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Thread: How many tons is my unit?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SW FL
    Posts
    13,331
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    Thumbs down Damper

    Designer Dan __ It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with Some Art. _ _ KEEP IT SIMPLE & SINCERE ___ __ www.mysimplifiedhvac.com ___ __ Define the Building Envelope & Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows & Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    20
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    Thread Starter
    Hi Dan,
    I checked out the URL for the motorized damper.
    Can you tell me what actuates the motor? Is this an
    automatic thing or would this be connected to a switch?
    I was confused about your statement that the damper should be closed when the exhaust fan is on. I would have thought the opposite. Wouldn't you want incoming air when the exhaust fan is expelling air?

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    13
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    HISTORY

    The best idea I can get from a customer on solving their situation is past history. How long have you lived there? For example how does the unit perform each summer? each winter? Are there cold spots or hotspots in the home? If the unit does exceedingly well you posibly can add to the load. However you will need to redistribute the air with properly placed grilles. This will require proper duct modification. Just "tapping" into the existing duct might "rob" other areas in the home. To get proper air distribution will require dampers in each branch located at the beginning of the branch duct nearest to the "trunk",not at the grille. The guys have advised nicely to have the homes load calculated by a professional. I would recommend a test and balance report combined with load calculations with and without the new improvements. This is the most accurate method. However, like mentioned your knowlege of the homes history in cooling and heating will help make the decision easier to confirm. Remember to keep the filters changed and the equipment serviced.......

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Derby City
    Posts
    4,120
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    Call a Professional. And I am talking about someone coming out and looking at the job so that they have a basis for making their recommendations and suggestions. We are trying to do so sight unseen. It is unfair to us and you. Oh by the way, did I say call a professional? All the best, John.
    Everyone has a purpose in life..........even if it's to be a bad example.

    Seek first to understand, before seeking to be understood.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    20
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    Thread Starter
    Thanks John and cheoelleon for your input and suggestions.
    I've pretty much decided that I will not tap into
    the existing system.
    Given that; and given that I'm trying to save some money
    by DIY'ing, any suggestions as to how to set up this porch
    with a ductless, a/c/heat unit with also a separate exhaust fan for smoke exhausting? I think this is a much more self-contained question that can probably be answered in a forum. And, I agree that tapping into the main system was something that a pro should be involved with.
    My questions at this point are:
    1. Any recommedations for size of the ductless unit to service approximately 300 square feet? I got the impression that it would probably require a 12 to 1500 btu unit. Any suggestions for good brand, but also good price?
    2. If I include a 500 btu inline exhaust fan in this configuration, should I just crack a window when running it, or could I get some kind of damper that opens when it runs? Would one open automatically due to pressure when the fan turns on?

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    13
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    sunroom

    I would have to see the structure and the space available to determine the best solution with your budget. If you want a temporary solution, you might try a portable water evaporator for under$100 that rolls around with remote and 110v. electrical demand. The ventilation might be solved for the smoking by using the evap. & opening some windows for fresh air intake. However, your local humidity & the application of the room will determine this option. For example if it is furnished and designed in a manner that the higher humidity would destroy materials, I would not choose the water evaporator or "swamp cooler". Remember that you want to keep a positive atmospheric pressure within your home. When a building has more air being exhausted than is capable of supplying, it becomes available thru window seals, door seals, ect. This creates a suction on the home pulling in pollens, dust and other undesireables. An easy test to perform is take a strip of about 3-4 sheets of toilet tissue and open an exterior door about 6-8 inches and let the tissue dangle. The tissue will either swing inward or outward. Thus indicating the pressure. (note: this must be performed with all air distribution devices in operation. Ex:a/c or heat, stove hood,bathroom exhaust,dryer.) Remember your choice to smoke in this room creates the situation of removing the smoke, which means that the air supplied to the room has to be cleaned or removed entirely.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    20
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    Thread Starter
    Thanks again cheoelleon.
    Looks like I'll have to do some more research.

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