This nightmare is just getting worse..took a closer look at the return box yesterday morning... Spent yesterday afternoon and this morning trying to seal box better... Crappy crappy work! Holes everywhere for attic air to get into house... Sealed it up with some metal flex duct tape from home depot on the inside and outside.... Drenched the inside with mastic sealant afterwards... Got the outside sealed up with just tape... I guess next step is spreading on with mastic. Called the guy who did the work and he said he barely made any money. I only put the other return because that is what the first indoor air quality guy said he was going to do. So i went with this guy who was referred to me by my brother in law. I know many of you have said to just do the manual j or go with whole house dehumidifer. The guy i let do the extra return did a whole system on my brother in laws house and his house is 47%-53% all the time. The guy who did my return and my brother in laws house said my ac was the proper size.... 1 ton per 500 square feet. But man... Dude it seems like everybody and every place in the world hAs good air.... Wal mart .... All of my family.... But my house is terrible. This sucks!
Humidity went back up to 57% today....whats funny is i left the system off yesterday while sealing up the return from the inside. The house stayed at 55% with the system off! Then once i cranked the sytem up around 3...the humidity came down to around 51%. But i left it on today and the humidity gradually came up to 57%. Btw the temps have been. 100+ on the days it came up to 57%. On another day it came up to 57% but it was atadbit cooler. Out of money for the time being... This is new house hell!
This is about getting enough fresh air to purge the indoor pollutants and maintaining <50%RH. Wether the %RH is 50%RH of 55%RH is not the difference. Its about fresh filtered air and avoiding indoor pollution.
Originally Posted by robotman2009
Mold, dust mites and other indoor pollutants need low %RH and steady fresh air ventilation.
A good whole house ventialting dehumdifier with a merv 14 air filtering system is a good start. Ultra-Aire 105 H with the optional merv 14 air filter is a start. Even with the best of equipment, expect to take time to turn the space around.
Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
I think it is time to save up for ultra aire 70h.
I had the extra return removed...the house was ok for a while with a portabke dehumidifer. But when we hit heat pump mode weather, i have ver seriously bad breathing issues, going to the neurologist, there is a smell, my son is constantly sick, i cant begin to tell u hiw much i hate the ac industry for failing the public in this area so horribly right now
Btw humidity ist 47 to 50 percent right now. Just not sure what it is inside the air handler....probably not good sine heat pumps suck in that regard.
In the marines we called this type of a situation something that i cant say on this forum
I have came across this problem several times in my business. We have cleaned the evap coil,installed charcoal filters,and added more returns. Nothing has helped my customers except to replace the unit.
For a customer to have problems with the smell and then replace the unit and that fixes it long term tells me the problem is not in the ductwork. I have seen this problem on Amana and Goodman package units only.
Next time I encounter this problem again, I am going to recommend sending the coils off to get coated.
don't hate the industry, there is a large miscommunication gap between house problems & hvac problems.
Originally Posted by robotman2009
foam insulation companies etc.
while saving for dehumidifier, invest in an energy rating.
test house, duct system, plenum connections,
return air(s) and seal these leakage sites.
caulk is a good inexpensive sealant for house, mastic for
ducts/returns. air is stupid...it doesn't follow a logical pathway.
if the supply boxes aren't sealed, the other side of where supply grill attaches, then the
insulation around it enters the house.
as would large gaps around bath vent fans hidden by cover, and recessed lights
that are IC and not ICAT (Insulation Contact Air Tight)
these openings contribute to your child being sick, esp if you
have cellulose. cellulose contains a fine dust comprised of ground newspaper treated with
duct & house leakage sealing has a fast payback & inexpensive material cost.
the peace of mind & comfort is hard to put a price on, esp when your
child is suffering.
Resnet is the source for energy raters who test ducts as part of the service.
they could probably recommend someone they have worked with in the past
to do the work. as we test both before work is done & after...this provides
a way to measure what was accomplished. unlike utility sponsored audits
raters have to achieve a MINIMUM of 30% improvement. utilities don't want
to cut rate payer's cost this much, as it cuts into their bottom line of profit.
BPI is the source for Energy Auditors.
if you chose this route, specify that duct testing needs to be done.
both raters & auditors go through specific training in this field.
we are often the bridge between trades people & home owner.
best of luck.
The cure of the part should not be attempted without the cure of the whole. ~Plato