Building a walk in cooler (stick built style)

[VTP99]

if the seal behind the FRP is so important it sounds like I should but vapor barrier on it too? But that goes against what I've always been told about totally sealing up a wall.

Vapor barrier goes on the warm side, in this case the outer side of the insulated wall. But isn't it the same as a house were you want the cool side able to breath a bit to remove what moisture leaks in the wall ?

I'm just speaking from what I have seen first hand. FRP holding pockets of water. Not pretty some of it coming down. If you glue it I would suggest rolling on the glue like laminate. Also many homes now use Tyvek on the outside.

[foxtrot]

Well since everything in the cooler is "packaged" in buckets or bags the health dept. told me that I can use plywood as long as its epoxy coated. If I scratched the FRP and just used plywood with the vapor barrier on the outside would it be an issue?

I don't mind putting vapor barrier on both sides, I just want to make sure I'm doing it right the first time so I don't have to come back a year later.

[VTP99]

FRP sure does make for a nice finish. Epoxy can get pricey too. I would feel safe with the FRP roller glued down and no fasteners going thru. The seams I would consider putting silicone into the H dividers then inserting the panel. It would be nice if we could get more suggestions.

[SandShark]

Thanks its just I got a little thin skinned after getting read the riot act by a few guys at the supply houses when I asked them a few questions and that's why I decided to try you guys here on HVAC-TALK.

No problem. I understand how that can happen. However, I know almost all the HVAC/R contractors in Galveston. I worked for one for 26 years on the island. I've worked on a few stick-built walk-in-coolers/freezers. One of the long-time popular restaurants on the island has a couple of stick-built walk-ins in their kitchen. If you were in the business in Galveston, I probably know you. In fact, I'm pretty sure I know you. If you want, I can call my ex-boss or one of the other contractors I know who won't give you a hard time and maybe hook you up with one of them. You probably know them. Let me know and I'll do what I can to help. If not, that's cool, too.

[craig1]

But with a semi-herm not having any shell to take any accidental slugs of refrigerant is it something to consider vs the rust and other issues down the road?

use a good TXV and set up the system to pump down on shut off and you shouldn't get any slugs of liquid.

[foxtrot]

use a good TXV and set up the system to pump down on shut off and you shouldn't get any slugs of liquid.

Well I'm going with a Beacon II setup (already have one on the medium temp box) so it has the pump down covered. I know some kinda frown on Beacon systems but I've had good luck with them. I just keep a spare control board, sensor packs and a TXV in a box in the store room.

[Juan Madera]

Spray foam is a vapor barrier. Why not build just the interior studs, have them spray closed cell foam and then skin? Seems to me to be workable. Plus it will be structurally attached to the existing structure. If you use the sheeting it will be a bond breaker and will not add appreciably to the vapor barrier.

[icyflame]

What will you be doing with the floor? is it concrete or wood?