Gonna go crash...gotta work in the AM....see ya
We have 5 or 6 of them in our trucks. I haven't heard of any problems yet. Never used an H-10 so I can't speak to that. Your inficon REP sounds more like a salesman, probably don't know what the hell he's even selling. When they say "you're killing me" that means they're pretty much backed into a corner with no intelligent comeback.
Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm
I've got the TIF XP-1A and have had very good results with it on pretty much everything including 410A. Bought it right out of school 5 years ago as I didn't like the H-10's we had there, and it has good specs on paper. Also it runs on 2 'C' batteries so no recharging, no extension cord, and no failed power cell after two years. It's purple and kind of cheesy looking, but I would buy another one in a minute.
The only drawback is that it goes off on blue leak bubbles, but they started providing us with the pink stuff at work which doesn't affect it.
Well I've never used an h10, although I have one ordered.
I have used 3 differant dtek selects. One at a previous employer, one where I work now, then I broke that one and it got replaced. In my opinion they are a very good detector but, they do not work well with 134a or 410a. Now this is my opinion but I've had several small coolers where I couldn't find the leak. I removed the 134a or 404a and put some trace r22 in the system and found the leak within minutes.
I also bought a tif zx about 2 months ago. I really really like it. Though I've probably only used it a dozen times, and I do not feel very comfortable with it yet. I will say it seems to do well with 134a and 410a. All of the leaks I've found were with these 2 refers......
Hope this helps
The following is a quote from Bacharach on adjusting the H-10PM when checking a system with 410A. "For testing R410A you should use the SMALL leak mode setting and you should increase the heater voltage slightly. Looking at the Heater Voltage adjustment potentiometer, visualize a clock face around the potentiometer and increase (clockwise) the potentiometer the equivalent of 2 hours on the clock face. After checking for R410a, you should return the potentiometer to it’s original position."
That's because I was telling him about leaks, good sized ones, that several Selects has walked right past without a sound.
Originally Posted by dunkman
H-10 found them in seconds.
He had no answer because there was no answer and no excuse for a leak detector to miss leaks like that.
I had pictures of the leaks and everything.
I've had good luck with my Tif ZX
The Bill of Rights ARTICLE II "The Right of the People to Keep and Bear Arms Shall NOT be Infringed".
my h10 sucks on 410. my h10g does pretty good on it. I don't trust my dtekselect in anything but still air. thing goes off to easily in moving air.
my H10 is a Yakagowa mfg and it's supposed to pick up blends but doesn't.
Originally Posted by JWB
And to hell with having to dick around with the potentiometer. Thats not the way you should have to adjust your detector. It's only doing a halfass job of picking up refer than.
JP...you portable picks up 410A with out screwing with the potentiometer?
If so I am going to have to invest in a new one....MMMaaaannnn...if GE still owned the H10 this crap would not happen.
I have never adjusted the pot on my H-10PM. I just set the selector to small when checking for 410A leaks and medium for R-22. These are the only two refrigerants that I deal with and I have never had a problem.
h10 vs dtek select
I never had a problem with my h10 until i dropped the wand in water. i picked up the d tek in that time i have had continous problem finding leaks. I got really tired of callbacks because my tools sucked. so i just sent my h10 out to be repaired. Is it possible that some of you just need to get your h10 rebuilt also. if you get any moisture sucked into them the sensitivity goes way down. 410a is one of the hardest refigerants to pick up no matter what you use. Im going to keep both my d tek and my h10 in service so that i can use them in tandem.
I've got a new this year model Bacharach H10pm model that found a leak for a friend of mine in a 4 year old 410A Carrier resi evap coil. He had isolated the components and knew it was in the coil but couldn't find the leak with his TIF ZX. I set the H10 to manual, adjusted it to 2 beeps per second on the small leak setting and after 2 minutes found the leak. I went over the entire coil again 4 -5 times and that was the only spot to send my detector off flying. Even after finding the leak his detector would only go off he he left it stationary over that spot. He said the battery and sensor were fine since it went off against the reference gas. He's been doing this a long time and has found many leaks before so I really think he knows what he's doing. I came to the H10pm from a heated diode Yellow Jacket that I never did get to trusting. Just my experience.
The H-10PM does require periodic adjustments as the sensor decays, but it doesn't require adjustments JUST for 410a.
Originally Posted by hvaclover
Yes, set on small leak, it will pick up a fly farting 410a at 50 paces.