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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    6,371
    You have got a lot of advice, some very good. This must be confusing to a homeowner and the local tech.
    I see the priority this way.
    1. You need a 45-50^F a/c cooling coil to get to <50%RH at 75^F . This is more than a 25^F temperture drop of the air flowing through the coil to remove the right amount of moisture quickly.
    2. The a/c needs a cooling cycle long enough to load the cooling coil with moisture and drip to the drain. 10 mins. is too short. It takes +20 mins. to load a coil and start draining. Slowing the fan will get you the cold coil. Increasing the dead band of the t-stat to increase the time of the cooling cycle. During the hottest days, your a/c will maintain <50%RH. During days of low/no cooling loads, it is impossible for any a/c to maintain <50%RH when the outdoor dew points are +55^F. You need supplemental dehumidification to maintain <50%RH which is a must to avoid mold and dust mites. On cool wet days, you must dehumidify 3-4 gallons of moisture everyday to maintain <50%RH. This is the moisture from the occupants and the infiltrating/ventilating fresh air.
    You have additional indoor air quality problems in addition to high indoor %RH. You need an fresh air change in 4-5 hours to purge indoor polutants and renew oxygen. This would be 50-70 cfm of fresh air when the home is occupied at a minimum.
    I suggest you get you a/c setup properly and then get a small whole house ventilating dehumidifier like the Ultra-Aire 70H. This type unit will provide the right amount of friltered fresh air on a occupancy schedule and maintain <50%RH when the a/c does not have enough cooling load.
    Fresh air ventilation and <50%RH will make your home healthy and and comfortable. It will take a month or two of fresh air and <50%RH to stop the dust mites and mold from affecting your allergies.
    Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  2. #15
    I think I like the idea of a whole home dehumidifier. I just watched a couple of youtube videos Without being specific what would something like an Ultra-Air 70 H cost? I have no idea, a few hundred, a thousand or a couple of thousand? I googled and can't find a price on amazon, ebay or the manufacturers web site.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    67,913
    Neither prices nor pricing questions are allowed.

    Call local contractors and have them give you estimates.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Keokuk, IA
    Posts
    5,520
    If it was comfortable before at 2 tons AND you made improments to reduce energy use, you probably needed a 1.5 Tons or another 2 ton unit. +1 on dropping hte blwoer speed. The XC allows a lot of flexibility. You will also want ot use Dehumidify on demand not COmfort R.

    TO make matters worse, I wonder if they matched a 3 ton coil with you unit. A common thing to do, and not a problem if the unit is correctly sized. I have a 2.5 ton coil on my 2 ton system. But I'm cooling a 1500sqft upstairs.... and your climate is comparable to where I am, with a little more mild winter, and slightly more humid, but not much. Depending on shade and overall insulaton, 1.5 ton wouyld have been plenty.

    But that's water under the bridge. Contractor that do load calculation and follow all good industry practices are far and few between. The whole house dehumidifier is your best bet. Not cheap, but it will extend the overall life of your systme since it will run less, bring in fresh filterd outside air and pressurize you home slightly (great for allergies) and drop you humidity to <50%RH...even better for allergies. On the few cloudy days when our house gets up to even 55%RH, I can tell the difference. Our noses get stuffed up. 45-50%RH is best. IT will allow you ot keep it aroudn 75-76F as well and overall you should save energy.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    1,915
    Quote Originally Posted by supermaxhd View Post
    I think I like the idea of a whole home dehumidifier. I just watched a couple of youtube videos Without being specific what would something like an Ultra-Air 70 H cost? I have no idea, a few hundred, a thousand or a couple of thousand? I googled and can't find a price on amazon, ebay or the manufacturers web site.
    Dehumidier machine is the last resource.

    Why buy the rags to clean your oil spill, where you can stop the oil spill????
    I am sure there is a GOOD tech out there can help you resolve your problem with what you have.

    As for your FAN MODE, leaving it ON all the time is not help you at all. Instead it does worse. BUT you need it ON for the filter system to work.--- Can you set it to CIRC (circulating mode) ? My guess is that your thermostat does not have this CIRC feature either. It does not have the DEHUMIDIFYING feature too. If the answer is NO to both than you are not taking FULL advantage of the system yet.

    Get a GOOD tech.

  6. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by motoguy128 View Post
    If it was comfortable before at 2 tons AND you made improments to reduce energy use, you probably needed a 1.5 Tons or another 2 ton unit. +1 on dropping hte blwoer speed. The XC allows a lot of flexibility. You will also want ot use Dehumidify on demand not COmfort R.

