Trane/AS 13 SEER condenser capacity with HE furnace
I am currently working on a project and I am needing to find what the total capacity, nearest 60k BTU I can get with the Trane/AS 4TTR3060D1 or the 4A7A3060D1. I have found on both AHRI and Trane's commercial website that I can get it with the TAM7A0C60H51SA air handler right at 60k, and I also need a Trane/AS TUH1D120A9H51A/AUH1D120A9H51A furnace as we are on propane and need the highest efficiency furnace we can get. Now, I have found that with the furnace and outdoor condenser combination, we can get right at 59k with a horizontal slab coil, but I am wondering what the total capacity would be with one of the 4TXC coils and this combination.
The reason for such large cooling and low heating is our small country church. Uninsulated ceiling below attic and uninsulated walls and a full basement beneath. Current system is an old mix matched single 5 ton 34 year old Bryant condenser matched with a Lennox G51 110k input 5 ton blower furnace with single side return with the optional single side return heightened base, pair with an undersized Lennox un-cased 4 ton evap coil with external TXV. System hardly keeps up with even a small gathering and we have done a load calculation, and for maximum occupation such as weddings, funerals, etc. on a 94 degree outdoor design temp day, we need approximately 148,641 BTUs for summer total capacity and 102,960 BTUs in winter with an outdoor 13 degree design temp day. Indoor design is 72 db summer and 68 db winter with 57 moisture grains difference here in Swampeast Missouri. We have the room in the basement to add an air handler along with a new furnace to replace current system. Both systems would be on separate return and supply ductwork and independently staged for cooling. A Fujitsu 24 RULX system would make up the close difference for the balcony area. Just needing to know the cooling capacity with the furnace/condenser combo.
Sorry for the long thread. You can move this if it belongs in commercial, just did it here since its residential equipment.
With the 061D coil you are running at 58,500.
Might want to spend the money and add some insulation in that ceiling. Save you money in both winter and summer.
Sorry to get back with you so late. Thanks for the replies.
Baldloonie: That coil you are referring to is one of the cased A coils with the 95% upflow X13 motor furnace and their best 13 SEER air conditioner? If so, that is great! Thanks for the info.
Beenthere: I hear you. I have spoke with the trustees over the years about adding even blown in cellulose, but it never really goes anywhere. Plus, getting up in this attic is a bit fun for this 103 year old building. But I agree, I know it would save a lot. But, as with most of the "stubborn Dutchmen" around here, if its been like this that long, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"
And also may save a little money on buying smaller equipment .
Originally Posted by beenthere
Everyday is like my first day!
IF you're using propane, look at dual fuel and use a heat pump with a dual fuel thermostat.
IF also might be cheaper to install a single commercial package unit rather than multiple split systems. But you' might need 3 phase power.
You might also look at just going all electric and using a VRF unit wiht multipel indoor ceiling cassette or wall moutn units. You can get these in sizes up to 10 tons. But again, I think you need 3 phase power.
There are a multiplicity of factors that will alter the actual Btuh delivered to the conditioned rooms that are a far bigger factor than the small difference in Rated Btuh, which has much less to do with actual delivered Btuh.
Originally Posted by Silver06
You should not need a 72-F dry bulb indoor summer design temp in a church...
Consider beenthere's advice concerning adding insulation; also reduce air infiltration by especially plugging air leaks to the attic.
The duct system will need efficient air flow design along with oversizing the Return Air filtering area(s) &, using low pressure drop filters.
Therefore, there are a ton of factors unrelated to the small differences in Btuh Ratings; if you want to get the job effectively done, work on those other critically important factors first.