Need some help:(

[R123]

I sure hope not !!!!
This chiller is two months old , it cost a lot of money to buy and install . You need to call Trane and be sure that the tech that you get is familiar with the RTHD and how to check and set up the condenser water control properly
The tech must also know how to perform oil recovery and get the chiller going WITHOUT ADDING OIL !!!!!!! Adding oil will make only the situation worse .
There is also a specific test to check if the gas pump is working correctly , has this test been performed , just because the solenoids are sequencing doesnt mean its working .

It sounds to me like your trying to be cheap and not involve the services of a qualified service tech ..if this is the case then you better place the order now for a new compressor now ..

I ran into a similar situation where the chiller tripped on loss of oil and the tech added oil to get it back online.....which made it worse....which caused the tech to add more oil.....which made even more worse....and so on.....until the chiller wouldn't run at all. the customer finally called Trane. When I got there, I removed 5 gallons of oil to get the level where it was supposed to be. Which took a while cause I could only remove a gallon at a time, and run it again to return the oil to the sump. And so on. The nameplate oil charge was 5 gallons, so they had double the charge..

That's why I asked if anybody added oil.

[always looking]

I've got a system like yours with three RTHDs running on direct well water so entering temp is around 52 -55 all the time. Condenser reg valve needs to be set up properly through Techview and system should run fine. Minimum and max voltages to the valve will need to be set and you will want some condenser pre-run time of a minute or so. Trane should know how to set this up and should do it for you.

[zw17]

I can't tell you how thrilled I am to see free technical info for a guest member and engineering bulletins to boot.

Use your head people.

How about one of you drive over and fix his chiller for free?

[Pat A/C]

Okan after getting the conversion to psi and degree F thanks to screwit there are a few procedures that u need to do when trouble shooting and start with.

Step 1 u need the design sheet
Step2. Need to check if u have the proper water temps ,and GPM at the inlet of the evap and cond,if u do not have the proper temps or GPM that needs to be the first thing to correct ,if u start with anything else u will be chasing after ur tail (that is why the trane tech told to start with good water temps at the cond)
with the water temps u supplied there seems to be a indication that either u have to much GPM on the cond or not enough GPM on the evap
The reason I say that is because rule of thumb u should always have about the same water td on evap and cond

The high side pressure should be around 90 to 100 degree F cond saturation, the way I understood ur valve is controlled by only freon differential it really does not care how much the high side pressure is at,like mentioned by others u need a valve and control the proper water temps at the inlet of the cond

The other thing of what u have described this chiller never seems to run at 100 percent is it over sized does it do lots of stops and starts this does not help for the oil return and the fact that there could be times that entering water at cond could actual be colder then entering water at evaporated is also not good and does the pump for the cond come on right before the chiller comes on cond pump should only come on when the chiller has a demand and off when no demand

There could be a chance something else is wrong with the chiller like the gas pump but need to start with good water temp and GPM at cond and evap