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  1. #53
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    wedged in freezer shelf
    Posts
    6,650
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  2. #54
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,295
    I have found a lot of very interesting things when doing electrical work in the past.

  3. #55
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    25,547


    OK, guys. There's a lot of brainpower in this thread, so hopefully, you can help this dumb old fridgy out.

    I've been fighting a Hill/Phoenix case with lights that won't stay lit. That was the start of this thread.

    H/P SSGCSSN8

    Case has 2 T5 lamps in the canopy and a LongHorse LH4 (I think, didn't write it down) ballast. These have been ordered from H/P and replaced SEVERAL times.

    Latest disaster. Friday afternoon, I showed up, one of 2 lamps out. Dropped the fixture, installed new OEM ends, shrink-tubed the splices, installed NEW OEM bulbs, with sheilds and end guards, installed a NEW OEM ballast. Finished job up around 3:30PM


    Lights work, I win, right?

    Not so fast........

    According to the cutter on duty Friday night, the same lamp had burnt out again by 9PM.

    So, I was back there today. My initial thought was to order a complete new fixture, thinking that the wiring is damaged, but, after discussing it with some of the other techs, that has already been tried with NO SUCCESS!



    WHAT NOW???


  4. #56
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    In the work truck
    Posts
    2,997
    Change it to some type of LED fixture..

    You won't have to worry about bulbs for 10 years!!
    Gotta have the right tool for the job!

    Where is all the stuff MADE IN THE USA?

    "Thats what we do Troy. Incredible, Invisible, Imbelivable things. We are an Unseen, Unknown, Unvincible fraternity of craftsman.."

  5. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    25,547
    Quote Originally Posted by Pascone10
    Change it to some type of LED fixture..

    You won't have to worry about bulbs for 10 years!!
    Large corporate customer must approve.

    Not happening at this point in time. I've tried, believe me.

  6. #58
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,295
    Is line 120V or 277v also what voltage is ballast? LH4-120-L or LH4-277-L
    What is the line voltage reading from your meter without ballast connected?

    Are door seals in good shape and sealing properly? Moisture forming on tombstones causing it to short out?

    What lamps are you using? F4's, F6's, etc?

    What is the operating temp of the case?

    I'll call you tomorrow

  7. #59
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,295
    Are you jumpering the sockets? When using two T5 bulbs, you should only be using two red wires and one yellow wire from the ballast.

  8. #60
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    25,547
    Not exactly sure what all those "F"s mean.

    Ballast is a LH4-120 as you mentioned.

    Red from ballast splits into 2 wires. Both go to ONE socket on each lamp. Both of the other sockets return on 2 wires and connect to the yellow wire and ground. ***edit***. Each red lead powers one lamp via 2 wires to the same socks end.

    Medium temp (35 degrees nominally) case. No misting system, but they do shut lights off at night.

    I would consider the water thing if it didn't burn out before the lamps were ever powered off. Should have stayed warm the whole time.

    I've go a call out to local H/P rep. This turd belongs to him as far as I'm concerned.

  9. #61
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,295
    The number following the f is the wattage of the lamps.

    I'd like to believe you have some kind of line issue. If I'm reading your post correctly.

  10. #62
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,295
    Heres how the wiring should look:



    If that is all correct and you installed 4 brand new tombstones, then like I said, I would assume it's a line issue.

    Unless you are using bulbs that exceed the Ballasts Max Wattage of 70Watts
    That's why I was curious as to what F value bulbs you were using.

    The problem is:

    A: Line Issue
    B: You are exceeding your ballast wattage by using too high wattage of bulbs. Which explains why only one bulb is staying lit and the other is going out.

    Are you positive it's a 120V circuit and not a 277V?

  11. #63
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    25,547

  12. #64
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    16

    your grounded

    None of the lighting leads (yellow and red) from the ballast should be connected to ground. The metal case of the ballast does need to be grounded though. Maybe the wire containing green was intended to go to the ballast mounting screw?

    I sometimes use a volt tic (non contact tester) to check a ballast. When ballast if functional the red blue or yellow wires will set the volt tic off. if not replacing the ballast does the trick.

  13. #65
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    6,209
    Quote Originally Posted by nateneff View Post
    None of the lighting leads (yellow and red) from the ballast should be connected to ground. The metal case of the ballast does need to be grounded though. Maybe the wire containing green was intended to go to the ballast mounting screw?

    I sometimes use a volt tic (non contact tester) to check a ballast. When ballast if functional the red blue or yellow wires will set the volt tic off. if not replacing the ballast does the trick.


    None of the Fulham wiring diagrams show a grounded lamp lead.

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