistic) during that 8 hour period closing off that room and assume you furanec still has enough airflow and doesn't trip and high temperature. Over a 24 hour period that's only maybe 7%. SO if you have lets say a properly sized 60k BTU furnace, you might use maybe $600 in gas over a season. That's $42/year. Is it worth all that effort to save $30-40 per year?
If you want to save $40, try eating a little less food each day, lose 15-20lbs and you're metabolic rate will drop and you will require 5% less food. Sicne your food bill is probably over $2000/year, that's $100... and you be healthier and save on medical costs.
THere's you go, I just saved you $100. I of course am joking and making the possibly unfair assumption that you can lose 15-20lbs. But just trying to make a point.
Also, in the summer, you won't save much. The ineffciency from shorter runs times due to lower load will partially offset the reduce demand. Plus the cooling load at nighttime after 12PM in most climates is minimal anyway.
ok thanks for the advice!
I can see it *helping* shut down certain rooms if they reach temp before others and for $500 it might help but it won't save that much money. You can also go to home depot and pick up a thermostat that is programmable and will claim to save 30% for only $60.
I would not spend my money on it.
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1. > 90% of your run time is probably during the day/ evening [ 11 AM - 8 pm]
___ Why would any1 PAIN themselves and attempt to save 10% of 10%, net 1%. Setting the t-stat up 1'F will do more than that.
2. So set 1 or 2 MAX Activent in living area(s) at 80'F with the t-stat set to 75'F.
OTHERWISE ... ZONEX or similar by an E X P E R I E N C E D Tech in setting up zone controls.
http://zonexsystems.com/
http://zonexsystems.com/aconsum.htm
Go short on professionalism on zoning and you get what you Pay For, .:. Nothing.
Designer Dan __ It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with Some Art. _ _ KEEP IT SIMPLE & SINCERE ___ __ www.mysimplifiedhvac.com ___ __ Define the Building Envelope & Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows & Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities
Wouldn't closing the livingroom register at bed time and opening it in the morning do the same thing with a zero cost?
Designer Dan __ It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with Some Art. _ _ KEEP IT SIMPLE & SINCERE ___ __ www.mysimplifiedhvac.com ___ __ Define the Building Envelope & Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows & Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities