Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    119

    Trane open drive mod. e seal

    Trane open drive mod. e seal.Need to do a seal on an old unit, not sure of unit model, but will i need to move the motor to relace the seal? thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Windsor, Ont.
    Posts
    499
    Never had 1 yet that motor was a problem.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    45th Parallel
    Posts
    954
    Quote Originally Posted by Dilp172 View Post
    Trane open drive mod. e seal.Need to do a seal on an old unit, not sure of unit model, but will i need to move the motor to relace the seal? thanks
    Possibly.. you might get lucky,,, but, usually easier to move the motor.
    You're going to need to check alignment anyway.
    “If your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.” ~Henry J. Kaiser

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    235
    I always leave the motor in place, you should always align after. Make sure you dont drop out the the thrust washers on the crank when you pull the seal.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    12,462
    I doubt you have to move the motor - but if you do, and the alignment is good now, I would loosen the rear endbell and move the rotor back to get clearance for the seal replacement. Just leave the motor base bolted in place.

    PHM
    ------





    Quote Originally Posted by Dilp172 View Post
    Trane open drive mod. e seal.Need to do a seal on an old unit, not sure of unit model, but will i need to move the motor to relace the seal? thanks
    PHM
    --------
    The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of thinking.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Prattville, Alabama
    Posts
    2,063
    Quote Originally Posted by Poodle Head Mikey View Post
    I doubt you have to move the motor - but if you do, and the alignment is good now, I would loosen the rear endbell and move the rotor back to get clearance for the seal replacement. Just leave the motor base bolted in place.

    PHM
    ------
    Neat trick, PHM. Have you had success using this on other coupled motors, like pumps?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    12,462

    Been doing it for years -

    It started when the friggin motor shop guys / millwrights would pull the drive motors for bearing replacement and then I would be left doing an all-day alignment. I started changing the bearings myself without removing the motor and so saving all or most of the realignment.

    In fact; before he changes the seal on this machine he should listen to the bearings with a stethoscope and change them too if they are at all noisy. While his hands are already dirty and all that. The bearings will "hum" if they are OK and rumble and grumble if they are getting tired. This is exactly why everyone needs to listen to known-good bearings - so they know the difference.

    PHM
    ------



    Quote Originally Posted by Nuclrchiller View Post
    Neat trick, PHM. Have you had success using this on other coupled motors, like pumps?
    PHM
    --------
    The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of thinking.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Prattville, Alabama
    Posts
    2,063
    I like to change couplings without moving the motor, when there is enough of a gap between the shafts. Now I know what I can do when the gap is too small. The funny thing is, I've changed bearings in place, too. I just never thought to use one procedure to help me do the other. Thanks for the tip.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    119
    Thanks,I finished the job and didnt have to move the motor,P.H.M. i like the idea of moving the endbell to avoid realingment.

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