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  1. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    wedged in freezer shelf
    Posts
    6,653
    FWIW I pulled a vacuum on my small 30# recovery tank today three different ways
    after a few pulls to clear it out I timed using.....

    1. 3/8 YJ hose with 3/8x1/4 fitting on the liquid valve and 3/8 YJ hose with 3/8x1/4 fitting to the vapor valve. connections went directly to my JB7cfm

    2. 1/2 Appion hose with 3/8x1/4 fitting on the vapor valve and the same 3/8 YJ hose on the liquid valve. Both hoses directly to my pump.

    I did each way twice (YJ,YJ)-(A,YJ)-(A,YJ)-(YJ,YJ) in this order.

    1. pulled the tank down to 25000 microns in 0:49sec. and 4:45 min to 500 microns.

    2. pulled the tank down to 25000 microns in 0:47sec. and 2:46 min to 500 microns and in 4:00 min. went down to 270 microns.

    3. The last one 4S&G's I did a YJ TitanII that I pulled the restrictive stainless steel mesh out of each port. Had 2- 3Ft 1/4" hoses with the core depressor in like you would have for regular service to the wide open liquid and vapor valves on the tank and one 3/8 hose with 3/8x3/8 fittings to the 3/8 port on the manifold and 3/8 on the pump.


    3. pulled the tank down to 25000 microns in 1:00min. and 16:00 mins. to 500 microns.
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  2. #41
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    25,551
    Quote Originally Posted by cy View Post
    thanks for recommending Nylog.. that's some neat looking stuff



    I've just gotten turned onto this stuff in the past couple of weeks.

    I haven't tried it on an evacuation, yet, but a few gaskets and fittings.

    I like it so far.

  3. #42
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    4,381
    Ive come to like nylog more than anything else at this point. At first applying it wasn't like anything i was accustom to as it is very tacky/stretchy ...

  4. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Palatine Il.
    Posts
    389
    For anyone who is interested, I pulled the flare adapter out of my Yellow Jacket 6 CFM pump, confirmed the thread is standard 3/4" MPT. I then went to the local Home Improvement, bought a 3/4" by close brass nipple, 3/4" brass tee, and two 3/4" MPT by 3/8" male flare adapters, and mounted on my pump. I don't think I could get any less joints in the vacuum train.

    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Hi, my name is Glenn, and I'm a Toolaholic!

  5. #44
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Tulsa
    Posts
    286
    Quote Originally Posted by Glenn Harrison View Post
    For anyone who is interested, I pulled the flare adapter out of my Yellow Jacket 6 CFM pump, confirmed the thread is standard 3/4" MPT. I then went to the local Home Improvement, bought a 3/4" by close brass nipple, 3/4" brass tee, and two 3/4" MPT by 3/8" male flare adapters, and mounted on my pump. I don't think I could get any less joints in the vacuum train.

    nice simple setup! you've got four new joints including all thread stub which has two sealing points.

    double female flare fitting are easily made with your flaring tool (shorty double flare are purchased). then add either a three way T fitting or four way fitting. both adds two joints to factory male flare fitting. In case you couldn't tell... I'm a Toolaholic too!

    both ways are getting down to lowest number of connections. using flare fitting are more versatile. that is if one is working on semi-hermetic units with more than two fittings.

    three way T flare and four way flare fittings are available from most any local hydraulic hose shop. easy to torque flare fittings for a tight seal.





    Last edited by cy; 06-11-2012 at 08:08 PM.

  6. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Akron
    Posts
    1,115
    Quote Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm View Post
    I've just gotten turned onto this stuff in the past couple of weeks.

    I haven't tried it on an evacuation, yet, but a few gaskets and fittings.

    I like it so far.
    One important thing is if you are going to use Nylog, keep fittings and hoses and core tools caped and plugged when not in use. We have everything in the TTT kit this way. Nylog is very tacky, and will hold any dirt that attracts to it. You are then left to use solvent on the gaskets and clean them and re apply the sealant. I also cap things just to keep out any moisture.
    JLB,

  7. #46
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    30
    Some of those tees and fittings appear to be AN,MS or JIC units which have 37 degree flares. SAE stuff is 45 degrees. If you use the correct collar and nut, the flare on the tube will flex somewhat to seal, but it does seem to cause flare cracking pretty quick.

    I am new to Nylog as well, but really like the stuff.

    Rick

  8. #47
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    218
    I've learned in school that if you pull a vacuum too fast it can freeze any moisture in the system before it has the time to evaporate.


    EPA 608 certified: Universal

  9. #48
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Tulsa
    Posts
    286
    Quote Originally Posted by va-sawyer View Post
    Some of those tees and fittings appear to be AN,MS or JIC units which have 37 degree flares. SAE stuff is 45 degrees. If you use the correct collar and nut, the flare on the tube will flex somewhat to seal, but it does seem to cause flare cracking pretty quick.

    I am new to Nylog as well, but really like the stuff.

    Rick
    thanks for pointing that out... all the brass fittings are 45 degrees, which are the fittings that gets used.
    yanked stainless fittings out of the stash for pic's without noticing the angle differences.

    apologies for the mix-up. pic's are deleted to avoid any chance of confusion.

  10. #49
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    25,551
    Quote Originally Posted by Kaleun494 View Post
    I've learned in school that if you pull a vacuum too fast it can freeze any moisture in the system before it has the time to evaporate.
    Theoretically possible.

    Quite unlikely under normal conditions.

  11. #50
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    NW burbs of Detroit
    Posts
    6,058
    Before Nylog there was Deep Vacuum Grease by Corning.
    Been using Robinair brand Vacuum Grease on my evacs for years.

    A full tube the size of a small toothpaste tube cost about sixty bucks.

    half an once of the robinair brand is $5.99.

    I don't see any advantage to Nylog at least for evacuation purposes.

    If I'm wrong, will can somebody steer me right and tell me why why Nylog would be better in evacuation?

  12. #51
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Akron
    Posts
    1,115
    I do not think there really is an advantage as far as getting a good vacuum. The fact that you are using any assembly grease means you're on the right path. Too many times nobody uses anything and they end up galling the gaskets and having a leak.

    if there is an advantage to the system though it's the fact that nylog is made out of the same oil as the system oil so you don't take any chance of contaminating the system with anything that shouldn't go into it
    JLB,

  13. #52
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    2,617
    Quote Originally Posted by Kaleun494 View Post
    I've learned in school that if you pull a vacuum too fast it can freeze any moisture in the system before it has the time to evaporate.
    It can but it will still sublime like dry ice. That's how food gets freezer burn and how freeze drying is done.

    Imagine you're evacuating a glass bottle you just rinsed. Thermal mass will prevent it from icing up. If it's half full of water, it will freeze up. The bigger problem lies in the fact there is THAT much water in the system rather than that it can freeze up.

    If it's POE, the oil is not salvageable. POE will dissolve with water like brake fluid.

    If it's MO system, pool of water will be damaging to compressor and anything prone to rusting.

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