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  1. #40
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    24,933
    Quote Originally Posted by mizzterclean

    Agreed. I never rely on sight glass to set charge only finish off once proper receiver level set. Very easy to overcharge system using sight glass only especially when dealing with high ambient temps.
    Then you've never gotten it right, friend.

    If the sightglass is not clear, you have not proven a proper liquid seal in the receiver, nor have you proven a solid column of liquid to the TXV.

    For a typical, conventional system with a receiver and a sightglass, charge to clear the glass, then add any required flooding charge as needed.

    It is as simple as that.

  2. #41
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Mid-Mo
    Posts
    3,419
    Quote Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm View Post
    Then you've never gotten it right, friend.

    If the sightglass is not clear, you have not proven a proper liquid seal in the receiver, nor have you proven a solid column of liquid to the TXV.

    For a typical, conventional system with a receiver and a sightglass, charge to clear the glass, then add any required flooding charge as needed.

    It is as simple as that.
    Jp you're not gonna throw down your link to the sporlan site to how to properly charge a headmaster? Or was it a Copeland bulletin?

  3. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Scottsdale,AZ
    Posts
    78
    Quote Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm View Post
    Then you've never gotten it right, friend.

    If the sightglass is not clear, you have not proven a proper liquid seal in the receiver, nor have you proven a solid column of liquid to the TXV.

    For a typical, conventional system with a receiver and a sightglass, charge to clear the glass, then add any required flooding charge as needed.

    It is as simple as that.
    If you charge to clear glass with a 65 degree box and then valves throttle down as box reaches temp you're going to stack.liquid and.end.up with high receiver level. My experience may come from 120-130 rooftops in summer and 30's in coldest winter but this is what works for us. Of course you have to have clear sight glass that is not what is being debated just how we get to the same end result.

  4. #43
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    4,365
    Quote Originally Posted by mizzterclean View Post
    If you charge to clear glass with a 65 degree box and then valves throttle down as box reaches temp you're going to stack.liquid and.end.up with high receiver level. My experience may come from 120-130 rooftops in summer and 30's in coldest winter but this is what works for us. Of course you have to have clear sight glass that is not what is being debated just how we get to the same end result.
    same if you have a walk in with a serious restriction in the tev. you clear that glass & even think about adding winter charge you will shut off on high head before you pump down.

  5. #44
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    24,933
    Quote Originally Posted by mizzterclean View Post
    If you charge to clear glass with a 65 degree box and then valves throttle down as box reaches temp you're going to stack.liquid and.end.up with high receiver level. My experience may come from 120-130 rooftops in summer and 30's in coldest winter but this is what works for us. Of course you have to have clear sight glass that is not what is being debated just how we get to the same end result.
    Then you watch the unit until it reaches temp.

    This is the only way to properly charge this unit. Especially if it is an outdoor unit with a headmaster.

  6. #45
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    24,933
    Quote Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm View Post
    This is completely incorrect.

    You MUST maintain a liquid seal in the receiver AT ALL TIMES!


    If you do not have a liquid seal, then you are undercharged.

    http://www.sporlanonline.com/90-30-1.htm

    Please stop such disinformation.
    Quote Originally Posted by ryan1088 View Post
    Jp you're not gonna throw down your link to the sporlan site to how to properly charge a headmaster? Or was it a Copeland bulletin?
    Already did.




    This should be laminated and put in EVERY refrigeration service truck.

  7. #46
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Chicagoland Area
    Posts
    4,295
    So...What's the verdict?
    Officially, Down for the count

    YOU HAVE TO GET OFF YOUR ASS TO GET ON YOUR FEET

    It was working when I left...
    Liberalism-Ideas so good they mandate them

  8. #47
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    58
    kink.... LOL... Once I got to the place early morning I put unit back and to see whats it doin...

    Same thing as I left it over the weekend.. Low pressure 15 high side 120... My reciver was hot so was my headmaster. I didnt want to mess with headmaster cuz i am not very fimiliar with it any way... I pumped down all my refrigerent into reciver and fixed that kink... Once I finished with my leak check and vaccum I put it back on.. Low side 40 high side 130... I charged my unit until my sight glass is clear and my high side was 180 and my low side is 55.. My abient was 70. BUT I DONT KNOW IF I DID FIX THE ISSUE... I checked all my electrical components.. capacitors .... My #3 wire on compressor is still reading 5.. all other onces are 14... My reciver was not hot nor my headmaster was... I am getting hot air from condensor.. I hope i dont get a call back LOL..

