outdoor unit is an A/C only unit, R22 dry ship. Indoor may have strip heaters if your in an area that needs heat once in a while.
They may not have the proper metering device in the indoor unit.
Got a nice little mismatch here but being straight cool, probably not bad enough to affect performance that much. Efficiency could be compromised a bit. Were you in there with the old system? Was it a Payne A/C that matched the air handler? Any idea what kind of failure the old outdoor unit had?
Originally Posted by beenthere
I was here before the old system was replaced but, unfortunately, I was not able to note the specs of the system that was replaced.
Originally Posted by BaldLoonie
All I know is that the fins of the condenser unit was at least 50% damaged when it was pelted by hail last March.
I have a pix of the old condenser.
Note that the front and the left side have the same damage since that was the direction the hail was coming from.
Does that look like cosmetic damage.
At least that's how one of the AC techs described it to the property manager which she actually believed even when I showed it to her.
Condenser Info Tag:
Originally Posted by V3212
Originally Posted by V3212
Evaporator Info Tag:
with tag info posted, looks like an air handler and it shows TXV as metering device.
evap, if read correctly, appears to be a size match to cond unit- 3 ton.
you definitely have an issue, but without being there and the info you posted, we can only offer educated WAGs; incorrect refrig, incorrect fan speed, improper operation of TXV, leaking duct work, etc.
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from an excerpt by Paul Jacob in Sun City, AZ
Cost of a complete system check (including duct work)
I'll have to go with what all of you are recommending i.e. to hire a pro to check the whole system - duct work & all.
Originally Posted by pacnw
Since it will be coming out of my own pocket & am not expecting any reimbursement, would anyone know how much it would cost to have everything checked out by a REAL CERTIFIED PRO & not just by someone who may have been certified but does not really know what they are doing?
It's that or my electric bill goes through the roof while my family suffers.
BTW, the house I'm renting is a bungalow that has a living area of about 1600 sq ft.
Your landlord might object to you hiring outside help to look at their equipment. Or might not. Either way I would contact the landlord and express your intentions.
Providing landlord gives green light, next challenge is to find a certified, competent pro who wants to work on rental property. Contractors can be reluctant to do this because prior experience with landlords objecting or tenants not paying leaves a bad aftertaste.
- Electricity makes refrigeration happen.
- Refrigeration makes the HVAC psychrometric process happen.
- HVAC pyschrometrics is what makes indoor human comfort happen...IF the ducts AND the building envelope cooperate.
A building is NOT beautiful unless it is also comfortable.
In your extreme situation; if U really want help; there is some temperature data you can collect prior to getting permission to call an expert tech.
I know it seems like a lot; however, this is not difficult when U do it a step at a time & log the data. It must be done within the same time sequence to be meaningful...
All U need is a good thermometer (digital reading in tenths preferable) & and indoor Humidity Gauge
1) Tonnage & SEER of Unit &/or outdoor condenser model number: __________________
2) TXV or, orifice metering device? TXV. Only if U know…
3) Outdoor condenser’s discharge-air-temperature ______-F
Subtract Outdoor air temperature: _______
Outdoor Condenser Air-Temp-Split _______
4) Need the ‘Indoor’ percent of relative humidity - in the middle of the rooms or, at Return-Air inlet grilles ___
5) Indoor Return-Air Temperature ______
Subtract Indoor Supply-Air Temperature ______ -F
Indoor temperature-split _______-F
If U can find a turn in the small liquid line insulate the temperature-probe; get its temperature for the subcooling analysis:
Small liquid line temperature ____F
To measure return air the wet bulb temp, wrap a small/thin, wet (not dripping) piece of cloth around the probe and put it into the Return Air grille & then close to the closest Supply Air diffuser near the air handler (need air movement). Wait until the temperature stabilizes - may take a little while.
Return Air wet bulb ____F
Supply Air Wet Bulb ____F
Need the above information for troubleshooting & performance analysis.
A Goodman 2-Ton 13-SEER condenser, @800-cfm indoor airflow; 80-F indoor dry bulb & 50% relative humidity; Indoor temp-split 18 to 19-F.
@ 85-F outdoors; 103.9-F - 85-F outdoors or around an 18.9-F temp-split;
@Indoor 75-F, 63-wet bulb around 50% RH - condenser temp-split is only 14.9F.
A Tech: Below is helpful
Indoor Total-ESP - External Static Pressure ______
You or Tech- All Supply Air velocities in FPM: ______
Measure supply register louvered area.
We’ll do the math for the total CFM ______
Tech: Suction line pressure _____
Suction-Vapor line temperature: ______
Tech: Saturated Suction Temp – Gage - Suction Saturated Temperature. ____
Tech- Superheat ______
Tech- Head pressure _______
Tech- SCT – Gage - Saturated Condensing Temp _______
Tech- Small Liquid line - temperature: _______
You/me/Tech- Subcooling: _______
Return Air temp Dry Bulb &, Wet Bulb & %RH: _______
Tech- Supply Air temp DB, WB &/or %RH: _______
Make sure the Tech does the above plus, checks the discharge temperature of the compressor _____ Too high above 225-F or too low a temp indicates problems that need attention.
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