Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1

    2.5 ton vs 3 ton packaged heat pump

    I need to replace my old unit, Carrier 2.5 ton 12 Seer. I got an estimate on a Trane, XL14c -14 Seer, variable blower, and it looks good. I also talked with my Carrier guy who I've known for years and he threw me a curve. He said I should go to a 3 ton unit. He gave me prices for a 14 Seer and a 15 Seer in their Infinity line. There is a good promo rebate on the 15 Seer which would make it only $ more than his 14 Seer. The 15 Seer also has a 2 stage blower which I'm interested in. The Carrier 15 Seer, 2 stage, is $ more than the Trane 14 Seer.

    I feel like i've been given apples & oranges to compare after my Carrier guy told me I should get a 3 ton unit. I have a small wood frame cottage style home (one level) with approximately 1000 sq ft interior, and marginally decent insulation (duct work is in crawl space beneath house). I live in East Tennessee (close to the Great Smoky Mountains) and temps usually range from 25 to 92 with some fluctuations and it's fairly humid (we'll be in the 100 range for the next few days

    Is a 3 ton unit a proper recommendation? Will it cost more than a 2.5 ton to operate? I'm concerned that bigger may not be better. Also, my big problem with my old Carrier is a coil leak and I'm told the Trane solid alum coil feature is better. Then there is the 2 stage system on the Carrier that sounds good for operating efficiency & helping with humidity.

    Can anyone offer me some insight please?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by beenthere; 06-28-2012 at 06:09 AM. Reason: prices

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    winnipeg
    Posts
    1,330
    100 % load calculation needed..... you may need a 2 ton...who knows...... when an A/C is over sized nothing good happens
    it was working.... played with it.... now its broke.... whats the going hourly rate for HVAC repair

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    West Monroe, LA
    Posts
    1,537
    Quote Originally Posted by Claire33 View Post
    I need to replace my old unit, Carrier 2.5 ton 12 Seer. I got an estimate on a Trane, XL14c -14 Seer, variable blower, and it looks good. I also talked with my Carrier guy who I've known for years and he threw me a curve. He said I should go to a 3 ton unit. He gave me prices for a 14 Seer and a 15 Seer in their Infinity line. There is a good promo rebate on the 15 Seer which would make it only $ more than his 14 Seer. The 15 Seer also has a 2 stage blower which I'm interested in. The Carrier 15 Seer, 2 stage, is $ more than the Trane 14 Seer.

    I feel like i've been given apples & oranges to compare after my Carrier guy told me I should get a 3 ton unit. I have a small wood frame cottage style home (one level) with approximately 1000 sq ft interior, and marginally decent insulation (duct work is in crawl space beneath house). I live in East Tennessee (close to the Great Smoky Mountains) and temps usually range from 25 to 92 with some fluctuations and it's fairly humid (we'll be in the 100 range for the next few days

    Is a 3 ton unit a proper recommendation? Will it cost more than a 2.5 ton to operate? I'm concerned that bigger may not be better. Also, my big problem with my old Carrier is a coil leak and I'm told the Trane solid alum coil feature is better. Then there is the 2 stage system on the Carrier that sounds good for operating efficiency & helping with humidity.

    Can anyone offer me some insight please?

    Thanks!
    I agree with carmon you need a load cal. Done to confirm for 100% what is needed to heat and cool your home. How did your existing preform?

    In your post you stated that the carrier is (2) stage is this correct or did you mean it also has a (2) speed fan? If so and the home does require a 2.5 ton system in (2) stage equipment you would need to go to a (3) ton as (2) stage equipment does not come in have sizes.

    Again you really need a load cal. Ran to see what the home really needs. If you oversize the system the existing ductwork is proper not going to be big enough.

    The Trane XL14c is a good system and have installed several over the years with 0 problems. As far as the carrier system I am not familiar with that model. I would ask to see load cal. On the home and then you will
    Have your answer!

  4. #4
    Thanks to both of you! I've read so many times that for heat pumps, bigger is definitely not better. So I don't want to pay extra to get extra problems.... Sorry I wasn't clear, the 3 ton Carrier Infinity 50XT he's wanting to sell me has a 2 stage compressor with a variable blower. And I think my old 2.5 ton Carrier 12 Seer Phoenix Plus packaged HP worked decently until the coil developed a leak they couldn't fix at the beginning of last year -recharged 2x and no good. I made it through the winter mostly on auxilliary heat. I've just eeked by since then (elderly mom ill for months, work & no time to look at anything til now). It wasn't problem free -compressor replaced (warranty), blower motor (7yrs), contactors burnt-up (2x), fan capacitor, 30 amp fuse, replaced thermostat (2010).

