Oh I forgot...the 2nd and 1st guy said that it might be necessary to put glue...then metal tape...then mastic sealant along the edges of the vents to seal them better....to keep them from pulling in particles from attic...along with putting expanding foam in receptacles and plugs. Then do can lights to seal them.
comfortcontrolac...what is that rating in seer instead of ton? I might not be asking that question correctly. Also...what is the name of that fresh air intake? I've looked on websites and can't seem to track down what you are talking about.
Motoguy and Six...thanks for the replies.
I thought I did have a good guy come the first time. He looked at the system and didn't make any mention of fan speeds being wrong etc...of course he was the air quality guy not the AC guy...Six...what do you mean when you say oversized with no makeup
I'm not for sure on the walls of the house and the insulation...I can't see them without tearing stuff out.
So...let me do a little stop and check here....It sounds like the no matter what is causing the particles...the CO2 is a clear indication that the house is too tight and not ventilating the way it should...Correct?
Incidentally, our overall humidity was 61%...with a few peaks as high as 65%. That doesn't seem high enough for mold and stuff does it?
As far as the particles, it is possible they are coming from the attic right? Strong possiblility? Weak possibility?
Could those particles be coming from mold?
comfortcontrolac, this is the Ask Our Pro's forum, and only Pro members that have been vetted by the AOPC may post advise here. Please apply to the AOPC today, thank you.
You can find the rules for posting and qualifications here.
Further infractions may result in loss of posting privileges.
Fresh air intake is known as "make up air " in the industry.
A unit that has too much capacity ( over sized ) for a given area wont remove latent heat and will drop specific heat too quickly.
So temp comes down but not humidity. The installer should have done a heat load calculation.
Fan speed is important with humid climates needing usually a little less than 400 cfm per ton.
There are guys here that are very knowledgable about make up air per application.
More than I am but 61% RH too high.
So it could be an issue other than too much insulation if the unit is oversized?
I'm kinda enjoying the activity of looking stuff up on the Internet.
Here is my system information with model numbers..
Carrier Air handler
Comfortmaker Heat pump
According to this post http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/archive/ind.../t-720641.html
my air handler is rated at 3 1/2 tons....trying to find information on the heat pump.
On page 7 of this document it says that my unit is 5 ton.
Its possible. Igloo homes seem to be all the rage. People using open cell and close cell foam to seal and isnsulate every nook and cranny.
Originally Posted by robotman2009
My buddy did it to his attic and then wondered why his furnace wont fire.
And then some budget AC guy comes in and uses the basic eule of thumb of square footage to btu and now that house has serious issues that cant be easilly addressed.....or cheaply.
You need a fresh air change every 4-5 hours minimum when the home is occupied according to ASHRAE. We need to know the cubit footage of the home and the number of occupants to determine the how much fresh air is entering the home by looking at the CO2 levels.
Leaving all of the interior doors open eliminates any problem that a lack of individual returns from the rooms may cause. 50%RH and prober air change are the most basic issues. Good merv 11 air filters are suggested to keep epuipment clean and the air circulating in the home.
Cubic footage and number of occupants is the starting point. During calm weather, most homes need mechanical fresh filter air ventilation. During low/no cooling conditions, most homes need supplemental dehumidification.
There are whole house ventilating dehumidifiers available to provide fresh filtered and supplemental dehumidification when needed. Check out the Ultra-Aire whole house units that sponsor this web site.
Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
do you have gas appliances and if so where are they located?
The cure of the part should not be attempted without the cure of the whole. ~Plato
no gas appliances
12,020 cubic feet 3 occupants...two adults...one five year old.
I will have the guy who comes by today to check the fan speed.
It sounds like you all are recommending a fresh air dehumidifier device first...which would deal with humidity and CO2 levles.
Would it still be adviseable to 1) install an extra return along with fresh air dehudification, 2) seal the supply ducts between the metal and the ceiling sheetrock 3) along with sealing can lighting due to attic particles being pulled into the house? I mean in you all's opinion is attic particle explanation a reasonable explanation for the high particle levels?
Another issue could be the former occupants of the house...our house was vacant for about a year before we moved in....when it started warming up, about two months after moving in, I had two visitors remark about how it smelled a little like cigarettes. So, there may be an issue with our carpeting...but the bank who owned the house before us cleaned the carpets and we cleaned the carpets before we moved in. I don't know if this could be contributing to the high particle count or not.
Is this an adviseable dehumidifier/fresh air duct system?