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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    70
    The most problems I've had with these pans were where the ring terminal attached (screwed) to the element, burning off. Always tried to replace with hi temp ring connectors.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Huntingdon, PA
    Posts
    8
    I have worked on many steam tables and found that the T-stat not opening is the cause of wire terminals burning off or elements burning up. Most units do not have any safeties, so they will stay in the heat cycle till the weakest link fails. I would check to see if t-stat is cycling properly. Also they are usually insulated underneath and if thats gone, you may not be sensing the proper temps at your t-stat bulb due to air infiltration.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    459

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by striper68 View Post
    I have worked on many steam tables and found that the T-stat not opening is the cause of wire terminals burning off or elements burning up. Most units do not have any safeties, so they will stay in the heat cycle till the weakest link fails. I would check to see if t-stat is cycling properly. Also they are usually insulated underneath and if thats gone, you may not be sensing the proper temps at your t-stat bulb due to air infiltration.
    Excellent points.
    With your chrome heart shining in the sun, long may you run.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,295
    I do a lot of Kitchen equipment service. I typically see problems where the element is under rated for the line voltage supplying it. All these elements are rated for different wattages. I bet they have the incorrect element for the application, causing it to continually burn out. I have also ran into the same problems striper has run into.

    On these Pan heaters there are no safeties, as he stated. So, it continues to heat until it burns a wire off of the terminal. Usually the closest one to the heating element is the victim.

    Also, make sure the sensing bulb is in the correct location. THIS IS CRUCIAL!

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    NE Alabama
    Posts
    301
    It sounds like they could be Wells units and they are accessible from the bottom and the high limit is a bi-metal switch attached to one end of the element. The bi-metal switch does fail and causes the wire to burn off at the terminal. There are many configurations and many incoming voltage ratings controlled in many different ways, and only by following the path can you discern the difference. The old adage "never assume" is the axiom to be followed here. There are infinite switch controls and temp probe controls and others and when you follow the path of electrical current and Amp draw you will find the break.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    13,226

    Finally - A Report ! <g>

    I have been in schedule-conflict with the new kitchen-boss woman (who is really stunning - even with no makeup and in kitchen whites. Blond, slim/athletic, late 20's) but yesterday I finally got back tuit.

    The elements are in a galvanized 'pan' under the fixed-in-place water pans. Four nuts on studs hold them up in place. Inside the galvanized pans are three sheet-metal element-supports holding up a 7" by 14" rectangle of cal-rod heater - like a defrost heater.

    The sensing bulb from the stat is held in the center of the galvanized pan - up on a bracket.

    There is some light fuzzy fragile insulation laying in the bottom of the pans although some had grooves melted into it from be in contact with the elements. Oh: and one pan had the insulation OVER the element.

    One element was still heating.

    Two had a terminal end burned off at the element screw. I replaced those, cleaned the element's mounting tabs, and assembled the connections with Never Seize in the crimps and also on the actual screw connections.

    Two of them had electrically-open elements. The working elements draw 4.8 amps at 203 volts. So I guess they are 10,000 watt elements.

    Where can I source these elements?

    Although maybe I can just get close with a straight universal-fit defrost heater and then bend it into the correct shape. What do you all do?

    There are no names or tags anywhere on this entire unit.
    PHM
    --------
    The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of thinking.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    459
    With your chrome heart shining in the sun, long may you run.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,295
    If you could take a pic of the units controls and such we might be able to give you a better idea of what brand you are looking at.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    las vegas, nevada
    Posts
    12
    I say check your Tstat how high does it go? or add a limit switch to cut out a certain temp

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    13,226

    What I wanted was defrost elements

    What I wanted to use was some same-wattage defrost elements as they have factory attached wires leading away - so the electrical connections can be made where there is no heat.

    But the customer found that they had obtained extra (spare) elements the last time the elements were replaced - as they had been failing on a monthly basis. These were the original style with the screw/bolt-connected terminal ends. So I assembled them with hi-temp Never Seize on the screw terminals and so far (how long has it been?) all is well.

    The 1000 watt (I think) defrost elements would be better I think. If these ever fail again that is what I will use. There is no high limit on this table. Just the operating stat attached to the bottom center of each water pan.
    PHM
    --------
    The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of thinking.

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