    My Carrier buddy (owner -I've known him since he was 14 & purchased my HP system from him in 1995 when I moved back to TN) got very defensive when I told him I had also priced a Trane and some additional things Trane guy mentioned (including available energy audit rebates) that he hadn't. I felt my Carrier bud expected to send his boys with a new unit, set it in and I'd fork over my check with no questions asked. Our East TN good ol' boy way -'trust me.....' I understand, to a degree, but I kind of feel he was taking me for granted and it is aggravating. He had also sold me an in-line(?-it's installed in the duct work) electrostatic air filter with my original HP that has not 'zapped' for years. He's maintained it's working properly & they just don't make the zap-sound after a while. (btw -yes I use the throw-away filters on the return). Trane guy said if I don't hear it zapping it's not working. I dunno and that isn't a point now, but it is an issue if he's just been hoo-dooing me about it. It's the 'lie to me once, shame on you, lie to me twice, shame on me.'

    I'm not sure if a load calc was ever made on my house. If there was I am unaware of it. There were just wall heaters and a Buck stove when I bought the house, so the Heat Pump and duct-work were new installation. The Carrier guy determined the number of registers & placement and there is one large return. I hope he did room measurements, but I don't remember now. And he may have used the 'Rule of Thumb method' to decide on ton size.... Frankly, the Trane guy did not look at individual rooms. He did check the return and looked at the duct work in the crawl space (and the electrostatic air filter which he said should have been insulated -which I've always wondered about too).

    So I guess I need to ask about a load calculation from both of these guys. Assuming they will (or even can) perform one, how will I know what the information is saying? This is as bad a buying a car.....

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Houston,Tx.
    Posts
    16,111
    Quote Originally Posted by Claire33 View Post
    So I guess I need to ask about a load calculation from both of these guys.
    Start with a home energy audit, it is the first step in making your home more efficient. An audit can help you assess how much energy your home uses and evaluate what measures you can take to improve efficiency. But remember, audits alone don't save energy. You need to implement the recommended improvements. Then find yourself someone to do a Manual J and a Manual D on your home, one without the other is just throwing dollars out the window. Manual J and a Manual D do you no good if air is escaping, or being drawn into your home.
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    “Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterwards". - Vernon Law

    "Never let success go to your head, and never let failure go to your heart". - Unknown

  6. #6
    Hi Mr. Bill-
    I have a call in to schedule an energy audit, but haven't heard anything back yet. My house is really old. It had insulation blown in the attic and walls when I bought it. It's a frame house and I had vinyl siding put on. The windows are old 9 over 9 (with the old weight & pulley's) which I did not want to replace, so I re-glazed them and purchased storm windows. I also added fiberglass insulation under the floors. It ain't perfect, but overall I hope it's probably not too bad. My worst is the hot water heater which I can't begin to explain here (it's a hoot) and I need to put closeable vents in the crawl space o/s vents.

    Another question -much of my duct work lies on the ground in the crawl space. Trane guy says it should have foam board under it; Carrier guy said not necessary because the ground stays dry as a bone under my house. Who is right?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    West Monroe, LA
    Posts
    1,537
    Quote Originally Posted by Claire33 View Post
    Hi Mr. Bill-
    I have a call in to schedule an energy audit, but haven't heard anything back yet. My house is really old. It had insulation blown in the attic and walls when I bought it. It's a frame house and I had vinyl siding put on. The windows are old 9 over 9 (with the old weight & pulley's) which I did not want to replace, so I re-glazed them and purchased storm windows. I also added fiberglass insulation under the floors. It ain't perfect, but overall I hope it's probably not too bad. My worst is the hot water heater which I can't begin to explain here (it's a hoot) and I need to put closeable vents in the crawl space o/s vents.

    Another question -much of my duct work lies on the ground in the crawl space. Trane guy says it should have foam board under it; Carrier guy said not necessary because the ground stays dry as a bone under my house. Who is right?
    As Mr. Bill said get a energy ratings first and go from
    There! In regards to ductwork laying on the ground or having foam under it? The ductwork should be suspended and strapped with nice straight runs so as to not be on the ground! What is to stop water from getting into the ducts?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event