The old type had some issues but since they added the dry R to it i have not had any compressor failures.
And you can not say that one can is an accurate test. Once you put in a hiegher volume you see the failure rate at a very small percent
I used it one time. Installed per manufactures instructions. In 3 days the compressor was locked up-never again.
The old type had some issues but since they added the dry R to it i have not had any compressor failures.
And you can not say that one can is an accurate test. Once you put in a hiegher volume you see the failure rate at a very small percent
I don't have a problem using ac leak freeze on a system that is old enough that the cost of a leak search and any repair costs don't make sense. If its 10 yrs old or more, is it really a good idea to put x amount of dollars into finding a leak and repairing it? Sometimes, but not every time. Ac leak freeze is an affordable alternative on older systems before replacing the system.
On systems less than 10 yrs old, I would recommend finding the leak every time. I would think this would lead to higher service revenue than just dropping in a leak sealant. If the system is too new to be looking at replacing, the leak needs to be found and fixed, IMO.
Did you diagnose why the compressors were locked up? I'm not saying it wasn't caused by something added to the system, but I think it's a good idea to be positive that the leak sealant was the cause. If you are putting leak sealant in older systems, there is a possibility the compressor may be on its way out.
Good point Gerber!
Also my options with sealer also include options with kick starts added which will help keep compressors that are one there way out from failing right away.
My boss would have my rear if I put Fix a Flat in a customers equipment. Use a Leak sniffer and re braze it or replace it, fix it right now or fix it right later. I'd rather fix it the right way now, and not have to come back out at 11pm unpaid.
If you have found the leak then yes it is good to fix it. But if it is a slow leak that is just a few lbs a year. Then is it not the customers choice as to how much they want to put in it.
No matter how old the unit is.
So i give them choices with my multi level flat rate book (The New Flat Rate).
And they opt. For a higher level 80-90% of the time.
Interesting thread.
I just put 2 cans in last week, both older systems. One as preventative after I repaired a leak, and the other one in a unit that loses a lb. per year.
I never thought I would do it. We are going to keep using it for now and watch our results.
Any large leak should be repaired, I wouldn't trust this stuff to seal a large leak.
We are using the NuCalgon product.
Thank you for all of the insight, I am still a firm believer in fixing leaks by brazing them, (if something sounds to good to be true it probably is!) but I also have several systems I have been on this summer and added r-22 to, leak checked only place my detector will go off is around the evap, but cannot get any bubbles to show the exact leak location. These systems are all 8-10 years old, just out of warranty, and just have a hard time justifying replacing just the evap on an older system, but also hard to swap out a system that is working. For now I just am keeping an eye on them so far have not had to add any more r-22 to them, will probably just top off the charge in the spring and keep them going unless they start going through a lot more r-22, I can see adding a pound or so for a year or two and once they use more than that replace the whole system, one is a payne and the fins are rotting off the copper tubes on the condenser, they don't have a dog, not sure if something else is peeing on the coil or what as it is just on the bottom of the condenser on the corner. I appreciate all of the helpful info on this topic!
This is the first year I've used leak sealant. I was very skeptical about using it since I remember quite a few years ago that a similar product would plug systems up. That product would plug up the compressor valves or cap tubes or any other "hole" in the system. However, I don't think that product was formulated to react in the prescence of air and moisture like the new products are.
I won't put it in a system if I think it may have sucked air and therefore moisture into the system. Also, I do not put it in systems that are still under warranty. I explain to the customer that to fix a leak can cost more than the system is worth unless it's just tightening something up with a wrench or replacing a valve core. I tell them that it is not 100% guaranteed to fix the leak. Most customers opt to have the stuff put in given the alternative. I have used both Nu Calgon's Easy Seal and Diversitech's LineSeal. So far I have had no complaints about it not working or it causing damage to systems. Can't say for sure about the long-term effects. Next year may tell a different tale.
I won't use the products that claim to remove moisture from a system. My feeling is that if you think a system has moisture in it and it is still under warranty you should recover the refrigerant and try to find the leak by pressurizing with nitrogen and a refrigerant trace. Then fix the leak or replace the leaking component. If it is out of warranty you should probably just replace the system.
My company has used it 5 times, the first three were lb a year leakers and havnt leaked again the other 2 locked down compressors within a week of injecting it, we haven't used it again
Never used it until this summer on a few old systems. They were leaking pretty well from the Evap coil. Used leak freeze brand because it seemed like it would cause the least amount of problems. Injected and recharged at the beginning of the summer and no problems so far. These customers were notified they were ginea pigs for this new product. We only used it on old systems that are planed to be replaced but if it works well we might not get to replace them now!!
I do agree but as technology changes and evolves new products will be tolerable. If people always believed what they were told the earth would still be flat and the sun revolves around us. Just think about how new synthetic Los are used today that last longer and protect better.mwomwould have thought that 100 years ago.
I agree about new products but how can any one say that product can stop a refrigerant leak and not stop up the metering device or any other device?
I dont know exactly but I've witness it work with my own eyes. We have only used it twice as a last resort for temp repair but I looked at the spot on the coil and checked it with my h10 and picked up no leak or oil like their had been before. This Leak Freeze product doesn't react with moisture or air and contains no polymers which is what I think is causing the blockage problems with other products. I think I use leakfreeze with magic frost which is suppose to quite noisy compressors as well. I took a before and after amp draw and it did go down believe it or not! If you do break down and try a sealant,mi do recommend finding and brazing, but in a pinch LEAKFREEZE is the only sealant I would even consider to use at this time.
These products react with air and water to harden and stop the leak (apparently except for the Leakfreeze mentioned above. If the system is dry and free of air, it will not damage the metering device or compressor. If the system is contaminated, leak stop will cause severe damage very quickly.
I have used NuCalgon EasySeal about 15 time and have had a very good success rate with it. A few times it has not worked, but it has never damaged a system.
I have used it 4 times within the past two years and so far the only reason we go back to the customers if of PMs.