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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    6

    Trane not cooling properly

    I just bought this house about 2 weeks ago and the cooling is inadequate in my opinion. I will star with unit specs.
    1550 sqft with 3 ton trane heat pump. Model 2twb0036a1000ab
    I had condenser coils and evap coils cleaned they were extremely dirty. I am only getting about 10 degrees from outside temp. I have now had 4 techs look at system and all say something different so I am confused as ever. My pressures were 80 suction and 185 head with outside temp being 85 and inside 75 with unit never getting below this. During the 95-100 temp days I am seeing 85-87 inside my home with unit never cycling off. I have measured my air temp many times and at night i get about a 13 degree air temp difference in return to supply air. In heat of day i get about 7-10 at best return to supply air temp difference. Unit is 6 years old. I was told this is all the unit will do by one the other said coil was still dirty he thought and last tech said could be my compressor going out. Please any help would be appreciated as I have a lot of money tied up in this already and still not working correctly. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    SW Wisconsin
    Posts
    5,025
    Quote Originally Posted by jmhill26 View Post
    1550 sqft with 3 ton Trane heat pump. Model 2twb0036a1000ab
    I had condenser coils and evap coils cleaned they were extremely dirty. I am only getting about 10 degrees from outside temp. I have now had 4 techs look at system and all say something different so I am confused as ever.

    My pressures were 80 suction and 185 head (that is low, evaporator may not be absorbing enough heat due to still being insulated by debris, which is more likely than airflow being way too low because the indoor split is low;.) with outside temp being 85 and inside 75 with unit never getting below this. During the 95-100 temp days I am seeing 85-87 inside my home with unit never cycling off.

    I have measured my air temp many times and at night i get about a 13 degree air temp difference in return to supply air. In heat of day i get about 7-10 at best return to supply air temp difference. Unit is 6 years old.

    I was told this is all the unit will do by one; the other said, coil was still dirty he thought;and last tech said could be my compressor going out. Please any help would be appreciated as I have a lot of money tied up in this already and still not working correctly. Thanks
    Okay, I don't like to see customer's wasting their money...

    At 85-F outdoors; 75-F indoors; @50% relative humidity, (humidity % could be a lot higher than that); with a 12-SEER condenser should be close to 202-psig head pressure which is about 101.5-F condensing temp - 85F ambient is 16.5-F condenser discharge temp-split.

    At a low 185-psig head that's 96-F condensing temp - 85-ambient is that is only 11-F condenser temp-split way below mfg'ers nominal performance data. What is your indoor relative humidity%?!

    At 90F ambient & 80F indoors @63% relative humidity, a 12-SEER condenser should have around a 21.5-F air discharge temp-split.
    Indoor split ought to be, ball-parking it, around 16.5 to 17-F temp-split.

    You need a humidity gauge as the humidity could be much higher than 50% which would cause a higher condenser discharge air temperature,however a low 185 head knocks that thought.

    A 7 to 10F indoor temp-split is totally unacceptable; a partially restricted compressor inlet strainer could cause the problem as could an inefficient compressor, (apart from the refrigerant system) duct leaks & lack of duct insulation can greatly reduce the indoor temp-split...there are other causes but will quit for now.

    There need to know how to troubleshoot for all the relevant causes...

    What type of metering device does it have; piston orifice or, TXV?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    6
    I am unsure of the humidity in the house but my guess would be on the higher end. Down here in mobile Alabama it tends to always be high. I have no way of reading humidity right now but I will work on that. I also had another guy come out today and believe it or not he didn't even charge me because he said he wasn't sure and didn't want to tell me the wrong thing. I have a little over $ spent now with the problem not resolved and still another $ to spend from what people say. I feel like the only reason the quote me a whole new outside condenser is they are not sure the prob but by replacing everything it will fix it.

    Now the one guy that came out that seemed to know what he spoke of said there was a lot of water coming from my drain line. Early morn prob 80 outside it was a steady stream, a good one at that. I have never seen it less than a steady stream at any time any outside temp. Also the tech that cleaned my evap coils reinstalled the facing bad and I had TONS of 160 degree attic air pulling in the unit. I since taped all cracks and but that made no difference. Also I would say my attic needs a little more insulation. I am think of putting in a power vent as of right now it is only ridge vent. I will check my evap coils again since i cant trust my techs this far.

    I have no what is in it without someone telling what to look for. On my panel on condenser in attic there is a sticker roughed up but the only word I can make out is orifice. Why can't there be a good reputable tech in my area not scared to do some work other take hook up gauges and tell me $? Thanks again.
    Last edited by beenthere; 07-06-2012 at 07:32 PM. Reason: Prices.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    68,564
    Sorry, prices are not allowed.
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    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    6
    No my apologies. My extreme apologies for that. Sorry

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    68,564
    Consider yourself flogged, with a wet noodle.

    Mistakes happen.
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    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern VA 38 degrees N by 76 degrees W
    Posts
    5,060
    Quote Originally Posted by jmhill26 View Post
    No my apologies. My extreme apologies for that. Sorry
    Do you have any other readings? The unit is definitely not running at full capacity.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    WEST COLUMBIA S.C.
    Posts
    293
    Do a pump down and see if suction gets warm at compressor.What's the amp draw also

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    6
    What other readings are you looking for? I am in no way a hvac pro other than what I am dealing with right now and a lot of Google searches but I can get whatever it is you need for sure.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN, USA
    Posts
    34,455
    Ducts in the attic?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern VA 38 degrees N by 76 degrees W
    Posts
    5,060
    Quote Originally Posted by jmhill26 View Post
    What other readings are you looking for? I am in no way a hvac pro other than what I am dealing with right now and a lot of Google searches but I can get whatever it is you need for sure.
    Voltage and amperage on compressor, super heat from evaporator, indoor humidity airflow would be great but I doubt that was measured, and the supply and return temperatures.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    4,806
    Have any of them told you the compressor is not funtioning correctly

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    6
    Yes one told me the unit was full capacity.
    Other told me maybe compressor.
    One told me evap coils prob still dirty
    Last told me maybe reversing valve.

    I have also read could be a stopped up drier or a lot of things a lot less than a new condensor unit.

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