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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fremont, Indiana
    Posts
    1,726

    Steam cleaner 4 kitchen coils

    Anyone using a steam cleaner on greasy kitchen condenser coils?
    If so, which or what brand/type are you having luck with? What techniques are you using.

    I picked up a HAAN HS-20 (little handheld with a wand), and it didn't even come close to clearing the grease off a coil.


    [Link removed by Admin per the owner of this product. Seems they don't like us linking to their site. So be it. REMOVED]
    Last edited by Dad; 12-10-2012 at 12:43 PM.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    wedged in freezer shelf
    Posts
    7,182
    Did it once with a big propane powered one. Was basically a tall pressure washer that shot steam. Wasn't worth the trouble or mess IMO. I use chemicals and a wet dry vac now.
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Tulsa, OK
    Posts
    990
    Mixture of concentrated dawn and very hot water, spray coil let it set 5 mins and power wash off. My former owner boss blew my mind with the results doing that!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    North West FL
    Posts
    97
    I worked on cars for many years. So I have carried some things over to the hvac field. One thing is that I use an automotive degreaser to clean grease off coils. Its safe, cheap and works great. Spray on and wash off. No heat, steam or high pressure needed.
    www.mcleanair.com

    "It was working until it quit."

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    GTA, ON
    Posts
    1,288
    Quote Originally Posted by McLean Air View Post
    I worked on cars for many years. So I have carried some things over to the hvac field. One thing is that I use an automotive degreaser to clean grease off coils. Its safe, cheap and works great. Spray on and wash off. No heat, steam or high pressure needed.
    Like brake cleaner or an engine degreaser?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    4,381
    I tried the steam route once upon a time. it definitely wasn't the answer. I started to chemically clean them the best i possibly could & depending on how serious the grease either put foam or aluminum mesh in the front if it, more times foam. I found whether the coil if plugged or the filter it's gonna be easier to just cut a new piece of foam than re clean coil knowing it's a p.i.t.a.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    wedged in freezer shelf
    Posts
    7,182
    Quote Originally Posted by Moonrunner View Post
    Like brake cleaner or an engine degreaser?
    I did gunk once. Man did it stink bad.
    You got one that doesn't stink bad?
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    GTA, ON
    Posts
    1,288
    No idea.. My degreaser of choice has always been kerosene. Probably not recommended in a food production facility Heard of some Auto Glym stuff that's supposed to be non-toxic and biodegradable, but can't make any guarantees as to its effectiveness or smell for that matter. We'll just have to wait for McLean Air to chime in.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    North West FL
    Posts
    97
    The stuff I use is called muscle magic. You do have to cut it quite a bit with water, but it still works great. If you do not cut it enough, it will eat the metal. I buy it by the gallon and I can get 6-8 gallons of mix out of just one gallon of cleaner. Remember, you can't use it without cutting it down! Here is a link: http://www.superiorproducts.com/inde...oduct_id=30112
    My local auto parts store keeps some on the shelf for me. $8.00 a gallon. It beats simple green, and purple power, hands down.
    www.mcleanair.com

    "It was working until it quit."

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    North West FL
    Posts
    97
    Quote Originally Posted by Moonrunner View Post
    Like brake cleaner or an engine degreaser?
    Brake parts cleaner does not have any working time. It will flash off before it can do any work. Also, you don't want to be in a confined space with that stuff. Engine degreaser foams alot, but that can get messy.
    www.mcleanair.com

    "It was working until it quit."

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    GTA, ON
    Posts
    1,288
    Thanks for the clarification.. Might be a bit risky, but I can see where it can be the right tool for the job.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    12,275

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    12,275
    We clean a bunch of kitchen condenser coils... what a mess. I don't do steam anymore. It seems to make matters worse.

    I use Foam'n Clean cut by 70% water. Let it sit on a powerless condenser for 5 minutes then hose the crap out of it. Hot water works best but cold works too. Rinse WELL !!. It works great but don't spray any controls or fan motors. Condenser fan motors will crap out that day or the next.

    If a top mounted condenser is cleaned then tilt the reach in to the back. We use a 2 ton hydraulic floor jack. The cleaner and water will rush to the back of the box. If it is allowed to run down the sides or front it will stain the dull aluminum, even the front stainless will streak.

    We then use a small shop vac to suck the dirty water off the floor and follow up with a clean water mop. It's not an easy job. If you don't get the soap water off the floor someone could slip and fall. You must warn all who enter the kitchen.

    If bi-monthly or even quarterly PM are contracted then buy a flat sheet of 3/16th foam window shaker black filter pads. Cut to fit the entire coil. Use jumbo paperclips to hold the pad by pushing the double end through the pad and slide onto a condenser fin. Do this on all 4 corners or just the top two. You can wash the filter pad on the next PM through the dishwasher or mop sink. Dry them by shaking and put them back on. DO NOT leave them on without cleaning them for longer than 90 days.

    DO NOT USE ROLL TYPE FOAM (open cell) FILTER MATERIAL. The thickness was changed a few years back and is too restrictive now. The compressor will over heat on blend refrigerants. When the roll type is used and as it ages it will stiffen up and make it useless. Use the single sheets only. The poly hair filter material (blue and white crap) is about as useless as a tit on a bore-hog. Waste of time and money.

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