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Thread: Results of Low E barrier paint
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07-04-2006, 02:32 PM #1
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I got a 5 gallon drum of Low E barrier paint from Sherwin Williams and I am painting the underside of my attic roof
I am about halfway done
Already I am noticing a 10 to 15 deg F drop in internal temperature
Outside is 95 F at 2 PM, inside is 80 F and so far I have not had to turn on AC yet
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07-04-2006, 02:56 PM #2
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That's good to know. I need to research this. Is there a version for exterior surfaces (like siding)?
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07-05-2006, 11:24 AM #3Originally posted by xv80satisfiedcust
That's good to know. I need to research this. Is there a version for exterior surfaces (like siding)?
This is turtle.
I've been there and checked it out. it is nothing but the dust from the tiles from the space shuttle to protect it from the heat that is built up when the shuttle comes back into the earth air and becomes very hot. The air drag on the tiles on the nose of the shuttle will get to 2,000 degree when coming home. this powder that goes in paint is nothing but this tile material ground up and put in the paint as a powder. You can buy it as in the the paint already or buy the bags of the white powder and put in the cheap paint you buy. The White powder to mix up 10 gallions of paint will get you for about $65.00+ and works like this. After while i will try to go through my websites saved and get the maker of the powder to see.
For the stuff put in paint used on the sunny side of a wall and is to stop the the heat rays of the sun from build up heat to come or form on the wall where the stuff is painted on the wall. For heat rays of the sun hitting a wall to heat it up. In preventing the wall from heating up and causing heat to be transmitted into the house though the wall has a valve of near R-20 for only the stopping the heat ray from the sun from heating up the wall. This powder in the paint will hold the heat on the outside of the paint to be given off to the air that passes by. the paint can get hot but under it , it stays cool and no heat to be transmitted to the wood and on into the house. At this condition of the heat from the rays of the sun hitting the wall , it will be a R-20 value or more as to how stronge you mix the powder in the paint.
now as to the powder and painted wall with this stuff on it in with no sun rays hitting the wall , but just heat of out doors to get through the painted wall. You have only a R-3 valve at best. Say nite time no sun shinning and hot outdoors the R value will be around or on R-3 value. The stuff is for heat caused from the rays of the sun hitting the wall and you get the r-20 value but at nite no sun lite or shadied side of the house with no sun directly hitting the wall it has a R-3 value. Now most of my info was from the fellow down at the hardware store where they sell it from and was told to him by the salesman or rep. of this stuff. Here is a off the net look at one seller of this stuff.
http://www.hytechsales.com/
TURTLE
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07-05-2006, 09:53 PM #4
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they are busy working
gsubrec
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Moderator please move this thread to
my thread on Sherwin Williams E-barrier paint
When you google on Hytech, you find 3 manufacturers of similar stuff all making claims against each other
You will find Hytech, Insuladd, etc all making similar claims and dissing the other vendors, that I dont know whom to believe
At least Sherwin williams is a reputed vendor and it has worked for me
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07-05-2006, 10:37 PM #5
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Ok Turtle,
My interpretation of your description is:
This paint is the best value for people who want to minimize solar heat gain. In my climate, if I'm most concerned about heat loss at night, I won't have as much benefit. (Summer heat gain is very minimal).
Long term, instead of replacing my particle board siding, I was thinking of styrofoam (or icynene competitor) and then putting mesh and then stucco after that.
But, for houses that are already well insulated, this paint or paint additive gives additional savings.
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07-05-2006, 10:40 PM #6
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what if you paint over the stuff in a few years, does it still work?
Or did turtle already "cover" that?
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07-06-2006, 10:07 AM #7Superb! Try insulating as wellOriginally posted by gsubrec
I got a 5 gallon drum of Low E barrier paint from Sherwin Williams and I am painting the underside of my attic roof
I am about halfway done
Already I am noticing a 10 to 15 deg F drop in internal temperature
Outside is 95 F at 2 PM, inside is 80 F and so far I have not had to turn on AC yet
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07-06-2006, 10:27 AM #8
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saw this demo about 5y/a here at home show in Hsvl AL -- at that time most of the claim was for fire- proofing.
do some measurements of temps in attic & outside in next 3 weeks, PLEASE. say, at 3pm & 8pm. when outdoor =>92F.
-- check your thermo in boiling [212F] & slurry of ice & water [32F] --
I use a $25 digital cooking thermometer -- even while cooking meat.
[Edited by cem-bsee on 07-06-2006 at 11:55 AM]harvest rainwater,make SHADE,R75/50/30= roof/wall/floor, use HVAC mastic,caulk all wall seams!
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07-06-2006, 08:18 PM #9
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Anybody used Nansulate ?
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07-06-2006, 09:57 PM #10
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xv80satisfiedcust,
I think that companies like HyTech Thermal Solutions do maintain that they can reduce heat loss via conduction from inside out with their ceramic paint additive .
This, I think, is a different mechanism than the typical radiant barrier heat paint which contains aluminum.
Actually, they make a paint which has both, aluminum and ceramic particles.
I think there are other companies which do the same.
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07-06-2006, 11:16 PM #11
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Ceramic -
That's what I breifly heard/read about. Any recommendations ?
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07-07-2006, 01:48 PM #12
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xv80satisfiedcust,
I am still not sure whether HyTech Thermal Solutions considers the primary mechanism of action of their ceramic product to be conductive or reflective or both, but here are a few links which may help:
http://www.sti.nasa.gov/tto/spinoff2003/er_4.html
http://www.hytechsales.com/savings.html
The latter has recommendations for application in primarily cold climates.
Hopes this helps.
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07-07-2006, 02:34 PM #13
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That's great. I believe in the effects of radiant barriers in general, especially in the hot south, but how would that stuff work in northern climates such as New Jersey? Would it be counterproductive in the winter? Anyone have experience with that or radiant barriers there? From what I've read, it's not really reccomended in the northern climates.


