There is a Trane publication called "SERVICE FACTS" which I received with my UD080R9V4K furnace/air handler. It contains much info on airflow and DIP switch settings. Probably your tech decided you did not need to have this manual, but if you ask him I bet it is available to you.
I did not see the admonition to turn off power before changing any of them, so must confess I just opened the panel and set them. I believe I was imitating what the tech did. My tech knows I did this and he seems to be not alarmed. Just concerned that I can explain what changes I made and why. One of the things I did was set Comfort-R to on, through an oversight he did not. When the duct noise was excessively loud, I set airflow to 350 cfm/ton which is recommended in humid climates.
On the second system when we learned it was really 3.0 ton rather than 3.5, I reset airflow to be 400 cfm/ton. Thru our mistake it had been running all summer at 465 cfm/ton which is not supposed to be ideal in a humid climate.
It is my opinion these changes are not controversial, however I am also very concerned about safety and not harming my equipment thru my own blunder. So far it has worked out OK, I hope it is knowledge and not just dumb luck<g>.
Hope this helps -- Pstu
Well, I just discovered that they disconnected my irrigation system when they switched out the breakers, and forgot to reconnect it. Even though I put the thing in, I lost the manual, and I've got 4 wires coming out, and don't know where they're supposed to go, or which ones are hi-volt or whatever, so I'm not going to mess with it to make sure I don't fry it.
I called the company and am awaiting a callback to schedule having them come and reconnect it. I figure I'll just have them do the dipswitches while they're here. What exactly should I say?
... that I want to limit the max pressure the blower puts out? Drop the CFM's down to 350? Check to make sure Comfort-R is enabled? Does this sound right?
As for the attitude... I suppose you think HO's should hang around forever and discuss dipswitch settings and load calculations ad nauseum once their system is up and running. Too juvenile to respond to really, but have a lovely day..."
keeping in mind that those are your words above and hoping you have a more humble attitude than what those words speak, but yes, you got the idea about what to ask the installer and they know how to check the switches and adjust the speeds.
He said they have to send someone over anyway because they need to do a test to see if the refrigerant level is correct with the lowered fan speed... otherwise it could freeze up if it has high charge, but low fan speed.
I'm assuming they're not gonna charge for this... proper setting on the fan speed is part of a proper install, right?
Oh, and they said that irrigation was disconnected because it was illegal jump into wrong size breaker... so gotta keep it disconnected for when the inspector comes.
Fan speed adjusted, coolant level chedked and adjusted.
System runs great. Thanks for all the input, guys.
Just for future reference, coolant is something that you put in car radiators. REFRIGERANT is what goes in air conditioning systems. I'm sure you'd want to use the right term.
Hmmm... level looked ok on the dipstick....
So, tell me, you now have Comfort-R on? 350 cfm per ton? What stat are you using - one with humidity control? House quieter and dryer?
Much quieter... much drier.
It did seem like it took a LONG time to fully cool the house after he dropped the cfm's... I guess I'll see tomorrow when it gets up into 90's again. I guess the drawback of having system sized toward the lower end, dropping the high fan speed, and using vari-speed, etc... is that if you have a door open or something, it can take a long time to recover the overall temp in the house. That I'm ok with, but I just want to make sure tomorrow that it doesn't struggle just trying to keep up with increasing outdoor temp.
The hotter it gets the longer the unit runs. If outdoor design temp is 95 and outdoor temp IS 95 your system may operate almost non stop while maintaining the design indoor air temp.
A good system WILL run prety much all the time on a hot day. It may cycle on and off on 2nd stage, and that's fine. Don't be one of these people who shuts the unit off at night, opens all the windows wide open when they go to bed, then the next after noon when the house is 85, and start up the A/C again.
Just set the temp and forget it. You will be happy.
Not at all... and I'm in and out all the time, so no programming on the stat. I'm fine with it running most of the time on hot days... it's doing wonders for the humidity. Humidity generally below 50% even though it's 80+ outside.
My concern... and I'll watch it today... is if it is unable to hold 75 degrees as temperature mounts outside. I noticed yesterday that it was at 77 for something like four hours. In that time, I don't know of anyone opening doors or anything in that timeframe. I know I have old leaky windows, etc... all I ask is that the system be able to comfortably hold my set temp on the stat.
Stat is the tcont803... trane's indicated stat for the 2stage and varispeed.
One thing I haven't been able to figure out is that during the period for four or more hours yesterday when it was at 77, it was running at low speeds for a good chunk of the time. I figured it was just in a ramp up or down at first, but it the temp is still off, it's supposed to hit the second stage and high speed and hold 'till it equalizes, right? So I dropped the target down to 70 just to be sure... and it still seemed like it was on low sometimes... and didn't break 75 until hours later when the sun was going down and outside temp had dropped dramatically.
... keeping an eye out today.
Like I said the other day....
"If it turns out the system is undersized you can add insulation, replace the windows, etc. That probably would be cheaper than the new duct work and will reduce your long-term operating costs. If the system is oversized you can always add a dehumidifier.
I just hate to see people guess at what they need when it only takes an hour to do a "good enough" load calc."
Sounds like you need to skip the stucco guys and start looking for insulation and window contractors.