FWIW I pulled a vacuum on my small 30# recovery tank today three different ways
after a few pulls to clear it out I timed using.....
1. 3/8 YJ hose with 3/8x1/4 fitting on the liquid valve and 3/8 YJ hose with 3/8x1/4 fitting to the vapor valve. connections went directly to my JB7cfm
2. 1/2 Appion hose with 3/8x1/4 fitting on the vapor valve and the same 3/8 YJ hose on the liquid valve. Both hoses directly to my pump.
I did each way twice (YJ,YJ)-(A,YJ)-(A,YJ)-(YJ,YJ) in this order.
1. pulled the tank down to 25000 microns in 0:49sec. and 4:45 min to 500 microns.
2. pulled the tank down to 25000 microns in 0:47sec. and 2:46 min to 500 microns and in 4:00 min. went down to 270 microns.
3. The last one 4S&G's I did a YJ TitanII that I pulled the restrictive stainless steel mesh out of each port. Had 2- 3Ft 1/4" hoses with the core depressor in like you would have for regular service to the wide open liquid and vapor valves on the tank and one 3/8 hose with 3/8x3/8 fittings to the 3/8 port on the manifold and 3/8 on the pump.
3. pulled the tank down to 25000 microns in 1:00min. and 16:00 mins. to 500 microns.
If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball
I've just gotten turned onto this stuff in the past couple of weeks.
Originally Posted by cy
I haven't tried it on an evacuation, yet, but a few gaskets and fittings.
I like it so far.
Ive come to like nylog more than anything else at this point. At first applying it wasn't like anything i was accustom to as it is very tacky/stretchy ...
For anyone who is interested, I pulled the flare adapter out of my Yellow Jacket 6 CFM pump, confirmed the thread is standard 3/4" MPT. I then went to the local Home Improvement, bought a 3/4" by close brass nipple, 3/4" brass tee, and two 3/4" MPT by 3/8" male flare adapters, and mounted on my pump. I don't think I could get any less joints in the vacuum train.
Hi, my name is Glenn, and I'm a Toolaholic!
Last edited by cy; 06-11-2012 at 08:08 PM.
One important thing is if you are going to use Nylog, keep fittings and hoses and core tools caped and plugged when not in use. We have everything in the TTT kit this way. Nylog is very tacky, and will hold any dirt that attracts to it. You are then left to use solvent on the gaskets and clean them and re apply the sealant. I also cap things just to keep out any moisture.
Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm
Some of those tees and fittings appear to be AN,MS or JIC units which have 37 degree flares. SAE stuff is 45 degrees. If you use the correct collar and nut, the flare on the tube will flex somewhat to seal, but it does seem to cause flare cracking pretty quick.
I am new to Nylog as well, but really like the stuff.
I've learned in school that if you pull a vacuum too fast it can freeze any moisture in the system before it has the time to evaporate.
EPA 608 certified: Universal
thanks for pointing that out... all the brass fittings are 45 degrees, which are the fittings that gets used.
Originally Posted by va-sawyer
yanked stainless fittings out of the stash for pic's without noticing the angle differences.
apologies for the mix-up. pic's are deleted to avoid any chance of confusion.
Originally Posted by Kaleun494
Quite unlikely under normal conditions.
Before Nylog there was Deep Vacuum Grease by Corning.
Been using Robinair brand Vacuum Grease on my evacs for years.
A full tube the size of a small toothpaste tube cost about sixty bucks.
half an once of the robinair brand is $5.99.
I don't see any advantage to Nylog at least for evacuation purposes.
If I'm wrong, will can somebody steer me right and tell me why why Nylog would be better in evacuation?
I do not think there really is an advantage as far as getting a good vacuum. The fact that you are using any assembly grease means you're on the right path. Too many times nobody uses anything and they end up galling the gaskets and having a leak.
if there is an advantage to the system though it's the fact that nylog is made out of the same oil as the system oil so you don't take any chance of contaminating the system with anything that shouldn't go into it
It can but it will still sublime like dry ice. That's how food gets freezer burn and how freeze drying is done.
Originally Posted by Kaleun494
Imagine you're evacuating a glass bottle you just rinsed. Thermal mass will prevent it from icing up. If it's half full of water, it will freeze up. The bigger problem lies in the fact there is THAT much water in the system rather than that it can freeze up.
If it's POE, the oil is not salvageable. POE will dissolve with water like brake fluid.
If it's MO system, pool of water will be damaging to compressor and anything prone to rusting.