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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    california
    Posts
    223

    12 ton trane voyager

    How much more difficult is it to troubleshoot a trane voyager rtu?? I don't have any experience with these units.. I was sent out to change an ignition board on one of these units that was diagnosed by another tech.. I installed the board and nothing operated .. Even the fan would not start on a call. The wiring diagram on the unit had no lines connecting components . Only numbers? The only thing I thinking was the main board was not sending out control voltage . Did not really feel comfortable diagnosing this unit..Had to call boss and tap out on this problem .. Might be getting fired for it.. Been at this commercial company for a couple weeks now.. Came from residential background ..

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    In the work truck
    Posts
    3,075
    IF he is firing you for calling for help on this unit, you don't want to work there long term. Coming from residential to a Voyager are complete opposite ends of the spectrum. Ive been working on Voyagers for a bit and still pull my hair out at times..

    There are test terminals on the right side of the unit. I believe TB1. You can jump them out to get the unit into the different modes of operation.

    Also how was this unit being controlled? BAS, Summit, of a conventional stat?
    Gotta have the right tool for the job!

    Where is all the stuff MADE IN THE USA?

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    658
    First things first. Check for smoke detectors in the ducts. If you look at the diagram there is a note usually indicating a place for fire alarm wiring.

    If that ain't it you can look at the electrical cover (the small door) and it will tell you how to put the unit through a test cycle. This checks heat1, 2, cool1,2, etc... In a certain order. If it will go through test with no problems then you got issues with the tstat controller. If it won't test check for smoke detectors.
    You're only as good as your customer will allow you to be.........If they want junk, sell them junk, but make your junk look neat!!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    california
    Posts
    223
    It was a regular stat.. The trouble light on the main board was steadily glowing but the light on the ignition board would not illuminate..

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Hampton Roads, Virginia
    Posts
    1,631
    There are two books you should pick up from your local Trane distributor, one covers the main control boards in Voyagers, it also covers the various sensors etc. The other book covers the heating and combustion side of things. Both well worth the money, but search hard enough on this site and you might find them, not sure if the links are still available there was some copy-write problems with the links a few years ago.


    Kevin

    Edit: Put your email in your profile, someone might send you some pdf's
    "There are 10 types of people in the world.. those who understand binary, and those who don't."

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    houston, texas
    Posts
    3,787
    How old is this unit? If it has a UCP board or an rtrm it can be put into test mode. When the jumper is connected leave it in place and the unit will cycle through all of the functions, starting with blower, economizer, y1, y2, h1 then h2 all by itself.
    I'm not tolerating Political Correctness anymore, from now on it's tell it like it is.

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Southeastern Pa
    Posts
    19,560
    The test screws where you apply the jumper are at the top of the column of screws on the right hand side of the controls section. Usually, the word "test" is right there.

    Apply the jumper, and if you have a good connection, the LED on the main board will start to blink. That means you have successfully entered test mode. The label on the unit's controls area will show you the order in which it tests the functions, starting with the economizer through second stage cooling.

    Here is a piece of advice whenever you visit one of these machines. Bring a screwdriver, and look for the copper strips used to buss together the screws in that area where you applied the jumper. ALL of the screws must be TIGHT. If one of those screws with a copper strip jumper gets loose, you will chase your tail for days trying to figure out what is wrong.

    Make sure you have power among all legs of the three phase feed, and in most cases, have a voltage to ground from each leg. Check all fuses, too. The commercial world IS a three phase world, so teach yourself all you can. Pro members have access to our educational forums.
    [Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
    2 Tim 3:16-17

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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    1,401
    If you can't get it to jump out with test pins, trace wiring to UCP board and unplug test pin plug. Jump out directly at board. I have had much better success doing it this way. Most of the test plugs I come across now are already unplugged. I too came from a residential company to commercial company about 8 years ago. Hang in there, its way better to work in commercial.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    california
    Posts
    223
    This unit had two transformers.. One was a normal 75va transformer which I was getting 24 volts from. There was also a second transformer that was massive in size that was giving me 14 volts that was on the secondary..

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Southeastern Pa
    Posts
    19,560
    Quote Originally Posted by jmiles View Post
    This unit had two transformers.. One was a normal 75va transformer which I was getting 24 volts from. There was also a second transformer that was massive in size that was giving me 14 volts that was on the secondary..

    460 volt unit?
    [Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
    2 Tim 3:16-17

    RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist

    AOP Forum Rules:







  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    california
    Posts
    223
    It was 208/3

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Posts
    6,966
    the larger TR is for the heating side and the ignition,with the stat calling for hrat you should have the Induced draft running,check the pigtail glow coil for continuity and for 115v in the pin connector.standing in front of the burner section down on the 5 O'clock position you have a HI Limit 2 wires check it for continuity fan vibration wears out capillary sensor...keeps it open.
    "when in doubt...jump it out" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1qEZHhJubY

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Lake Worth, FL
    Posts
    111
    It would be nice if you had a model and serial#.

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