Digital Psychrometer Recommendation

[johnt2_2002]

Hey guys!

Well, its that time of year where I start getting myself prepared for the upcoming cooling season.

I've been thinking of getting a digital psychrometer for quick readings. I've been using a bacharach sling for some time now.

Just starting some research on the digital units and so far the fieldpiece SRH3 looks pretty good. I'm looking for one that is reliable, and most importantly, very accurate.

Any advise on that specific device and all other recommendations welcome as well!

[Thomasg]

I got the blue Cooper box, only suggestion from me would be get one that can be inserted Into the ductwork by drilling small hole . Good luck.

[hvac wiz 79]

i have that cooper .. have had quite a few humidity probe failures & only use it now & again .... last one covered under a warranty from a replacement purchase . . . lets see how this one holds up ....

[Thomasg]

Hope mine doesn't crap out , first box I had though the humidity probe was bad 4 years ago. Can't remember don't those have like a five year warranty.

[270wsm]

I have the testo 605-H2. So far I like it. Simple to use.

[A&BHeatandcool]

i have the fieldpiece, i have had realy good luck with it and the measurements match up with the fieldpiece check me theat i have, so i guess its pretty accurate.

[spark]

I have the testo 605-H2. So far I like it. Simple to use.

I have 2 of the 605-H2's. Their nice but could be more robust. Both of the battery covers are broke on mine. I'm leaning on trying out the Fieldpiece SHR3 http://www.fieldpiece.com/psychrometers/230.

[Tech Rob]

The Fluke 971 Temperature & Humidity Meter works pretty well for me.

[rdholder]

I use a Fieldpiece SRH2 but if you need a induct the SRH3 is good one.

[ferd1942]

I've had a Fluke 971 for over a year, I always believed its dry bulb readings were accurate, but I never had a high degree of confidence in its RH readings. The small printed notice packed with it warned that it was not for use outdoors. I emailed Fluke for clarification (OK to use inside a home with some windows open? OK to use in a vented crawl space? OK to transport the 971 in a vehicle? Etc.), wasn't happy with the response. The final straw came in a data center supplied by five Liebert units: The Lieberts' return sensors indicated 69 or 70F and 40 to 45%; the Fluke showed 71.5F and 37% in the room, 10 to 15% less moisture than the Leiberts indicated. It's now gathering dust on my desk. I was going to buy a GE Psychlone ($400), but maybe I'll try the SRH2 instead. Thanks for the tip!

[danielworkerbee]

I have used the 'Mannix' brand for about 9 years with no failures, nice and thin so you can put it in the airfilter slot and cover to get the return air reading not the basement air.
I added a string to get it back out of the slot.
luck dan

[mark beiser]

The problem with the Fluke 971, and most other digital temp/humidity meters, and even sling psychrometers, is that they are USELESS for getting evaporator entering air WB temperature readings on systems with ducted returns, and for getting supply air DB/WB readings on any system.
Because of this limitation with them, they are useless for checking the performance of HVAC equipment, or getting the readings needed for calculating the target superheat for fixed metered systems.

I've been using Testo H2 humidity sticks for years, as they can be inserted through a 1/2" test hole drilled just before the indoor coil, and in the supply after the coil.
As previously mentioned, the battery door on the H2 tends to fall off, and is easily broken, so the first thing that should be done after removing it from the packaging is to tape the battery door on.
I've come to view the H2 as a "consumable" that has to be replaced every year, as they tend to stop working after 1 to 2 years.

I've been interested in the Cooper setup, but the bulky box wouldn't work well with how I set up my tool bag, and apparently the humidity probes are not any more long lived than the Testo H2.

The new Fieldpiece SHR3, especially the accessory head version of it with the wireless setup, has my interest at this time, but I've been taking a bit of a wait and see position since it hasn't been in the field long enough to know its reliability.

[tostaos]

As previously mentioned, the battery door on the H2 tends to fall off, and is easily broken, so the first thing that should be done after removing it from the packaging is to tape the battery door on.

I preferred the first generation but lost (stolen) that one after 3 years of use.
With taping the battery door on, they are actually quite sturdy, better than what you would think off when you just look at them.
Wish they would make them in a different colors than black, they are easy to forget in the ducts and cause an extra trip back to the job.