To the OP, I have had to paint the motor terminals on RTAAs and RTACs with liquid electrical tape before. It's a good fix. It's easiest if you take the leads off the motor, just make sure you don't disturb the terminals themelves. Put the leads back in the right place or you'll be buying a new $20,000 compressor.
Are you speaking from experience? That's the best way to learn. LOL!
Thanks for all the replies. I have seen this on the RTAA's also but thought they would have learned from their mistakes on the new design. I hate to "rig" a 1.5 year old machine but you gotta do what you gotta do. I am sending some pics to their (customers) M.E. so they can handle it internally and give the go ahead.
Its still just sad to see Their stuff getting hammered lately with design flaws. I generally like the equipment but between these repeated c and e coil failures, still having more headers stopping up on the new Voyagers and this issue, customers are grumbling a lot.
Aside from the occasional sensor and condenser fan motor I've had little problems with my RTAA's.
Iv'e got 4.
Their only design flaw I see is they didn't use any type of sound attenuating equipment on them.
Yea I know you can buy a kit.
Had a Exv go bad on a 7 year old Chiller but that was it. To the guys who are getting sweating motor terminals check your oil temp when the comp is off. If it's cold liquid is migrating back to that compressor during the off cycle.
Replacing he EXVs fixed the terminal issue on one of my RTAA 110 s
Their RTU's are known for restrictions but usually the driers catch whatever it is those Comps are spitting out.
I wouldn't really call this a design flaw on the part of Trane. Terminal condensation is something that's going to happen any time you put any kind of hermetic or semi-hermetic refrigeration compressor outdoors or in a non-conditioned space.
They have been doing some goofy stuff with some of their other equipment. The RTAC is one of the best air-cooled chillers on the market, though.
cperk, I've been lucky enough to never make a mistake like that. I don't ever want to have to tell someone that something I did just cost them $50k.
On a YCAS that I serviced: did same painted with liquid rubber and then used a 3/4" flat armaflex and then pressed terminals onto armaflex. Punched-out indentations to allow for access, for checking voltage. Afterward,I spray glued around the edges of terminal box and used a piece of flat wood to hold overnight to set. It's been over a year and all is good. Sounds crazy, but it worked.