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Thread: Trane XR14 or XR15?

  1. #1
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    Confused Trane XR14 or XR15?

    Hi newbie here, I need to buy an outdoor unit for my 2100 sq ft home in Savannah Ga. I have it narrowed down to 2 Trane systems. The first is a Trane XR 15 3.5ton system with a 15 seer rating. The other is a Trane XB 14, 4ton system with a 15 seer rating. Both units are priced the same and I can't decide if I should go with the 3.5 ton XR15 or the 4 ton XB14 ? I have a variable speed hyperion indoor unit (air handler I think its called) installed already, and my home is Spray Foam insulated, no Fiberglass insulation (if that helps) I just want to know what will be the best "bang" for my buck, and what are the major differences, which unit can best handle Hot Georgia weather and which system will be cheaper to operate? etc. Thank-you in advance for helping me.
    Last edited by georgiajill; 07-24-2012 at 09:05 PM. Reason: typo

  2. #2
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    the one that cools and removes the most moisture from the home is the one I would want.... we can not tell ....your contractor has to size.it....
    it was working.... played with it.... now its broke.... whats the going hourly rate for HVAC repair

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    Quote Originally Posted by georgiajill View Post
    Hi newbie here, I need to buy an outdoor unit for my 2100 sq ft home in Savannah Ga. I have it narrowed down to 2 Trane systems. The first is a Trane XR 15 3.5ton system with a 15 seer rating. The other is a Trane XB 14, 4ton system with a 15 seer rating. Both units are priced the same and I can't decide if I should go with the 3.5 ton XR15 or the 4 ton XB14 ? I have a variable speed hyperion indoor unit (air handler I think its called) installed already, and my home is Spray Foam insulated, no Fiberglass insulation (if that helps) I just want to know what will be the best "bang" for my buck, and what are the major differences, which unit can best handle Hot Georgia weather and which system will be cheaper to operate? etc. Thank-you in advance for helping me.
    Foamed house and 2100 sq ft equals Manual J8 and and probably less than 3 tons

  4. #4
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    that's just it, the contractor says there's no difference, I just get a half ton more with the XB, and that leads me to believe the XB14 isn't as good as the XR15, but I really don't know, I'm just guessing. Also the thermostat he is installing has really good humidity control according to him, but I need more opinions, thanks.

  5. #5
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    you need a contractor you can trust...... an over sized A/C system is useless... an under sized one leads to sweating..... gotta be sized right...... seer means little.....
    it was working.... played with it.... now its broke.... whats the going hourly rate for HVAC repair

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    I do trust my contractor, but maybe he's a little misinformed, I just need to know if the XR is better or the XB is better and why.

  7. #7
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    They're both crappy when they are over sized for the home.

    All foam insulation house, maybe 2.5 tons in a hot climate, 2 tons in a mild climate area. Unless you have a good whole house dehumidifier.

  8. #8
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    Have contractor do a load calculation and choose the right size unit... don't oversize... it will waste energy and money.
    You can call me Sam

    It should be a crime to be a mechanical engineer in San Diego
    Summer Design Temperature: 83 F Dry Bulb ~ 69 F Wet Bulb (California Climate Zone 7)

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    Thank-you everybody for your input. I guess the XB 4 ton is out, being it is oversized. But now I'm not sure if I should get the 3.5 ton XR either. I have scheduled a load test to be done today, I'll let ya'll know the results soon. However, I still need to know what the differences are between a Trane XB and a Trane XR series?

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    Get it sized right. Sizing can be all over the place. I can cool my whole 2 story 3200sqft home with 4 tons and it's not spray foamed in the walls... and the design conditions are only 1F cooler (WB & DB) than Savannah... our summer is just shorter and we have a real winter. If a retrofitted spray foam in the walls it would probably be around 3 tons... or 1.5 tons on each floor.

    XB is the lower end almost builder grade. I believe it's the same compressor, but the XR has a more rugged enclosure and a sound blanket so it's a little quieter. I'd go with the XR if I was looking at Trane.

    I personally prefer the contractor I use and he sells Carrier. I like their equipment too. If he sold Trane, I'd have Trane in my house.

    Are you getting a furnace or heat pump?

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    I'm getting a heat pump.

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    Quote Originally Posted by georgiajill View Post
    Thank-you everybody for your input. I guess the XB 4 ton is out, being it is oversized. But now I'm not sure if I should get the 3.5 ton XR either. I have scheduled a load test to be done today, I'll let ya'll know the results soon. However, I still need to know what the differences are between a Trane XB and a Trane XR series?
    The XB 13 & 14 compared to the XR 13 & 14. They both offer 10 year parts & compressor warranty. The color of the condenser/heat pump will be a different and the sound blanket is on the XR so is a little quieter. All in all the same system & warranty. We install a lot of XB14 systems do to good seer rating when matched with high eff. Coil & furnace.

