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Thread: Mini Fridge repair
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08-11-2012, 06:14 PM #14
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08-11-2012, 06:28 PM #15
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08-11-2012, 08:02 PM #16
Or economics... Purchase a vacuum pump, micron gauge, manifold and gauges, charging scale, copper and fittings, torch set, brazing rod, digital thermometer, etc... maybe a $1,700 investment for tools and supplies alone.
-or-
A new dorm fridge for $99.
A lot of engineering for your particular application. Compressor size (capacity), refrigerant, refrigerant charge, metering device, coil size, air flow, ambient temperature, designed box temperature. (and a little technical competency).
Overcharging a system will lead to higher evap pressures and poor refrigeration performance, sure, but will have other consequences including higher head pressure, and higher mechanical and electrical stress on the compressor, possible flood back to the compressor, etc.
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08-11-2012, 09:43 PM #17
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How do you fit 5 gal. of wort in one of those little frdg's?? Add cold water to the 2 gal. boil and let set for a few drinks and its ready to pitch the yest. Don't worry have a home brew.. In the winter I set the brew pot outside on the cold concrete for awhile and its down to temp..
In GOD We Trust
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08-12-2012, 10:00 AM #18
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08-12-2012, 10:21 AM #19
Since I have worked on some small Boat systems I'll tell you something... Throw it Away. These small fridges have an extremely small cap tube. The odds are if you put a torch on it, you'll have so much trash inside the system it wouldn't work anyway.
If it's about spending the money, look for a used one (but don't buy a Haier. The compressors only last about 2 or 3 years.)
It's a $100.00 education.Yes, I know I Shouldn't But I Just Can't Help Myself...
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08-12-2012, 11:28 AM #20
You shouldn't have any "trash" in the system if you purge nitrogen through while brazing in a proper suction access fitting, and new bullet drier with the high side fitting. I have done this many times, with perfect results, I use pressures and amp draw to achieve proper operation when the data plate is missing or if I increase the system volume by the addition of a larger drier/extra piping.
And I can tell you that even on the high side of the system, the refrig epoxy that I used has held for 14 years now. Never had a failure and I use that only when brazing is not an option, and even once come to think of it when I had no vacuum pump available. System pressure at or just above atmospheric preventing infiltration of air into system. Epoxy set up in 20 minutes and charged up within an hour. Didn't expect it to be anything more than a temp repair but it worked great.
Normally after sanding/roughing up leak area, and then wiping down with alcohol pad, I will mix epoxy, apply all the way around the tube if possible, then after five minutes, start vacuum pump. This pulls epoxy into leak enough to create a good seal and not enough to plug up the line. I have cut into the line afterward and visually confirmed this. This epoxy states it has a 4000psi working strength so it covers anything we work on...
My advice to the OP is to place an ad for a home brewing friendly reefer tech to assist you and in turn you help him get into making home brew or trade him some skills you have (ie. home reno, landscaping, what have you...)
Unless you have the right tools and experience, your sentimental college fridge just became a lampstand.
PS. If you don't want it to stink inside, you better prop the door open. Once food or organics have been stored inside, bacteria on the inner surfaces will grow and make it a large petri dish.
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08-22-2012, 12:35 AM #21
buy a new fridge
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08-22-2012, 11:59 AM #22
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08-24-2012, 05:45 PM #23
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