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Thread: Disconect

  1. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North carolina
    Posts
    42
    Thanks for all the answers i didn't think there was much repair work that could be done to it other than checking for tight connections and i did that. and yes it is the cheap grey resi non fused pull out type not to be confused with the lever type pictured a few post back

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    84
    Whenever an electrical component is proven faulty, just replace it. Its safer for everyone involved and you can sleep well at night. We only install the disconnects with the GFI outlets on them (single phase residential) it makes life much easier in the future.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    362
    Can someone link the disconnects with the gfci in it? I've never seen one I don't think.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts
    1,345
    Quote Originally Posted by matt1124 View Post
    Can someone link the disconnects with the gfci in it? I've never seen one I don't think.
    I don't think I have ever seen one either. How are the outlets wired up? Do you have to pull a separate neutral and hot wire from the breaker panel to make them work?

    Is an outlet required near the condensing unit on residential stuff per code? I know that they are required for commercial roof-top units, but am not sure about residential.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    St. Louis
    Posts
    3,507
    Quote Originally Posted by shaworth1 View Post
    always replace a suspected faulty disconnect, there not that expensive and the homeowner deserves as safe a system as possible.
    A few blocks away a very reputable contractor put in a shiny new Bryant with the existing disconnect. A few days later the HO heard a small explosion and came out to see the disconnect on fire and melting the siding. Now if I see any rust on the lugs or other problems on an install I'll change them even if the shop has to send one over.

    I don't need to be thinking about a questionable disconnect as I'm trying to drift of to sleep.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    29
    I've ran into a disconnect that was 3 phase 240v 60amp that the bar inside was loose. It would only energize L3 and it was missing a metal piece to make the bar push up L1 and 2. I just replaced it didn't want another tech dying from L1 and 2 staying energized.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Southeastern Pa
    Posts
    18,905
    In my pic above, only the A phase is connected to the bar...
    [Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
    2 Tim 3:16-17

    RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist

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  8. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    4,740
    Most disconnects i find bad are connected to aluminum wire with no goo on it

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    84
    Quote Originally Posted by ammoniadog View Post
    I don't think I have ever seen one either. How are the outlets wired up? Do you have to pull a separate neutral and hot wire from the breaker panel to make them work?

    Is an outlet required near the condensing unit on residential stuff per code? I know that they are required for commercial roof-top units, but am not sure about residential.
    I can't remember the mfg, I will find out tomorrow and post a pic. It's looks like a regular pull style disconnect just with an GFI outlet beneath it.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    586
    Quote Originally Posted by Tony3696 View Post
    I can't remember the mfg, I will find out tomorrow and post a pic. It's looks like a regular pull style disconnect just with an GFI outlet beneath it.
    http://www.amazon.com/Siemens-WN2060...ect+Gfci+Panel

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Cincinnati, Oh
    Posts
    5,102
    Quote Originally Posted by ammoniadog View Post
    I don't think I have ever seen one either. How are the outlets wired up? Do you have to pull a separate neutral and hot wire from the breaker panel to make them work?

    Is an outlet required near the condensing unit on residential stuff per code? I know that they are required for commercial roof-top units, but am not sure about residential.
    NEC requires a outlet with 20', on new installations/relocations. Not replacements.

    We've "attempted" to install one we had at the shop. Bossman claims it works, using the 220v.

    Which, it doesn't. On those disconnects, you must run 2 circuits. One for 220v, one for 110v. Unless you try and hack it in and put neutral to ground.

    Just pray you don't become a shorter path to ground when you plug in.
    Or that you pull higher than 15 amps, and it catches fire because it's protected by the breaker sized for the A/C, not the outlet.

    The reason they make them, is so you don't have to mount a seperate outdoor rated recepticle box.
    "Better tell the sandman to stay away, because we're gonna be workin on this one all night."

    "Dude, you need more than 2 wires to a condenser to run a 2 stage heatpump."

    "Just get it done son."

    Dad adjusted

  12. #25
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    362
    I figured that's what it was. You'd either have to be lucky enough to find a neutral capped off in the existing disconnect or run new wire. "Siemens - for when the lowest bid gets the job!"

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    702
    Here's one I just recently replaced.

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