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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    53

    Fire damper and exhaust fans

    I am working on a commercial project that has fire rated furnace rooms with horizontal units. I would like the verification on the thickness of metal for the sleeves of the fire dampers, and if you can use a 2x4 stud frame holding the damper in place, does it have to be covered with gypsum board per international fire code, what is the most cost effective way of installing the curtain dampers with the rooms all currently drywalled out. Thinking about using metal studs attached to the wood walls. The dampers are 20x20 in size and the biggest is 24x24, is 24 gauge sleeves sufficient. The same project has exhaust fans that are supposed to be insulated hard pipe in the attic, why does this have to be insulated when it is exhaust to the outside from the rooms.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Upper Michigan
    Posts
    3,055
    I remember when we would do them we would use angle iron but I think 24 was ok too. Then round dampers we would use fire caulk. The last ones I did were masonary walls so not sure about wood framed.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    3,441
    16 gauge
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    3,441
    Why insulate:

    Because it may exhausting 68-72 air degree up through the attic which may be 130-140 degrees, and would drip water all over. Kinda like a cold can of coke set outside on a hot day. In the winter, water would run down inside the exhaust duct.
    Always here

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    2,050
    You need to follow the manufactures installation instructions for the dampers you are using. All brands are not the same. The instructions have framing details which will advise on wether you need drywall in the openings. Ive never seen this done, but have also never seen wood studs on a job with fire dampers.

    Sleeves can probably be the same gage as the duct work, as long as you have "break away connections" which are described in the instructions. They dont need to be 16 gage unless you dont have break away connections.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    3,441
    http://www.greenheck.com/media/pdf/m...3March2008.pdf


    Also, this info should be in the project spec book and detailed on M prints.
    Always here

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    2,050
    Quote Originally Posted by energy star View Post
    http://www.greenheck.com/media/pdf/m...3March2008.pdf


    Also, this info should be in the project spec book and detailed on M prints.
    This basically says light (a lot less than 16) gage sleeve if you have a "break away" connection. A break away connection is defined in another section of the instructions. For most brands a break away connection can be s&drive, s-locks, tdf/ductmate, tdf/tdf, ductmate/ductmate, etc...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    3,441
    Yes, very aware of what it says. Been there, done that.
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    2,050
    Quote Originally Posted by energy star View Post
    Yes, very aware of what it says. Been there, done that.
    My apologies. I thought you were earlier saying the sleeves had to be 16 gage. They can definately be lighter gage with the breakaway joints.

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