Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 13 of 28
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    6

    Confused

    I've had a gas fireplace for about 5 years in my master bedroom and it has worked fine ... until recently.

    The problem is that when I turn the fireplace on (via a switch on the wall), the fireplace fires up and all is good. Then after about 4 minutes both the fireplace flame and the pilot light kick off. I relight the pilot light and the same thing happens after a few minutes of turning the flame on.

    I had a service man come out and he fiddled with it for a couple of hours. He replaced the millivolt generator (G01A-332), but the problem still occurs. He seemed perplexed. He offerred to replace the gas valve but said it would cost $XXX.

    Does anyone have any ideas on what I should check. I've checked all the wires and don't think the connections are bad.

    I measured the voltage being generated by the millivolt generator. With just the pilot flame, it reads 555mv. When the main burner kicks on, it drops to 279mv. Is it supposed to drop down when the main burner kicks on?

    [Edited by jrbenny on 08-30-2006 at 11:25 AM]

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    33
    Is this a vent free fireplace? a direct vent? or b-vent? Do you have glass doors covering the fire? Sounds like a fresh air problem to me. We've had this problem on a few newly installed vent free fireplaces, none that have been operational for 5 years though. You might check that your fresh air intake isn't blocked in some way or another. Just a suggestion...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Lancaster,Ohio
    Posts
    464
    What is the make and model of the gas logs? Have you replaced or added any other gas appliances in your home?
    Are the gas logs / fireplace vent-less?
    Have you noticed any difference in the flame or noise?
    IcyFlame

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    6
    The fireplace is a MARCO model #794177A. It is encased in glass and is vented.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    6
    Thanks for your help. The fireplace is a MARCO. Model # is 79477A. It is encased in glass and is vented.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    6
    The flame is strong, then all of a sudden I hear a click (coming from the gas valve I assume) and everything shuts off including the pilot light. The flame doesn't change color or flicker or anything prior to the click of death.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    108
    I have seen direct vent units where the vent gases are being pulled into the intake due to ...

    1 Damaged Cap ( Wont work with out it)
    2 Disconnected vent at F\P ( expensive to fix )
    3 Vent corrision ( flex direct venting )

    Thermopile's and thermocouples is the problem most of the time . Those fake ambers placed ontop of or near the pilot light can cause problems. Get a second opinion before you change the gas valve. Call the manufacture of the unit and ask for service dealer # and call them to look at it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Vancouver Canada
    Posts
    996
    Can be a real son of a ***** to diagnose and fix fireplace pilot outages. Most times the techs will do exactly what yours did, change the tcouple or powerpile. Doesn't fix the problem most of the time. Gas pressure can be too high causing the pilot to lift off the thermopile. Put your meter on the unit while it is operating and keep watching to see if the voltage changes. I'll bet it keeps dropping when the unit gets hot and drops out when it gets too low. Sometimes the only solution is get the thermocouple or thermopile more into the pilot flame. Have to bend the hood on the pilot a little bit. Could also be a venting issue where you are getting too much draft on the vent and it is causing the pilot to pull away from the tcouple. Sorry but you just have to take some time and observe what is happening with the pilot flame. One other thought, is there a high limit anywhere in the system? This will certainly cause problems when the unit gets hot if it is weak.
    "Go big or Go Home"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Powell River, BC, Canada
    Posts
    763
    Could be anything from a bad EPU on gas valve to a weak vent safety/hi limit switch to high circuit resistance. There is a proper testing sequence that will tell you if the components themselves are working. A good tech should be able to run through it in 1/2 hour. (barring any damaged or corroded fasteners) If everything checks out then it is a matter of observation and experience to determine the problem. If the problem can be repeated while the tech is there, he should be able to determine the cause. It's the ones that only happen AFTER you leave that get you. If he was there for 2 hours with a repeatable problem, you need another tech!
    Where are you? Are you done yet? I got ONE more call for you.....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,666
    Did the mv drop below 279 when it finally cut out?

    200- 250 mv is about as low as you would want to see when the main valve is on. I would try replacing the wall switch. If that doesn't help then you are only out a few bucks and a little time.

    Typically the wall switch for the fireplace used is the incorrect one, (for 120 volt), not the millivolt (with silver contacts) and the resistance gets worse over time because it is not designed for a fraction of a volt.

    95% of the time its not the gas valve thats the problem.

    If that doesn't solve it and he replaces the gas valve I would hope they will eat that time replacing a good gas valve.

    It could be any number of things as pointed out by others here.


  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Huntsville,AL
    Posts
    4,125
    why did you not post this in the fireplace forum?
    harvest rainwater,make SHADE,R75/50/30= roof/wall/floor, use HVAC mastic,caulk all wall seams!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Posts
    358
    May not be the problem, but there is a combustion air vent on one or both sides of the burnner. Fairly small slots that meter the air to the flame. These will clog up with lint/dust, especially in a bedroom, and might cause the fire to draw away from the thermocouple. Or maybe there is another type safety on this. But look real close at the sides of the burner. Hard to see and hard to detect the clogged area.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Vancouver Canada
    Posts
    996
    I agree I have seen the combustion air plugged with lint and stuff. Also check the air holes on the pilot assemble itself some are also prone to becoming clogged causing a weak pilot.
    "Go big or Go Home"

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image