    TO make matters worse, I wonder if they matched a 3 ton coil with you unit. A common thing to do, and not a problem if the unit is correctly sized. I have a 2.5 ton coil on my 2 ton system. But I'm cooling a 1500sqft upstairs.... and your climate is comparable to where I am, with a little more mild winter, and slightly more humid, but not much. Depending on shade and overall insulaton, 1.5 ton wouyld have been plenty.

    But that's water under the bridge. Contractor that do load calculation and follow all good industry practices are far and few between. The whole house dehumidifier is your best bet. Not cheap, but it will extend the overall life of your systme since it will run less, bring in fresh filterd outside air and pressurize you home slightly (great for allergies) and drop you humidity to <50%RH...even better for allergies. On the few cloudy days when our house gets up to even 55%RH, I can tell the difference. Our noses get stuffed up. 45-50%RH is best. IT will allow you ot keep it aroudn 75-76F as well and overall you should save energy.
    Yes, the coil is 3 ton. I remember having specific conversations about the 3 ton coil when it was recommended to me and I asked if it was too much. I was assured it wasn't and that it would help me get the 15.5 seer rating and help me the heating side. As I have previously corrected the furnace is an XV80 and not the communicating model. Does that mean it does not have 'dehumidify on demand'?
    I am starting to look at whole house dehumidification units now. Is the Trane 'fresh effects' such a unit? It talks about capability to dehumidify incoming fresh air but it doesn't look like it does what the ultra-aire 70h does.

  7. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by just_opinion View Post
    Dehumidier machine is the last resource.

    Why buy the rags to clean your oil spill, where you can stop the oil spill????
    I am sure there is a GOOD tech out there can help you resolve your problem with what you have.

    As for your FAN MODE, leaving it ON all the time is not help you at all. Instead it does worse. BUT you need it ON for the filter system to work.--- Can you set it to CIRC (circulating mode) ? My guess is that your thermostat does not have this CIRC feature either. It does not have the DEHUMIDIFYING feature too. If the answer is NO to both than you are not taking FULL advantage of the system yet.

    Get a GOOD tech.
    I do have CIRC but no dehumidify.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern VA 38 degrees N by 76 degrees W
    Posts
    5,060
    Quote Originally Posted by supermaxhd View Post
    I do have CIRC but no dehumidify.
    What Tstat do you have?

  9. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by second opinion View Post
    What Tstat do you have?
    TCONT800 Series Touch Screen Programmable Comfort Control

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    1,915
    Quote Originally Posted by supermaxhd View Post
    TCONT800 Series Touch Screen Programmable Comfort Control
    Yup. You got the least feature of the touch screen group than trane has. You need AT LEAST Tcon803 or the XL803 AND a GOOD tech to set the system up for you. He even lead you to a better thermostat.

    Here is the link for your choice of stat.

    http://www.trane.com/Residential/Pro...s-and-controls

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    4,627
    I would find a contractor that knws trane and have them install a honeywell iaq thermostat or you could make sure the the blower dip switches are set for a 2.5 ton ac unit at 350 cfm per also if the orange wires do not and on the o on the board the comfort r does not work

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    6,371
    Quote Originally Posted by supermaxhd View Post
    I am starting to look at whole house dehumidification units now. Is the Trane 'fresh effects' such a unit? It talks about capability to dehumidify incoming fresh air but it doesn't look like it does what the ultra-aire 70h does.
    The dehumidify mode of the all of the a/c's means that air flow is minimized and they over-cool upto 3^F. None of the a/cs are cooling during the evenings hours or during cool wet weather. All homes need dehumidification beyond cooling when the outside dew ponts are +55^F and the home occupied to maintain <50%RH. A/cs are able to maintain <50%RH with intermitten cooling loads and +55^F outside dew points. Occupants add .5 lbs. of moisture per hour plus the moisture in the infiltrating/ventilation fresh air are the dehumidification load. Last week in WI we had one 90^F day and no cooling loads the rest of the week. The Ultra-Aire 70H dehumidifier removed 20 gals of moisture and the a/c removed 4 gals for the week to maintain <50%RH throughout the house. This was with 2 occupants and 80 cfm of fresh air 24/7.
    Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    The Quad-Cities area (midwest).
    Posts
    2,653
    You had a 2 ton that worked fine and the contractor installed a 2.5 ton.............that was brilliant on his part.

    It cost you more to purchase, operate and (insult to injury) it doesn't do the job the way it should.

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