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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    84
    Quote Originally Posted by dijit View Post
    sorry to hijack, but how have your EZ traps held up over time. Do those red plastic caps ever leak?
    We have been installing them for years and the caps hold fine. Just be careful in areas that can freeze (attics, garages, etc.) as we have replaced a few ceilings from cracks. We install the bent PVC traps in areas that freeze with a clean out tee inline.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    658
    I can see putting a float switch on the primary and MAYBE one on the pan if it's a nice house

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Pompano Bch, S Fla
    Posts
    57
    Quote Originally Posted by clifpaul View Post
    I can see putting a float switch on the primary and MAYBE one on the pan if it's a nice house
    Nice house or not, if it causes damage you're responsible. Here it's code to have primary and secondary if in attic. Even if it wasn't I would still want the secondary. I think two in the pan is overkill but better too much than not enough.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    658
    Where I'm at only the primary is required to have a float switch. But after sleeping on it an extra is a good idea.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Ocean Pines, MD
    Posts
    6,984
    We have been using the Aqua Guard AG-2550E for a long time. Dual acting, drain line and pan.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    1,673
    Let's say a float switch can only fail by not closing or not opening.
    The paralleling of two (or more) switches helps the first problem but makes it at least 2x as likely that the combination will fail by not opening.
    If this happens will the pump motor burn, so instead of a flood you have a fire?

    Has anybody's float switch not closed when it was supposed to?
    Has anybody's float switch stayed closed and burned up a pump?

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    1,338
    Why would you parallel them? I would wire in series.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    84
    Quote Originally Posted by socotech View Post
    Why would you parallel them? I would wire in series.
    It works for roll-out switches + pressure switches, why make it more difficult?

    That being said, I have seen these guys wired 2 ways. First is to interrupt 24V coming off the transformer killing the unit entirely. Second, just kills the 24V to the condenser. I have also seen both configurations in the instructions. Which do you prefer? I'm all for shutting the entire system down. Is their any benefit from just killing the condenser? I think it would just delay the homeowner from knowing that they have a problem.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    459
    Quote Originally Posted by Tony3696 View Post
    It works for roll-out switches + pressure switches, why make it more difficult?

    That being said, I have seen these guys wired 2 ways. First is to interrupt 24V coming off the transformer killing the unit entirely. Second, just kills the 24V to the condenser. I have also seen both configurations in the instructions. Which do you prefer? I'm all for shutting the entire system down. Is their any benefit from just killing the condenser? I think it would just delay the homeowner from knowing that they have a problem.
    I agree. I like to kill power to the entire unit instead of just the condenser.

    IMO there's no overkill to when it comes to water "safeties". Personally I think a proper condensate drain is the most important part of a system. Unfortunately the most overlooked too when it comes to installs and also service such as cleaning/ checking them.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    1,338
    I like to kill the power to the entire system too.

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    1,673
    Quote Originally Posted by socotech View Post
    Why would you parallel them? I would wire in series.
    If you put them in series then only one of the two has to open for the pump to shut off and so this has a higher likelihood of shutting off when it is supposed to and a lower likelihood of turning on when it is supposed to, other things being equal (and they are probably not).

    Probability theory gets pretty messy pretty fast even for just two switches in a series or parallel connection and for networks of paralleled and series'ed switches (for redundancy) it's a nightmare.
    These circuits and the math that goes along with them are somewhere on the Web but of course I can't find it right now.

    The one sump pump float switch I hacksawed open had a steel ball that falls across two contacts, so it seems to me that the likelihood of it opening is maybe much higher than the likelihood of it closing properly. For two of these, I'd put them in parallel so only one has to close for the pump to start.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Houston,Tx.
    Posts
    15,953
    It would be nice if the mfg. installed a float switch in every primary pan. Float switches in primary lines only protect from the point there installed, if the primary pan stops up at the evap. the evap. condensate just runs over into the secondary, or plenum or on a vertical in a closet, on the floor below, then on to the carpet usually. I understand the secondary pan will protect were you can utilize a secondary pan, but why let it go this far? it's usually never a good thing when water comes out of a primary pan period.
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
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  13. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    1,338
    I wasn't saying series float switch for condensate pump. I was refering to aux pan safety switch.

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