Went on a call about a month ago, gas pack had been through 3 ECM blower motors in 7 years they called us bc the company that changed the motors said they will only warranty the same piece 3 times in the 10 year warranty period, went out and opened the blower compartment door and the 18" flex was completely disconected from unit. How the other tech didn't see this when changing the blower 3 times is beyond me. Fixed the duct and put new motor in and the next day the customer called and asked what we did bc the unit was keeping the house cool and not running all the time like it had. There was not sp on the return duct causing the motor to overamp and burn up the ECM motor. Had it been a psc it would have pulled less amps.
You might want both. Nice to know sp of filter, just like nice to know coil.
So, drilling into the fan compartment, ok. But if coil directly atop furnace, what? Definitely not comfortable drilling coil box. There some trick to this?
Which makes more sense to you? CONSERVATION - turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10% ENERGY EFFICIENCY - leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%
So, drilling into the fan compartment, ok. But if coil directly atop furnace, what? Definitely not comfortable drilling coil box. There some trick to this?
I've drilled right at the edge where the plenum meets the furnace casing.
You might want both. Nice to know sp of filter, just like nice to know coil.
So, drilling into the fan compartment, ok. But if coil directly atop furnace, what? Definitely not comfortable drilling coil box. There some trick to this?
i drill a boat load of holes when testing. i use a 3/6" - 1/2" step bit. as for as the hole above standard furnace and below a-coil. keep an eye on the drain port. there should be no part of the coil below that.
some times even that isnt enough, such as cases coils. then the back of the furnace cabinet gets stabbed. if everywhere seems impossible a final option woulg be to replace any screw in the faceplate with a #10 panel screw and use the 1/8" diameter 12" pitot tube that dwyer sells. 1/8" tubing fits in a hole left by a # 10 screw
my boss thinks its possible to repeal the laws of physics
i drill a boat load of holes when testing. i use a 3/6" - 1/2" step bit. as for as the hole above standard furnace and below a-coil. keep an eye on the drain port. there should be no part of the coil below that.
some times even that isnt enough, such as cases coils. then the back of the furnace cabinet gets stabbed. if everywhere seems impossible a final option woulg be to replace any screw in the faceplate with a #10 panel screw and use the 1/8" diameter 12" pitot tube that dwyer sells. 1/8" tubing fits in a hole left by a # 10 screw
Awesome, Thanks!!!
... on the bit, I know I need to get one of those. Just keep flaking it.
Which makes more sense to you? CONSERVATION - turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10% ENERGY EFFICIENCY - leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%
I remove the limit, apply a piece of foil tape over the opening, and take my reading there if there isn't any room between the coil and the furnace.
Teddkid, I don't know how you deal with the weather in Rochester. I went to RIT back in 1999-2001. The lake effect snow and wind up there is killer. I realized why they had tunnels underground on campus to get around!
You might want both. Nice to know sp of filter, just like nice to know coil.
So, drilling into the fan compartment, ok. But if coil directly atop furnace, what? Definitely not comfortable drilling coil box. There some trick to this?
I cut a piece of 3/8 copper tubing and sleeve the bit only allowing the tip to make the hole, the copper stops the bit from penetrating any further and do any damage.
Hi I heard about static pressures in class, but was never utilized. I feel like i am missing something huge. Is there a manual for newbees on static pressure measuring, where to measure, and what kinds of measurments we are supposed to see for different issues like blocked return etc....? Great topic
Hi I heard about static pressures in class, but was never utilized. I feel like i am missing something huge. Is there a manual for newbees on static pressure measuring, where to measure, and what kinds of measurments we are supposed to see for different issues like blocked return etc....? Great topic
Welcome to HVAC-TALK. If you have scanned a few of the other posts in this "OPEN" (anyone can view) Tech-Tech forum, you probably have noticed we don't post manuals or technical information. This Tech-Tech forum is just a means for guys like you to work on getting Pro membership without getting too technical.
If you get your post count up to 15, and apply for PRO membership, it will allow you into the "LOCKED" Pro side of this forum where we openly talk and post technical information.
The other very important thing to do, is fill out your profile on this forum (under Forum Actions), including an email address (Stomp! Stomp!), so we can read a little about you.
So to answer your question, there is a lot of info/references on this subject that we would love to pass onto you, but can't until you get pro membership.
Again welcome, and look forward to seeing you on the other side.
Instead of learning the tricks of the trade, learn the trade.
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Originally Posted by DeHeatify
