BTW, the 0.1° is the differential temp between the two clamps.
I gotta say that I'm sick and tired of screwing with those Digi-cool temperature sensors. I'm done. I'm also sick and tired of k-types, never knowing whether to trust the reading, and usually you can't. I've been using the standalone Cooper clamp for awhile, and have pretty much worn it out. The flip out probe on it is also reading about 5° too high even though the pipe sensor is still pretty accurate. I bought that new Cooper box today. Should have done that the day after the first sensor failure on my Digi-cools.
I almost bought an SMAN the other day when my Digi-cools quit working completely. I don't know what I was thinking, must've been the heat affecting my judgment. Luckily it turned out to be just a poor connection on the ribbon connector. Cleaned the end of the ribbon and slid it back in. Now its working fine again, except for the sensors that is. My mod didn't hold up. One of the dangling leads has an internal break. It happened a few months ago. I could replace the connector for about 6 bucks and a little solder, but I shouldn't have to be screwing with this thing. I paid a LOT for this DRSA, and then some more for an upgrade from the 1200 to the 1250 for the sole purpose of having two sensors, which haven't worked for more than a month or so since the upgrade a couple of years ago. Apparently I need bigger wire for those dangling jacks. Well, I take that back, no I don't need bigger wire, I have a shiny new Cooper 3 zone temperature meter with a humidity probe, and some nifty clamps for it, compliments of Digi-cool and Radio Shack. Screw the bigger wire.
Last edited by hvacrmedic; 07-12-2012 at 02:07 AM.
I like it. For some reason my modified clamps don't work on my Cooper and i assume it's the type of 1/8"connector i used. I've got it on my list to change when and if i switch the wire type
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You can rewire them to work. The stereo jack has three points of contact. The tip, center, and base. The Cooper meter will make contact with the tip and base only of the stereo 1/8" plug. I had mine wired to the tip and center, and had just cut off the ground wire (base) because it wasn't being used. I had to go back in and solder the ground lead (base) to the sensor in order to use the clamps with the Cooper box. Took about 10 or 15 minutes. One of these days when I replace those leads I'll go back with mono plugs, and may even use the leads off of some old Cooper sensors that I have.