I am not sure if unions would be allowed as it is taking apart the line. I believe it will need to be a fixed glued in device like a ball valve with a port. Not sure about it yet.
I prefer to put in a PVC union before the p-trap as ga-hvac-tech suggested. It allows us to clear the line without cutting it. Cutting and gluing it multiple times is just begging for a leak. Some techs just dry fit the joint together to avoid doing it again the next time, I've seen a number of leaks from those after someone bumped the drain line. I've never had a leak from a glued PVC union. The union also allows you to check the line back to the drain pan.
“I am for doing good to the poor, but...I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of it. I observed...that the more public provisions were made for the poor, the less they provided for themselves, and of course became poorer. And, on the contrary, the less was done for them, the more they did for themselves, and became richer.”
― Benjamin Franklin
Something I have seen... I would NOT do this: Is to dry-fit a coupling just outside the coil... then seal it with a piece of foil tape. If one carefully does the tape... it will not leak.
Personally... too much chance for someone to bump it later and break the tape.
One can always open the coil and blow from the pan...
Lets see what this new code says... and how it is interpreted. Each state is different... I hope GA (state, not me) does not go here for a while.
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A lot of times I install an open T right at the outlet of the trap. I just put a piece of pipe in it without gluing it & make sure its higher than the drain pan. I've never had a leak even with a clog that was passed the trap. It serves three purposes.
1 - I have a vent after the trap in case the line droops where I can't get to it & double traps.
2 - I can visually see which side of the trap my clog is on.
3 - I can pull out the stub & clean either side of the drain by plugging up one side of the T with a small rag or plastic.
If you have access to the drain termination outside I don't see any reason for any code that would make you have an access inside.
Maybe the code is for drains that do not solely terminate in an open accessible place or common drains that tie into a larger pipe that serves more than one unit. That would make more sense.
An engineer designs what he would never work on.
A technician works on what he would never design.
I use the the diversitech wet switches (hockey puck) that sit in the pan. All it takes is a couple of drops of water in the pan so even if the pan is not level this sensor will be set off way before it overflows so No need for two. They are a little pricey at 30$ each but cheap insurance.
Do you install anything in the drain line for access to clear the line or add chemicals?
What about an EZ-trap. It gives you a few of those red caps and a brush. If you line them up, you can poke the brush right to the front port of the coil drain. Also, anybody ever have the wet switch "hockey puck" get a little condensation under them and light up red. I had two of them do that this year, and there was not a drop of water in either pan, just a little wet under the fuzz of the hockey puck.
I used those years ago in florida but had the same problem with humidity in attic setting it off. Have you seen the jones valve www.jonesvalve.com or Easy klear?
What do you think of these.
Most of the problems with a standard switch is the pan will fill completely with water before the switch is activated.
In some cases, if the pan is not perfectly level and supported under every inch, the pan will fill up and before the switch cuts off the unit, it starts leaking from the corner that is the lowest point.
I use only the switches that sit in the pan,( hockey puck style) and not the ones that mount on the side, just to be safe, and I have never had one overflow on me.
One thing I do though is to put 2 small strips of rubber adhered to one side the switch,so there is a slight gap in between the switch and the pan.
We dont have humidity issues in norcal so i have never seen them falsely activate and ive installed hundreds to date.
Originally Posted by Cbssteve
I do love the clear schedule 40 ptraps they are now selling. Very quick visual to see if its clogged or not so i dont have to lug my nitro into the attic as much.
Any opinions on this for clearing drains?
Originally Posted by Barrettservices
I put a clear ptrap directly out of the coil then on the other side of the trap i use a T with a cap on top higher than the coil drain. After the trap i install a regular pvc ball valve. The theory is that you can close the valve and blow out the trap through the capped t and line into the coil then open the valve to let it flow again. The jones valve is a great idea and would need to be installed between the coil and trap to make it useful but the cost of 15-20$ a piece makes me not want to buy it when a regular valve and the way i set it up cost me about 5$. Besides i have never had a condensate line clog after the trap so a two valve has not been of any use in my market. I will try to get a pic to show you how i setup my drains.
Originally Posted by soaker