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Thread: R410-A flaring
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07-11-2012, 10:16 AM #1
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R410-A flaring
I checked through some threads on the search but did not really find the answer.
I had a class not to long ago and they said that the old flaring tools will not work. The flares will leak. The new flaring blocks flare at a 45* angle. Does anyone know what the old angle was? And can you use the new 45* angle for other refrigerants. It makes no sense since you do not pick up different flare nuts for different refrigerants. From other threads I am getting the impression you need to put more pipe through the flare block to fit on the face correctly. Also Grainger sells a Rigid that does single lap and double lap. Does anyone know what this means? Rigid P#345DL/150/33927. Grainger P# 4A518
Thanks guys
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07-11-2012, 12:59 PM #2
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You have either 37 or 45 degree flares. I am assuming that what they mean by single or double lap is a single or double lipped flare. With the higher pressure of 410 a single flare would probably not be strong enough. Brake lines use a double flare due to the pressures. Just google double flare and there are lots to look at.
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07-11-2012, 01:26 PM #3
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i may be wrong but ive never had any problems with a std. 45
flare on 410. i have both 37 & 45 but only use the 37 on hydraulic
flares which usually use an inverted flare nut.
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07-11-2012, 02:40 PM #4
You must have taken an LG class. They have been spewing this for years. The flaring tool you already have is probably 45*. Never seen 37* I think it is for hydraulics. The only difference with 410 is the width of the flair shoulder needs to be large enough. I think yellow jacket has a tool with a gauge for the hieght of the pipe to make sure. I fell for the whole "different" flair so many times. I also put a little dab of blue loctite so those flairs don't loosen with the vibration.
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
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07-11-2012, 02:48 PM #5
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Hydraulic fittings are 37° if you try to flare steel tubing to 45° most of the time it would split on you, hence the shallower flare angle.
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07-11-2012, 07:31 PM #6
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07-11-2012, 07:48 PM #7
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It was a Diakin class. And I bought the YJ 60278 today more due to needing something asap for the job. It is the self height model. It took alot of practice tries to start getting the hang of it. Very little pressure needed while turning. I actually ended up just counting the turns for the flare. Pressure testing tonight. I made 4 flares I'll write tomorrow if everything held. Thanks everyone.
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07-11-2012, 08:22 PM #8
410 flares 45° and wider. Hang your end out a little longer to match it up with fitting.
JASON sent this from his DUMB-PHONE
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07-11-2012, 08:59 PM #9
X2 for brake lines, ISO (double flare) brakes are 1000 psi or more if I remember right? Don't quote that it's been years since I was a certified brake tech.
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07-12-2012, 03:46 PM #10
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Well she held 300# over night. Thanks for your help guys.
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07-12-2012, 09:09 PM #11
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yellow jackets tool is designed for the 410a flare.Samsung ductless instructions talk about the difference of the flare.The flaring tool is worth every dollar it has multiple sizes and set the depth for you its almost too easy.Yellow Jacket 60278 Deluxe Deluxe 45° Flaring Tool check it out
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07-13-2012, 03:02 AM #12
The newer flaring tools have a different type of cone that makes a MUCH nicer flare, with even wall thickness, and a nicely burnished sealing surface.
Instead of just a solid cone that wedges its way into the pipe to stretch the flare out, they have lobes on the cone, and usually an eccentric motion, that roles the tubing out into shape.If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.
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07-13-2012, 06:01 PM #13
" Burnishing " I believe is the correct term. The " Red Handled Ritchie " has always done that ( Rotoflare as it was called ). The Blue handle tool turns a wider face for sure ( 410-A ) .
Question : Do fuel oil guys have to " seek out " older tools for flaring ?


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