Nice work!!!
Installed an 18,000 BTU Heat Pump in a 2 Car garage that is used for the "Hang Out". The Customer spent over $1500.00 on L.P. Gas this past winter using a wall heater. Last year their electric bill doubled with a 12,500 window unit. They should pay this back soon. Had to wall mount the outdoor unit because of their dogs.
Nice work!!!
HOPE IS WHAT WE CRAVE
How did you go about making the line size length the factory minimum?
"The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers it can bribe the public with the public's own money.
- Alexis de Toqueville, 1835
How much distance in between the unit and wall? What is the min IAW manufactur?
Nice job, is the mount from Mit?
Did you have to adjust the charge for short line set?
STUD
Looks Sharp. I hope the access to the pc boards isn't from the top like Fujitsu.:banghead: or like was said line set min. issue .
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The line set is about 10 ft. I did have to remove a bit of refrigerant. The mount is a Mitsubishi Wall Mount Kit. Everything is accessible. You can Pull the top and work from a 6 or 8 foot ladder with no problem.
In the install instruction the minimum line set length is indicated, should be anyway. The unit just will not work correctly unless the min and max line set lengths are kept. Maybe yours is OK but I would double check anyway.
"The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers it can bribe the public with the public's own money.
- Alexis de Toqueville, 1835
Nice work!
I just looked in the install manual for both the FE 18 and the GE 18 (not sure which one you have) and couldn't find anything on minimum line length. In all the Mitsubishi training I have been to, I haven't heard of a minimum line length requirement.
We have installed a lot of them with short linesets and no problems. You will notice higher noise levels in heat mode. With a short lineset you will be able to hear the compressor ramping up and down from inside.
Fujitsu requires a minimum of 9 ft lineset, but only for noise concerns not for operation.
Very nice... I use LG, but the wall mount looks pretty much the same. I actually prefer the wall mounts... I think there's less chance of damage or theft when it's mounted over 6 feet up on the wall.
Nice job...we've wound up mounting quite a few up on walls lately, usually at commercial jobs.
Just curious if you guys out there are installing service switches at the indoor units with there ductless splits? I work with a master electrician that insists they must be there. We have been using white or ivory 2p1t switches indoors with old work elec. boxes.
Baha no
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"The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers it can bribe the public with the public's own money.
- Alexis de Toqueville, 1835
Most codes should not require a service switch for the indoor section because the wiring going from the outdoor unit to the wall mount is a control circuit. I do understand that it is line voltage.
It is nice how you kept it up off the ground.
I notice Mitsubishi's installation instructions they say to insulate the condensate drain. Does anyone really do that or know why in the world do you need to?
How is that working out for you guys, the service switches at the indoor unit. I always thought that the disconnect was supposed to be between the main power line and the outdoor unit, since the outdoor unit feeds power to the indoor unit.
I heard that if you interrupt power between the two units you will get error messages when you turn the power back on, but if you kill power upstream from the outdoor unit, you will not have any problems.
Are you guys getting any error messages?
-chris
aec.us.com
You must break all three wires between the out door unit and indoor unit to meet code, if it applied in your area. There is a special 3 pole double throw switch that can be purchased for this requirement. I forget who makes them but they are easy to find.
One conductor is used as the info transmitter and that is where the error codes start..if that switch point is not solid. Also, the starting or disconnecting of the power to the unit and/or the inside switch should be done in a specific order in order to lessen the chance of getting an error code.
I beleive that all of the inside switches should be made before powering up the outside unit first.
"The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers it can bribe the public with the public's own money.
- Alexis de Toqueville, 1835
Nice install!
Have found switching the control wire will cause problems over time, theres no current but the voltage ranges up and down to about 70v i think, from both the indoor and outdoor boards so it doesn't take much of a resistance to alter or stop the signal.
What we have done in the past is run power from the outdoor disconnect to a switch by the indoor unit and then back out to the outdoor unit, that way either switch will remove all power from the system and you are not switching the interconnecting wire which the systems were never designed to have happen.
I'll bet they're gonna hang out in that garage and drink beer.
Nice, clean work!
The picture in my avatar is of the Houston Ship Channel and was taken from my backyard. I like to sit outside and slap mosquitos while watching countless supertankers, barges and cargo ships of every shape and size carry all sorts of deadly toxins to and fro. It's really beautiful at times.....just don't eat the three eyed fish....
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