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    Thanks Duckman! I talked to my installer yesterday, he said the reason he gave me a higher ton system is so that the unit will properly take out humidity, and with the 100 degree plus days we've been getting the unit will be able to cool down to the temp I want (my current unit at my rental home won't go lower than 85 degrees no matter what I set it to, and it runs all day long) does all this sound right?

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    Larger sized A/c' don't remove more moisture. They tend to cool the house down too quick.

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    Beenthere is correct oversized will not provide better Humidity control just opposite. The system will short cycle and not keep the humidity in check. Also I need to correct my statement, the XB 13-14 heat pump does come with a sound blanket.

    Just make sure the company does a load cal. An proper size your system. Depending on your budget the XR13-15 offer a better color option if that matters to you for the $? I personal have the Trane XR15 In my home and works great, the color is cleaner and I pay $85.00 Electric bills.

    The same can be achieved by a XB 14 with the right air handler/furnace but I chose the XR15 for the looks and Seer rating back in 2009!

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    +1, that contractor is wrong, unless... they set-up equipment incorrectly and set the blower speed too high on smaller units hurting their latent capacity.

    I changed out a 3.5ton for a 2 ton in my own home and humidity levels went from struggling to stay under 55% RH and overcooling by 2-3F to dehumidify, to now it's 42-48%RH, no overcooling, completely silent and much more efficient (by more than the SEER rating alone would predict).

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    thank-you everybody, I've decided to go with the XR, but I'm not 100% sure what ton, I've been referred to the 3.5 but with everyone's help here, I'm going to probably go down to between 2.5 to 3 ton, I'm just not sure yet, do ya'll know if a half ton makes a big difference? My goal is to have the most efficient unit that doesn't run all the time and keeps my electric bill down. Thanks again you guys have been a big help!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by georgiajill View Post
    thank-you everybody, I've decided to go with the XR, but I'm not 100% sure what ton, I've been referred to the 3.5 but with everyone's help here, I'm going to probably go down to between 2.5 to 3 ton, I'm just not sure yet, do ya'll know if a half ton makes a big difference? My goal is to have the most efficient unit that doesn't run all the time and keeps my electric bill down. Thanks again you guys have been a big help!
    Don't go too small or your unit's life span will be cut short. the perfect unit is that one that runs constantly on the hottest day and is still able to cool your house. A oversized unit cycles on for short periods and off frequently and that actually wastes more electricity.

    If you like your contractor... tell them to do a Manual J load calculation. No need to guess... science has the answers.
    You can call me Sam

    It should be a crime to be a mechanical engineer in San Diego
    Summer Design Temperature: 83 F Dry Bulb ~ 69 F Wet Bulb (California Climate Zone 7)

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by georgiajill View Post
    thank-you everybody, I've decided to go with the XR, but I'm not 100% sure what ton, I've been referred to the 3.5 but with everyone's help here, I'm going to probably go down to between 2.5 to 3 ton, I'm just not sure yet, do ya'll know if a half ton makes a big difference? My goal is to have the most efficient unit that doesn't run all the time and keeps my electric bill down. Thanks again you guys have been a big help!
    Just make sure that whenever a load is done on the home that the contractor knows what he is doing when inputting the date. Most contractors still just use the same input of insulation in the fields. Let me explain with foam insulation you run into these. The walls, ceiling etc... When foam is sprayed gives you the same r-value so as roof line with 5-6 inchs of foam will be rated a r-30-38 and 2/4 walls with 3-4 inches of foam are rated at r-13-15.

    This from my experience is where some contractors make a mistake and count the r-valve as the same as regular insulation which is correct but the infiltration amounts into the home is greatly reduced and depending on how your ductwork is run and which foam system you use, your ductwork and equipment would be considered to be in semi condition space.

    To make it simple, you need someone who is not going to fudge the #'s just to get load where they think it should be. Example I can make a 1500 square foot home look as it needs 4-5 ton system. Most HVAC contractors are scared that they will have a system installed that will be to
    Small and not cool properly. So they use rule of thumb or input date to show certain things in the home that will make the load look much worst then it is. I can't tell you how many times I have this but if I had a dollar for everyone, I could retire!

    Again you need someone to do a proper load cal. With the right input info. A contractor that knows what he is doing in this area want lose any sleep over installed a proper sized system as the software now is so easy to use just plug it in and you can have a load in 10-15 mins. I still remember when I use to have to so by hand and the time it took. Now it is so easy in floors me that people still don't use it!!!

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    This is the Ask Our Pro's forum. In order to post a response here, you must have verified qualifications and have been approved by the AOP Committee. You may ask a question by starting a new thread.

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    Additional infractions may result in loss of posting privileges.
    Last edited by jpsmith1cm; 07-27-2012 at 05:24 PM. Reason: Non AOP Member

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