Busted Drier Cannister on a RTAA

[Six]

Installed two new EEVs, cables, module and drier cores on a RTAA 110 last Saturday.

The chiller and its brothers sit by the bay and have to contend with a substantial amount of sea air.

Anything that can corode rotted off in the first year. Had one EEV go south so I had to open up both circuits. Doused the drier core hardware with WD 40 2 times prior to prepare for Saturdays fun fare.


Broke a bolt anyway on circuit A. Tried everything to get the small amount of bolt out but to no avail.

Replaced everything and torqued the crap out of the new stainless hardware I brought for the very special occasion.

Tiny tiny bubbles none the less at the spot missing the bolt. Pumped it down and locked out the circuit through the display.

Any recomendations to getting whats left outa there and also I know there HAS to be something better than WD40.

I would hate to replace the canister.

Ive got to do the identical repair this Sat on the RTAA sitting next to it. Its EEV wont seal and its leaking liquid back into the compresor on its off cycle.

[sdt1104]

Aerokroil in an excelland penatrating oil, made by Kono Labs. We use it quite a bit.

[valdelocc]

I use Castle penetrating oil and a little heat.

http://www.amazon.com/Castle-Thrust-.../dp/B000KKLM1Q

[bunny]

If it's the style shell where the threaded holes are drilled completely through the shell flange plate then just drill the broken piece out and replace it with a nut and bolt.

[RedWireGoesWere]

Aerokroil in an excelland penatrating oil, made by Kono Labs. We use it quite a bit.

I use the same and I have also used PB Buster on cooling tower motor bolts that are all corroded.