  9. #48
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    24,933
    Quote Originally Posted by otto8
    kink.... LOL... Once I got to the place early morning I put unit back and to see whats it doin...

    Same thing as I left it over the weekend.. Low pressure 15 high side 120... My reciver was hot so was my headmaster. I didnt want to mess with headmaster cuz i am not very fimiliar with it any way... I pumped down all my refrigerent into reciver and fixed that kink... Once I finished with my leak check and vaccum I put it back on.. Low side 40 high side 130... I charged my unit until my sight glass is clear and my high side was 180 and my low side is 55.. My abient was 70. BUT I DONT KNOW IF I DID FIX THE ISSUE... I checked all my electrical components.. capacitors .... My #3 wire on compressor is still reading 5.. all other onces are 14... My reciver was not hot nor my headmaster was... I am getting hot air from condensor.. I hope i dont get a call back LOL..
    You MUST add the proper flooding charge to consider it completely fixed.

    I posted Sporlan's 90-30-1 earlier in this thread.

    Print it, laminate it, learn it, live it.

  10. #49
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    24,933

  11. #50
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    1,120
    Add some refrigerant to it, depending on how much the system holds, or if no data plate guess at it, then check out other stuff IMO. Week compressors, bad head masters are the most common problems I have seen, very rarely expansion valves. I like to use a scale to c how much freezon I'm a usen, kinda gives ya a round about. Ya never know what folks have done, sizeing and all, correct compressors with the evaps and temps it is to maintain. Seen a cooler compressor on a WIF this morning, glad its someones else's problem. I will say this usually a compressor is good if its a runnen, but everynow and then ya get one thats just not pumping to its capacity or is free wheelen,(broke crank), you'll c a lot if ya do this stuff enough. When free wheelen you'll have no pumping what so ever and week compressor is high suction and low head pressure, but ya never know, I have been doing this type of work for 12 year and c something new quite often, it keeps me interested to say the least.
    There are three signs of old age.
    The first is your loss of memory,
    the other two I forget.


  12. #51
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    435
    Awesome, dude. Glad you got it going. Thanks for posting back.

    BTW, where was this kink?

  13. #52
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    pensacola fl.
    Posts
    88
    Quote Originally Posted by otto8 View Post
    I dont want to be parts changer. I would like to get this the fist time I go back to this service call on monday.

    Call from Philips 66 Gas Station. Reason for call: Walk in cooler warm. I will try to give you guys as much details as I can....

    When I arrived the first thing i check was my temp inside the walk in cooler. Temp is 65. I got two evap and each one got txv on it. Now that I know what I got inside I went outside to see my condensor. Everything is working but my suction line is not cold and my discharge is warm. Put my gauges on and found my suction at 20 psi and discharge at 120 psi. Looked at my sight glass and found it with lot of bubbes. I got excited I thought I know it was low on refrigerant. Put some R22 and watch my sight glass until it got all clear....My discharge pressure was still at 120..... So know I think I got restriction somewhere on my discharge line.. Hmm maybe txv or filter drier or maybe head master.... Checked my amps.. Three phase.. Check each wire to the compressor. one is 12. two 11 three 5....Hmm What else can i check.. oh yes let me see that txvs.. Put all the refrigerant in my reciver and checked my txvs.. I found the screens on txv half black and some small particals in it... Used my nitrogen to clean them out.. I can see through the screen. I think they are okay...Closed everything up. Recover all the refrigerant and pressurized it with nitrogen. NO LEAK. Pulled vaccum to 400 microns. New filter and refrigerant.... Charged the unit again.. Same issue my discharge is at 120 psi... What else can I do when I go back.. Possible kinck somewhere?? Compresor is bad... Never had to change headmaster before. Could this be possibilty??
    Just saying for example, if the head master (LAC) is good, there should be no way that you can get a clear sight glass without head press. increasing. A clear sight glass and proper head are inseparable.

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