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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    West Palm Beach
    Posts
    10

    Questionable Compressor?

    I checked a refrigerator compressor which according to the customer had been diagnosed as bad compressor and I found the following readings:
    Run to Start: 2.2 ohm
    Run to Common: .4 ohm
    Start to Common: 2.1 ohm
    I notice that 2.2 and 2.1 are very close could this be an indicative of a bad compressor? How could you diagnose this compressor based upon these readings?
    Thank you

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    442
    Start to run readings are very close to the sums of run to common and start to common, so I would not condemn the compressor based on those readings alone.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Chicagoland Area
    Posts
    4,628
    Did you check anything else?
    Officially, Down for the count

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    West Palm Beach
    Posts
    10
    I did not condemn the compressor either not only for the same reason sandshark mentioned, but primarily because the compressor was not receiving any voltage at all I even left the volt-meter connected to the two power lines on the back of the refrigerator while the owner was turning the timer clockwise with the screwdriver on the bottom front of the refrigerator because I was thinking that the refrigerator was probably on the defrost cycle and we heard the "click" sound several times, but the meter always read zero. It does not have any thermistors (temperature sensors) or mother board that could prevent voltage from reaching the compressor. Maybe it's the timer or the temperature control the problem What do you guys think?

  5. #5
    You did not mention the make / model of this refrigerator which would help in the diagnostics. It appears that you have a defective electical component that is preventing the compressor to start. First I would jump out the temp control followed by checking for voltage at the defrost timer, which by the way is not always present on refrigerators, then ohm out the relay.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Winnipeg, MB
    Posts
    9
    I would start by finding where you have voltage and tracing what is keeping it from the compressor. IE, make sure there is voltage entering the Unit then check the first control or switch it goes to, if that component is operating properly move to the next till you find the defective control. I would also jump the defective control out to ensure the compressor is not defective.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Deerfield Beach, FL, which is a northern suburb of Fort Lauderdale.
    Posts
    22
    The 'Start' winding looks shorted. There should be more Ohms from C-to-S than from C-to-R. The Start winding should be 90-degrees out of phase with the Main winding in order to obtain turning torque and has to have more Ohms in it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    259
    Quote Originally Posted by MIPAR View Post
    I checked a refrigerator compressor which according to the customer had been diagnosed as bad compressor and I found the following readings:
    Run to Start: 2.2 ohm
    Run to Common: .4 ohm
    Start to Common: 2.1 ohm
    I notice that 2.2 and 2.1 are very close could this be an indicative of a bad compressor? How could you diagnose this compressor based upon these readings?
    Thank you
    You are suppose to add common to start and common to run and add those numbers up which equals 2.5 ohms
    Your reading for the start to run, which is the full winding, equals 2.2 ohms. The readings don't add up. There is a .3 ohm difference. The two readings should be equal.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    1,152
    Time for a new meter and a T-stat.

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