Reply68 is not right. And it has nothing to do with seer rating.
You're either moving WAY, WAY too much air, (doubtful), or there is some other problem.
A good tech will take several different readings, and should be able to find the problem.
Regular Guest
My first floor system is an old 10 SEER York 2T installed 1992. Flawless from day one, has only had routine maintenance, capacitor and contactor replaced, 5 2 1 start kit installed. Current temp outside 85 - unit running - air from registers is 57 degrees - works beautifully.
My second floor unit is a 2 year old Goodman 16 SEER w/variable air handler 2.5T. Current outside temp 85, air output from registers is 68 degrees. (moves way more air than first floor as I guess is expected in a higher SEER unit?)
Both units have TRION High Voltage electronic air cleaners w/ MERV 8 pre filters. Both have UVC in line.
Why would there be such a discrepancy in output temps? Why would the second floor always 'feel' more humid though the temps regulate just fine? I can take a 1st vs 2nd floor humidity reading if needed.
It it just the nature of these higher SEER units?
Professional Member*
68 is not right. And it has nothing to do with seer rating.
You're either moving WAY, WAY too much air, (doubtful), or there is some other problem.
A good tech will take several different readings, and should be able to find the problem.
"Hey Lama, hey, how about a little something, you know, for the effort." And he says, "there won't be any money, but when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness." So I got that goin' for me, which is nice. - Carl Spackler
Professional Member*
I can think of many different things to cause it to perform poorly.
The list gets longer the longer I think about it.
Have a technician take a look at it.
“I am for doing good to the poor, but...I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of it. I observed...that the more public provisions were made for the poor, the less they provided for themselves, and of course became poorer. And, on the contrary, the less was done for them, the more they did for themselves, and became richer.”
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It's difficult to forecast issues when we have very limited info. For example, we know not what the indoor temperature is, therefore we cannot see a temperature drop across the indoor coils. Old units looked for a steeper TD, on the order of 20-25°F. Newer units are designed for a smaller TD, 17°-20°F. So return air temp, on a properly sized, installed and charged system is more of the determining factor in actual supply air temperature. However, the operative work in the previous sentence is PROPERLY. If the system is not properly sized, installed (duct system too) or charged, then all kinds of readings can be affected.
If YOU want change, YOU have to first change.
If you are waiting for the 'other guy' to change first, just remember, you're the 'other guy's' other guy. To continue to expect real change when you keep acting the same way as always, is folly. Won't happen. Real change will only happen when a majority of the people change the way they vote!
God Speed, Jim. We'll miss you - 2-26-23
Goodman 16 SEER units often use a much larger indoor air handler then the outdoor unit. Good chance your installers left it set to factory settings, which is probably moving way too much air.
Post model number of both the indoor and outdoor unit.
Regular Guest
GSC140301AOriginally Posted by beenthere
AEPF313716
dip switches set for on 1 2 4 5 6 8
off 3 and 7
Outdoor temp 85
Indoor 73
starts off slow and then blows alot of air, way more than the York 1st floor older unit.
God Speed, Jim. We'll miss you - 2-26-23
Dip switches are set right. May not be charged right, or something else could be wrong.
Sponsor & Professional Member*
Have the tech slow the air flow to obtain the indoor dew point desired. Dropping the temp to 50-55^F is close to the 55^F dew point. This would result in 75^F, <50%RH.
Regards TB
Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
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Ducts in the attic? That can kill performance right there. If the 1st floor unit has a basement furnace, that helps since the ducts are in a cold basement.
And as the boys say, high SEER especially with too much air, doesn't give the drop of an oldie.
Regular Guest
I can't help where the duct work is located.
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Last edited by beenthere; 08-04-2012 at 08:25 PM. Reason: Non Pro * Member
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Last edited by beenthere; 08-04-2012 at 08:26 PM. Reason: Non Pro * Member
Regular Guest
The return is 72 discharge 68 outside temp 82
about 1300 sq ft 4 second floor bedrooms, 2 BR, hallway, 2 story entryway
(It seems to cool off fine and may be oversized thus not running long enough to dehumidify - I wonder if I reverse DIP 7 and 8 yielding -15% cfm if that would help)
I can measure the pressures but was afraid I'd violate the DIY rules.
God Speed, Jim. We'll miss you - 2-26-23
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AOP Committee/Professional Member*
Okay, it took a while to find the 16-SEER 2.5-Ton single stage Goodman but here it is: using 85F outdoors; @ 850-CFM; 24,100-Btuh
70F IDB; 59F-IWB or, 52.47% RH; 19F indoor temp-drop, Not 4F, Coil is NOT cold enough to dehumidify.
HI PR 279-psig; Lo PR 124-psig; 2.06-KW; 6.3-amps
If it feels way too humid: @ 1350-CFM 63-IWB 68% RH; 13F temp-drop a lot lower due in large part to increase in humidity latent load; total of 28,000-Btuh.
There are major problems that need addressing; first get a CFM airflow check & get it down to 1000 or even 850-CFM so it dehumidifies.
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udarrell
Regular Guest
Air handler appears to be set for 1020 CFM.
I'll knock it down -15% and see how it changes.
If that is not enough decrease in air flow and assuming for now the charge is proper, would changing the filter to a MERV 13 from a MERV 8 help? My reading through the forums seems to indicate you folks favor the MERV 8. (Unfortunately this system only has provision for 1" filters 16x20)
Sponsor & Professional Member*
Using a higher merv filter will slow air flow. Enough????
Regards TB
Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
Regular Guest
83 outside.
I dropped the CFM by 15% using the DIP switches on the control board. Outlet Temp went from 68 down to 59 --
73 inlet
Swapped the MERV 8 for MERV 13 Outlet down to 56 - still moving alot of air. We'll give it some time and see how the humidity does.
My thanks to all those that responded and may continue to respond.
AOP Committee/Professional Member*
Well, if U were using a cheap fiberglass throwaway filter the velocity would be around 665-FPM; when initial velocity, according to manual D, through a clean throwaway filter ought to be 300-FPM.
If possible, just go to a lower speed setting.
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udarrell
AOP Committee/Professional Member*
Well, U got the temp-drop to 14F; with a high humidity latent load that could be okay; under normal conditions 18 to 19F would be normal.83 outside.
I dropped the CFM by 15% using the DIP switches on the control board. Outlet Temp went from 68 down to 59 --
73 inlet
Swapped the MERV 8 for MERV 13 Outlet down to 56 - still moving a lot of air. We'll give it some time and see how the humidity does.
My thanks to all those that responded and may continue to respond.
However, a 2.5-Ton 16-SEER; 85-F outdoor temp; 1350-CFM; @75-IDB; 67-IWB, about 67% RH; indoor temp-split would only be 13F...you're at 73F RA temp verses 75F; 83 outdoor verses 85F; we don't know what the actual %humidity is.
With the higher pressure-drop filter; not best option; the drop went to 17F.
If U get the air flow right; low enough; it should begin to dehumidify.
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udarrell
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