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  1. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    6,372
    Quote Originally Posted by central nj View Post
    Mr. T. Bear,
    But what percent of the time are the homes with adequately sized/just undersized conditioners needing a dehumidifier? Why didn't anyone else who commented mention a dehumidifier (not sure how to interpret beenthere's comment)?

    I'm thinking also that I could make the first stage, 2 tons, my little work horse. I know there is a switch on the zone panel for 1 hour on first stage. So even two zones calling, still 2 tons. Perhaps that would help. Another question would be just how much worse are the higher seer/big coils at dehumidification? A 5 ton 8 seer running for 15 minutes---would it dehumidify about as much as a 2.5 ton 16 seer running for 30 minutes? (if so, my current crappy set up controls humidity perfectly, so I think I would be fine).

    Steve
    The need of a dehumidifier depends on the weather and your need for a near perfect comfort and indoor air quality. Some are more demanding than others. These a/c guys pride themselves on being able to condition a home with just an a/c. In a basement home a dehumidifier is an absolute must unless you want to your home to smell like a basement.
    If you do not want the most comfort possible, disregard my suggestions. I have been data logging homes for the last 20 years and I can assure that when the outdoor dew points are high without high cooling loads, your home will become damp inside unless you have some supplemental dehumidification. During low dew point weather, it is not a problem.
    A single speed a/c setup properly will maintain <50%RH any time it can operate for 3-4 hours. As the hours pass after operation, the indoor moisture will rise to above outside levels depending on the number of occupants and the amount of ventilation/infiltration amounts.
    Multi-speed and even the VS a/cs are unable to remove moisture with a significant cooling load. The a/cs remove 1-2 lbs. of per KW, while high efficiency dehus remove 4-7 pints of moisture per KW. For the price of the multi-speed a/c, you can have regular a/c and a small whole house dehumidifier. Check out the Ultra-Aire/Santa Fe/Honeywell etc.
    Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Rochester NY
    Posts
    4,722
    Quote Originally Posted by teddy bear View Post
    The need of a dehumidifier depends on the weather and your need for a near perfect comfort
    Nicely put. I find as my knowledge grows, or maybe it's aging, I'm more aware of iaq, humidity, and temperature. I'm often surprised by what people subject themselves to when I visit their homes.

    Absurdly high energy bills, submitting themselves to discomfort on masochistic levels, and extraordinary attempts to "save" by buying fraudulent products such as incredibly expensive "magic" resistance heaters.

    I guess we are all ignorant until we know better.
    Which makes more sense to you?
    CONSERVATION - turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10%
    ENERGY EFFICIENCY - leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%

    DO THE NUMBERS! Step on a HOMESCALE.
    What is comfort? Well, it AIN'T just TEMPERATURE!

    Energy Obese? An audit is the next step - go to BPI.org, or RESNET, and find an auditor near you.

  3. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Keokuk, IA
    Posts
    5,520
    ... or we just makes mistakes, try to learn from them and improve in the future.

    In very hot weather, many customers will simply not like having a properly sized system. Its' the same reason that 99.99% of the time most cars with V6's will never ever see full throttle anwhere above the 3/4 mpark in RPM. That's means you're likely only using 2/3rds of the available power.

    As an anology, most cars larger than a compact will rarely see full throttle. But Americans in particular have trained themselves to beleive that the truely need that extra power and capacity even if it results in a heavier, less efficient and more expensive vehicle. I personally really just want a resonable priced midsized wagon with about a 1.5 liter turbocharged 4 cylinder engine with a small battery and electric motors for the rear wheels only for low speed traction and acceleration and slightly better city fuel economy. It could probably get 30mpg city/35hwy with a CVT and weigh around 3300lbs... 700lbs less than a SUV with similar space.

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