Fwed up with my H-10

[JWB]

my h10 sucks on 410. my h10g does pretty good on it. I don't trust my dtekselect in anything but still air. thing goes off to easily in moving air.

[hvaclover]

my h10 sucks on 410. my h10g does pretty good on it. I don't trust my dtekselect in anything but still air. thing goes off to easily in moving air.

my H10 is a Yakagowa mfg and it's supposed to pick up blends but doesn't.

And to hell with having to dick around with the potentiometer. Thats not the way you should have to adjust your detector. It's only doing a halfass job of picking up refer than.

JP...you portable picks up 410A with out screwing with the potentiometer?

If so I am going to have to invest in a new one....MMMaaaannnn...if GE still owned the H10 this crap would not happen.

[Indy]

I have never adjusted the pot on my H-10PM. I just set the selector to small when checking for 410A leaks and medium for R-22. These are the only two refrigerants that I deal with and I have never had a problem.

[cavalieri85]

h10 vs dtek select

I never had a problem with my h10 until i dropped the wand in water. i picked up the d tek in that time i have had continous problem finding leaks. I got really tired of callbacks because my tools sucked. so i just sent my h10 out to be repaired. Is it possible that some of you just need to get your h10 rebuilt also. if you get any moisture sucked into them the sensitivity goes way down. 410a is one of the hardest refigerants to pick up no matter what you use. Im going to keep both my d tek and my h10 in service so that i can use them in tandem.

[coryc]

I've got a new this year model Bacharach H10pm model that found a leak for a friend of mine in a 4 year old 410A Carrier resi evap coil. He had isolated the components and knew it was in the coil but couldn't find the leak with his TIF ZX. I set the H10 to manual, adjusted it to 2 beeps per second on the small leak setting and after 2 minutes found the leak. I went over the entire coil again 4 -5 times and that was the only spot to send my detector off flying. Even after finding the leak his detector would only go off he he left it stationary over that spot. He said the battery and sensor were fine since it went off against the reference gas. He's been doing this a long time and has found many leaks before so I really think he knows what he's doing. I came to the H10pm from a heated diode Yellow Jacket that I never did get to trusting. Just my experience.

[jpsmith1cm]

my H10 is a Yakagowa mfg and it's supposed to pick up blends but doesn't.

And to hell with having to dick around with the potentiometer. Thats not the way you should have to adjust your detector. It's only doing a halfass job of picking up refer than.

JP...you portable picks up 410A with out screwing with the potentiometer?

If so I am going to have to invest in a new one....MMMaaaannnn...if GE still owned the H10 this crap would not happen.

The H-10PM does require periodic adjustments as the sensor decays, but it doesn't require adjustments JUST for 410a.

Yes, set on small leak, it will pick up a fly farting 410a at 50 paces.

[cavalieri85]

Is the h10pm easier to use than the h10 p which I think is the one I have. It's the old 115b plug in style and you have to dial it in and very hard to get set right on small setting.

[heaterman54]

I also have been having a hard time finding small leaks with my H-10. I am looking at the Fieldpiece infrared SRL2K7. I dont know anything adout it but it uses a different technology.

[nratom45-70]

I also have been having a hard time finding small leaks with my H-10. I am looking at the Fieldpiece infrared SRL2K7. I dont know anything adout it but it uses a different technology.

I've had a hard time getting used to my fieldpiece.

[atoreson]

I have had ZERO problems using the H-10 on 400 series blends.

I don't have a lot of experience with R410a in particular, but I've found a LOT of 402a and 404a leaks along with 134a, 407a, 507 and other HFCs.

The H-10 works great on R12, R22, and R134a.

Some of the 400 blends have 134a in them.... R410a does not.

The H-10 does well on 400 blends that have 134a in them.

From my experience, it does not do well with R410a.

From my experience, the new IR detectors work amazingly well on R410a. They are extremely sensitive and very consistent.

I have had good results with both the Fieldpiece SRL2K7 and the D-Tek Select.

Just my two cents.
Tony

[atoreson]

I've had a hard time getting used to my fieldpiece.

The new IR detectors take a little time getting used to... Especially if you have been using a heated diode detector for a long while.

I was a little frustrated at first but I read the manual and followed it precisely. After a few weeks, I was getting better and better with it. Now it is like riding a bike.

Tony

[ar]

The new IR detectors take a little time getting used to... Especially if you have been using a heated diode detector for a long while.

I was a little frustrated at first but I read the manual and followed it precisely. After a few weeks, I was getting better and better with it. Now it is like riding a bike.

Tony

As a big cheerleader for H10G, we have had issues with 410a. I just got the Fieldpiece SRL2K7 and have yet to use it on an HFC, but it worked well on 22. It is going to take time to get used to constant movement and not trying to pinpoint a leak by leaving it stationary, it will recalibrate and not go off.

Not that I have done this, but a squirt of 22 into a 410a system makes leak testing MUCH better with the H10G.

[cavalieri85]

I have had a harder time with 404 than 410 I love my h 10 never had problems finding leaks but time of problems with the d tek. I didn't like the fieldpiece that a co worker had but i havrny had much luck with any fieldpiece products. They make tons of diffrent ones it just comrs doen to what works best for you. We all do yhings a lurked diffrent so what works for one may not work for another

[worrut]

I really like my tif-zx ,but something made my life miserable because It was picking up a some insulation and I end up changing a line set, I just brought a h-10g for $150 on eBay , is it a good price?

[cavalieri85]

150 for a h-10 is a great price. I paid much more than that. If its used I would reccomend you send it to be refurbished. It costs like 100 bucks. One thing I didn't know for a long time is on the bottom of it there is a sensitivity setting I turn mine to highest setting

[kutiki]

Got my first h10 in 1975 next one the green one in 1996 when I worked for Scott polar still have it. Retired 5years ago. Hated the new refrigerants,give me the 12,22,502 any day. Just an old man talking.

[Gunslinger]

The Fieldpiece SLR8 works well with R410. It is not to good on R22. It is a heated diode type and uses sensors every couple of years depending upon usage. The new H10's are super-sensitive for R410.

[DOGBOY]

The new H10's are super-sensitive for R410.

supposed to be the same sensor in all of the H-10's.

[ucantstopthis1]

I think I have read every post about the H10 on this site. I personally have the H10PM. I traded a D-Tek select for it becuase the Dtek couldn't find a leak in a leaking 410a unit. Another Tech came out with a older H10G and found the leak that I had spent seveal hours searching for in less than a few minutes. Of course this is after I just got done making fun of the H10 for being old technology....ouch that hurt! I replaced the battery with a new matched up battery from the Internet for around $18 delivered. Put a new sensor in it and calibrated it per the instructions and haven't had any problems with it. I charge it every night after I use it that day. Use the low sensitivity for hfc's and med for r22. Another funny thing to mention is the Dtek will not pick up the calibration gas of the H10. Mmm, wonder why.....lol

[jtrammel]

I use the fp srl8 for 410 and a zx-1 for r22. Both will find either to refrigerant but they are better at one than the other. If I can't find it with the zx or srl8 I drag out the h10. I only have to drag it out once or twice a year though.

BTW, I miss uncle