Then let me rephrase. I'd start be leak testing the coil. Literally, that's what I'd do if I were there.
Originally Posted by Pete954
It doesn't really matter whether someone found a leak near the sight glass, there could be more than one leak in the system. If a leak in the coil is the source of the oil that is causing the condensate drip (if oil is the culprit), then cleaning the coil only to have the dripping start back up in two weeks will look to the customer like you're just guessing at the problem. And they'd be correct, because at this point you are only guessing. If OTOH, you find a leak in the coil first, then you can save yourself the trouble of cleaning it, and from the embarassment of cleaning it only to find that it didn't fix anything. HTH.
If there is no leak in the coil, then you're only out a few minutes time.
Problem solved. Boss wound up cleaning with leak detecting bubbles and said it cleared right up. He was impressed that I came up with the same answer that he got from tech support
Once again I'd like to thank everyone for their help. Been a member here for a while but starting to get more active.
You guys are awesome, expect for me to bug you more often
Another thought on this. Several manufactures have had similar problems. (Carrier, Trane, ect) Air flow can be the culprit but most likely the "wet-ability" of the coil surface causing water to not to run off into the drain properly. Check to see if the evaporator coil is level in case. Clean the coil with a good evaporator cleaner. Don't use home made stuff not made to clean evaporators. (Dish soap, dishwasher detergent, and grandma's special lineament. These could make it worse or even impede air flow) If a good cleaning does not work there are coil coating solvents made for this. Generally referred to as "wetting" agents. Trane use to sell one, this coating allows water to cling to fins until it reaches the drain pan. If all else fails some companies like Carrier use to make "Drip-a-lators" a spare part that has angled pieces of right angle fins about 3/4" apart and had little troughs in them to let them catch the dripping water off the middle of the coil and drain into the drain pan. Just remember anything you put in the airflow will change your external static and might make the situation worse. A final solution I found when the water was dripping off after the blower shut off, is to wire a time delay relay to the blower and have it run 5-10 minutes after the compressor (Y) satisfied to allow for the water to be evaporated before it collected and dropped off the middle of the coil. Just remember that this solution will only work in normal humidity situations where the air can re-absorb the excess water before it can drop off and may not always work 100% of the time.
Good luck and Happy Motoring!
"A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools."
This seems far fetched but, do the fins on the evap coil lead to the drain pan?
I was guessing the condensate was catching half way down on a horizontal fin evap which should have been horizontal or vise versa to lead to the drain pain.
Like to hear the end result on this one.
We had the same problem on a 15 ton Carrier split, we cleaned the evap coil with cal-brite and rinsed her down. Condensate drains properly now, we had water everywhere on the inside before hand. I heard that some oil residue on the evap coil from the factory causes this issue.
Water dripping solution
Our company had an issue with that same issue on a 3.5 ton rbhp. We coated the coil w/ tripple D and rinsed. Also increaded the fan delay to board max. So far so good, and its been a nearly 3 months.