1st boiler install from my new company
This guy was kinda cheap so he kept asking why we were replacing all this other stuff like the exp tank, auto fill, and why are you using copper, isn't that more expensive. Such a nuance but I know he was happy when we were done.
I know there are 2 gas shut off valves, my guys did that idk why, but its done now lol
Also we didn't do that hot water tank but we did re vent it to our new venting and I added a discharge tube in copper. We also fixed a gas leak where that flex connector hooked up to the hard pipe. Flex connectors were against code when I worked in the city of Toledo, Ohio but apparently out here in Fremont no one cares about code. lol I'll be getting some pics for the wall of shame soon.
Hello to a fellow "ex" Toledoan
I actually traversed to Fremont indiana
Job looks good, what Co you working with?
What Co did you come from (toledo)?
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Are you pumping toward the expansion tank?
It does not look like it if you make the pic bigger.
Originally Posted by BaldLoonie
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The expansion tank and air-out assembly should be on the suction side of the pump for proper air removal. Do yourself a favor and buy a copy of "Pumping Away" by Dan Holohan. It's the best investment you can make if you plan on installing hot water systems. In fact, buy all his steam and HW books, and if you ever get the chance, go to one of his seminars.
A few picky points- the discharge tube on the relief valve should be no more than 6" from the floor, and no less than 2x the diameter of the pipe OD. A little hard to tell, but I think you are a bit over 6".
I like to put a valved bypass around the fill valve... but you did say the customer was tight.
Are there 2 shut-off valves on the water feed?
Nice piping work (few installers seem to know what a 45 is!). Set up for easy service.
Link to Pumping Away-
Experience is what you have an hour after you need it.
Yeah the pump is on the supply side of the system and the expansion tank and air scoop are on the return side coming into the boiler, so I would say it is on the suction side of the pump? idk maybe I'm wrong but its definitely not right after the pump.
As far a the discharge tube that is correct this one is about 10 inches from the floor (agree it should be 6). I only did that because i like to put a bucket under it during a clean and tune and blow out the crud to make sure the relief works properly. So that was preference choice on this install.
That fill valve has the fast fill lever. But that an interesting thing i may consider sometime.
Yeah when we tore out the old one i put that threaded valve on there really just to turn back on water before i left for the day. Left it in there and soldered on one i can turn and not worry about it leaking when i need to clean the screen during maintenance.
I used to work at M and M Heating and Cooling in downtown Toledo. Worked there about 5 years with 4 years in service. For those of you who don't know M and M was one of the largest in Toledo, aprox 65 employees full time. Moved out here to Fremont, Ohio to start my own company. It's been one year but i have 2 vans 2 guys and an office lady (part time).
I didn't realize you could change the code book to make your work easier.
Originally Posted by Effhvacsteve
Experience is what you have an hour after you need it.
Not that this changes anything but I've rarely seen a boiler in this area with a discharge tube on it at all. I made a choice to make a few inches shorter on purpose, I will be the one servicing this equipment in the future and yes my work will be easier. Thank you for your input.
WH gas flex connector >3ft, no sediment trap, no support for vent connector. This is why you never use 'tallboy' water heaters-no vent rise.
No isolation valve to thermal expansion tank. Have to drop the whole system to check charge or replace tank
No LWCO-required even on hot water boilers now
No discharge tube on backflow preventer vent-see plumbing code
Pump before everything on supply-should be last thing before the zones.
Vent connectors appear connected to a galvanized steel breaching cemented into the wall without a thimble. Can use galvy if in a thimble of clay or stainless steel but not in direct contact with masonry..
No cleanout within 12" of base of chimney
Hollow CMU blocks probably not filled. This makes a chimney of sorts that conducts heat directly to mudsill 16" above. Common cause of fires.
I think I see a sediment trap on the gas to the boiler but that piping should be supported.
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
...We did not install that hot water heater.
There are isolation valves on both sides of the expansion tank, one is hidden in the picture but the other is the return shut off valve.
This boiler has a LWCO built in
Pump is the first thing on the supply! is everyone blind?
As far as the chimney goes it has a clay liner i may be wrong but I've never been required to run a chimney liner in a clay chimney.
The gas line is hung with a piece of strap iron at the 3/4 90 that comes down to the boiler.
Maybe I should have posted a few more pictures from a few different angles you guys are having a hayday with all the stuff you can't even see in the picture.
Lastly your right i didn't install a discharge tube from the backflow preventer vent.